New How-To: Install Spark Plugs 850/S70/V70/C70

[paul_b]

The tutorial is great, but I ran into a problem. My 2000 V70 has the rectangular coil, and does not have the nice thick single cable, but has several wires to each coil surrounded by a black plastic wire organizer. Unfortunately the wire organizer has degraded and breaks into small pieces at the lightest touch. So, I have factory installed 'crud' waiting to fall into the plug well and into the cylinder if the plug is out.

My approach, after noticing the bits, was to use a compressor to blow the crud off the top. Then for each plug blow out each well before removing the plug. Then carefully replace the plug. Also, after the first pass of blowing the crud off I noticed that the timing belt is exposed with the cover off, I was more careful after that. The plastic was so degraded that compressed air broke pieces off, there is very little remaining. It appeared that this was not a new problem. Last plug change was by a Volvo dealer, plug 4 had some corrosion like residue.

Status: after replacing the plugs and putting the covers back on the car started and ran well (for the 15 minutes I ran it).

Question: Any thoughts about the degraded wire organizers? Can I leave the wires loose? If replacing is necessary, any suggestions for better quality? They seem to be made from the same plastic as surround wire runs in the engine compartment. They plastic is just not up to the heat from contact with the engine block and no airflow under the cover.

My default is to leave it as is for now. Replace with new, automotive grade wire organizer in the near future. Buying new plug wires is not in the budget now.

Thanks, Paul

[jblackburn]

Mine is all degraded too on my injector wires.

I would suggest getting some heat shrink tubing and putting it around the wire bundles.

[KlubMarcus]

Some more pictures to supplemental earlier posts from a 1998 V70 XC spark plug change.

Volvo OEM spark plugs for turbo models, gapped 0.03" just like the manual says.

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Dielectric grease and anti-seize lubricant for high temp applications.

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Torque wrench, ratchet, small flat-blade screwdriver, flex-joint, ratchet extension, and spark plug socket.

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There are plastic spark plug wire guides that come off by hand. This one unsnaps using a small flat-blade screwdriver.

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This guide is marked 1-5 to correspond with the spark plug wires and helps keep the wires off the engine block.

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Here are all the plastic guides taken off the spark plug wires.

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Using the shop vac to suck out debris before removing the old spark plug. I also vacuum after removing the plug as a precaution.

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Removing old spark plug at #1 cylinder using ratchet, extension, and flex-joint. Turn the spark plug socket slowly to avoid stripping threads.

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This spark plug socket has a rubber insert that prevents the plug from dropping back into the hole.

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Old and new spark plug side-by-side. This is after 25K miles, should've changed at 20k intervals instead.

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Wipe anti-seize lubricant on threads only. Use a shop towel to wipe lubricant off the electrodes.

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Place new lubricated spark plug onto socket and carefully thread into cylinder until snug.

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Use torque wrench to tighten to 18.4 ft. lbs. +/- 3.7 ft. lbs. (I set it at 22).

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Lubricate spark plug wire boot, especially on the interior where it will contact the white ceramic when inserted. Do not get any on the metal contact inside.

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Spark plug gap gauge and old plugs lined up 1-5. The infamous #3 plug has the most carbon, probably because it's in the center and hottest part of engine.

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[cartagena]

I found that using E3 spark plugs provided a better oomph for my V70 compared to the other brands and no need to gap. Also it gave me an indication of what kind of shape the engine would be in when I replaced them. Spark plugs are like teeth, if they aren't clean its gonna be some expensive specialist work to bring it up to a shine again.

[geokilla]

Do we need anti-seize lubricant? My spark plugs are long overdue and I don't have any anti-seize lubricants. I think I'm near 80k km on them. Have to double check to make sure.

[abscate]

You can touch the threads to the dipstick to put a drop of oil in the threads and keep them from seizing up. Important if you are running the fancy plugs with 100,000 mile intervals

[mecheng]

Always use some kind of lube when steel threads into aluminum or you will get galling. Oil is better than nothing but will likely dry up or get burnt off. Invest in anti seize and use on all service bolts and you will save yourself lots of headaches. It works by leaving small pieces of nickel or copper on the threads

[Ringo]

How often do you folks replace your spark plugs if not experiencing misfires? Are there signs it's time?
What might do new plugs do for mileage or performance?
thanks, Steve

[abscate]

I run Bosch copper plugs for 30k miles. I regap them at 15k. My turbo models usually need adjustment , my NA models do not. I get my replacememt plugs free from FCP

[Ringo]

thanks for the quick reply Abacate.
Regarding Bosch copper for a turbo are you just solidly old school or cheap like me? Or do you not think the OEM Platinum are no better? I have a turbo XC70. Also what gap do you set and does it change and get larger (or smaller) ? I intend on buying from FCP - because I'm cheap! (but also because FCP are great folks)