2001 v70 t5 cam pulley position

[belskee]

Contactless sensor is on the way along with the housing gasket, will update results as soon as.

Mrjay am I right in assuming you changed the belt/tensioner and idler due to the bad vibration?

Do you know at all if the timing was right before the belt change and did you lock the crank as well as the cams to ensure true tdc?

How bad is the vibration? ie. Is it rapid like you'd get from a set of hair clippers or is it slowish but really jumpy like sitting on a traktor?

If its more like the traktor you might want to start thinking about conrods, if one bends it can cause bad vibrations but from experience the engine wont run well at all and will die quite shortly, you say the engine runs so is the vibration at idle or under load?

As much info on the vibration would be helpful

[SuperHerman]

A suggestion for your Contactless Sensor rebuild: The tabs that need to be soldered can break loose after soldering (one person posted he had this problem) so I suggest you wrap them before soldering with very thin copper or similar wire before hitting them with the solder iron. Make sure any wire used is not coated or the solder will not stick. You need to use thin wire, like sewing thread thickness. This will keep them together and prevent them separating - the original build appears to have been spot welded. Room is tight, but if you take your time it is not that bad. Just wrap the wire around a number of turns to keep the tabs touching together - the solder will cover the wrapped wire and fill all gaps.

After I rebuilt mine I had to laugh at how well the car drove - it was like I had a different car. I did not know how bad the old one, which was replaced once, was until the rebuild. I had no CELs, just a hesitation and a slight throttle surge at idle.

[mrjay62]

Hello Guys.

To answer the 1st question, The belts were replaced because intake cam seal blew as I got to the top of my driveway. Oil on everything! The vibration/roughness i felt in the steering wheel/cabin was always there just not as bad as it is now.
So since I was going to repair that, I replaced all the cam seals all the vacuum lines,Fire trap, intake manifold gasket,fuel injectors filters and O rings, engine oil and filter,Fuel filter.timing belt and both pulleys.
And yes while it was apart I removed the starter to install the crank shaft locking tool as I did the cams too.. marked everything on the cams around the bolts timing marks front and back to the cam cover...Before I took the old belt off getting the new belt to slide on thats where at all went bad.Belt wouldnt go back on unless I was one tooth off to the left or right on the exhaust cam.
best I can do is what u see in the last pictures I posted....

Now what the heck am I suppose to wrap wire around a solder?

[SuperHerman]

User Belskee was going to put in a Contactless sensor on his ETM - looks like he hijacked your thread - my response was a recommendation to him on rebuilding the ETM.

[mrjay62]

lol. Ok that makes sense Now.......I'll have to look it up I may need to know that too one day...

thanks
Jay

[belskee]

Ok I'll keep the wire wrap in mind thanks, and sorry mrjay wasn't my intension to highjack your thread I was actually just updating my earlier threads which was starting to lead on to a new topic on the electronic throttle body.

Jay from what I learned doing my belt change the cvvt works through oil pressure, if all your other marks line up except on the cvvt it would suggest to me that it could need resetting/aligning, this is covered earlir in the post and and really helped me doing mine, my exhaust cam's timing mark was in a similar position though I wasn't having any vibrations

[mrjay62]

Thanks belskss.
But I tried it All , not matter what I did with the VVT and sprocket im always one tooth off, either a tooth to left or right of the timing mark. In the last pictures I posted thats the closest I can get it. Runs the same if its one tooth off ahead or behind the timing mark.. lining it up is easy getting the belt on is where I have to rotate the cam or sprocket to get it to fit. Old gates belt works a little better new continetal belt off one tooth, same with new gates belt..
Im going to just run her as is hopefully after its all warms up it will some how work itself smooth....lol. hey it can happen... !

thanks
Jay

[belskee]

It is a bit odd, just throwing ideas about but are you sure it's the right belt? Can you get the marks to line up without the belt on? Also if the cvvt unit isn't set right the engine management should light up, are you able to retrieve any fault codes?

[mrjay62]

Hi
As far as the belt yes its the right one, I even bought another brand (Gates) to see if that would make a difference. It didnt.... there all the same size teeth spacing is the same.
Seting the cvvt is easy, lining up the 3 timing marks is easy also..
No codes no engine lights.
I bought a vida/dice.. but 2014a wont work on xp pro.. from what I found I need 2013d thats what im looking for now...
Thanks
Jay

[belskee]

Definetly the way to go I got a cheep elm obd reader which has helped, though I had some confusion diagnosing the codes I was getting, the chaps on here cleared that right up and were spot on.

I've fitted a contactless sensor now to my etm and though it took about 4 hours start to finish I couldn't be happier with the results, I will also however be going for the vida dice as well as its an important tool for these cars, be handy if they were fitted into the dashboards as standard.

Anyhow good luck with finding/fixing your vibration issue im sure someone on here can provide you with with some good ideas as to what could be causing it, also please could you update if and when you find out what the problem is, im quite interested as to what it could be as im sure others are too, thanks jim