1996 GLT Wagon: Parking brake keeps loosening up

[s2zeller]

When repairing a tire on the passenger rear wheel, I found that the parking/emergency brake was not holding at all. The same problem was noted for both rears.

After loosening the interior brake adjustment bolt, I popped both wheels off and adjusted the star wheels until both were tight, then backed off until the hub spun sort of freely (about 6-7 notches). I am a little unclear about what 'freely' means as there was some grinding (like rust being powdered) sound as I spun each around and I don't know how many revolutions (any?) are supposed to occur after I stop spinning it. So, maybe I left that adjustment too loose.

In any event, I then re-tightened the interior bolt until the brakes would not let me move the car either way when in neutral (about 5-6 clicks).

The next day, I parked on a bit of an incline to test my work, applied the e-brake, and it didn't hold at all.

I tightened the interior bolt again, and it later did the same thing.

Now, I am recovering from a shoulder injury but I'm pretty sure that the wheels were being held after each adjustment.

Does the parking brake loosening up point to a different problem?

[renns]

I've never had great luck with the 70-series e-brakes. For best results I loosen the interior adjustment, snug up the adjusters at the wheels until the brakes drag a bit, cycle the brake lever a few times, re-tighten at the wheel, and repeat if needed until all slack is out of the system and the shoes are just dragging slightly. That seems to work best, then allowing the interior adjustment to be tightened as the shoes wear. When working properly, the e-brake will hold tight with only 3-4 clicks at most. Unfortunately I rarely get more than a few weeks with it working like that before adjustment is needed. Having teenagers driving might have something to do with it, though!

[s2zeller]

I have two teenagers, both of which have driven considerable distances with the e-brake on (tho' the pads on the one I pulled the brake disc on looked dine). They also pull the brake lever as high as they can. Now that both are off to college, I'll have to see if a better adjustment per your instructions holds for any length of time.

Part of the reason I was not adjusting too tight is that the car has been getting poor gas mileage (again, possibly due to teens) so I was concerned that the brakes had been sticking.

[RussB]

Time to pull the rear calipers and rotors and inspect the e-brakes. I'll wager there's little to no shoe left

[abscate]

You are adjusting too loose, laTrec.

Turn the adjusters until the wheel locks, the back off 2-3,clicks max. If you get hit brakes after that, you need to open up the wheel and put things right inside.

[scot850]

Time for some proper maintenance. Remove the rear calipers and rotors, and have a good look at the condition of the parking brake hardware. Check the inside of the 'drum' for the parking brake shoes and look for scoring and if the surface is shiny where the shoes contact. Use a good brake cleaner (wear a mask) and thoroughly clean the inside of the drum. Then take some fine wet/dry paper and gently rub the surface of the contact area of the drum, and scuff the surface.

Likewise, check the shoes and make sure they are not contaminated, and again using a slightly more abrasive paper scuff their surface to remove shiny area. Also check the shoes are firmly attached to the backing of the shoe and all the retaining clips are sound and in place.

Next turn to the parking brake cables and with a helper pull the parking brake lever on and release and see if the cables are moving and releasing.

Finally, as abscate the wise says, refit the rear rotors and calipers, and adjust the parking brake adjuster at the wheels until they fully lock, and then back of 2-3 (but no more than 4) clicks both sides and then adjust at the lever in the center console until you get a lever going tight after 3-4 clicks.

Your brakes should then be good. If you are having to constantly adjust there is something wrong with the parking brake hardware. Also check junior is not trying handbrake turns with the car as this will damage the cables and hardware. This is a Parking brake and not a handbrake!

Also a point to note. If I recall, Volvo had a procedure to clean the parking brakes by driving the car about 400 yards with the brake on (or mostly on) to clean the surface of the shoes and drums of any build up.

If the parking brakes are dragging (not releasing correctly) they wear the shoes down quickly and leave a lot of dust in the drum area to act as a lubricant dust preventing the system working correctly.

Neil.

[abscate]

If you have let the parking brake get way out of adjustment, as many P80 owners fo by adjusting at the lever instead of the shoes, your might need to

Back off the cables at the lever.
Adjust shoes per above.
Readjust at lever
Apply brakes firmly to re center
Readjust brakes at wheel.

All the work adjusting brakes is getting the wheels up safely. Once you do that its EZ PZ. It does help,to sight the star wheel with a flashlight so you can see what you are doing too.

If you haven't replaced your e-brake shoes on your 17+ year old car, that's another thing to consider as they run about 35 usd.

Of all my stick shift cars my Volvos have the best ebrakes, much better than the disc caliper versions on my VWs

[s2zeller]

Thanks much to all who have offered this great advice... haven't had time to check the thread much less work on the car (getting said daughter off to college).

Certain that she didn't use e-brake as handbrake, but I do know she drove at least 400 yards with it on full over a year ago.

The interesting thing (and she noticed a month ago when coming back from a trip away) is that at least one side is (very) stuck (e-brake handle down and off) after the car sits a week+. She managed to unstick it by backing vigorously out of the garage, but I didn't need to go anywhere with that car so I left it for the time being.

So, either not holding or holding too well.

[QuirkySwede]

The interesting thing (and she noticed a month ago when coming back from a trip away) is that at least one side is (very) stuck (e-brake handle down and off) after the car sits a week+. She managed to unstick it by backing vigorously out of the garage, but I didn't need to go anywhere with that car so I left it for the time being. So, either not holding or holding too well.

Your brake shoes and or brake cable(s) are shot. When the outer cable sheath goes (angle kink, no longer a bend), the inner swells and doesn't allow the shoes to retract so they drag, heats up the drumdisk, lowers MPG. I'll bet you one of your own beers the right rear brake cable (can see it laying down next to the car with a flashlight) is dead. Replace the shoes, replace any dead or dying cables, and then clean, service and set the e-brake system.

For photos see: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=61043[/quote]

[s2zeller]

Thanks for the link... that would definitely explain the poor gas mileage we've been seeing... 16 mpg during the summer ).