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DIY T-45 Stubby Bit Socket for Timing Belt Tensioner

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
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Carboncopy
Posts: 43
Joined: 9 February 2015
Year and Model: 1994 Volvo 850 GLE
Location: Canada

DIY T-45 Stubby Bit Socket for Timing Belt Tensioner

Post by Carboncopy »

Mod note - applies to -1998 models, I believe ME7 cars use an M10 Hex tensioner bolt

Hi all,

I have never really seen a write up on how to make one of these, so I thought I would do one. Yes, you can just go buy a lisle brake torx set that has one, but I have never been able to find one of those sets locally. So here we go...

1. Buy, borrow or steal yourself a decent quality T-45 bit socket in 3/8ths drive. I don't know if I would use Princess Auto/Harbor freight bits, I would go slightly higher quality and get a bit from mastercraft, powerbuilt or another ok quality manufacturer.

2. Get the hammer of your choice, a pin punch of a roughly similar diameter to the bit in the socket and something to hold the socket while your hitting it. (I used a old spring seat that I had pulled out of the car a few days before, worked perfect but I am sure most people have a bench vise that would do the same thing).
IMG_0325.jpg
IMG_0319.jpg
3. Hammer the bottom of the bit by placing the punch in the drive socket. This might take a bit of effort, it took me getting a bigger hammer to get the bit and socket separated.

4. Once you have the bit separated from the socket, you now need to cut the bit down to size. You want to take just over half of the shank of the bit off, leaving you with something like pictured below. You can do this most effectively with something like an angle grinder, but make sure that as you cut, you dip the bit in water often to stop it from losing its temper and becoming softer then the bolt your trying to get out.
IMG_0323.jpg
5. Once you have your cut down bit, mount it back in its socket using the adhesive of your choice. Voila! Now you have your very own short t-45 to get that lovely tensioner bolt out.
IMG_0324.jpg
Hope this helps!

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rspi
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Post by rspi »

Interesting.
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
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Ozark Lee
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Post by Ozark Lee »

I usually just slip a box end wrench over the shank to bust them loose but this is clever.

...Lee
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erikv11
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Post by erikv11 »

Agreed, this is a nice tool.

But for simplicity, I will stick with the L-shaped torx. You can get a set for cheap from any auto parts store and it always works great for the tensioner, right out of the box. Occasionally I find myself using the other sizes too when I don't have the quality bit set handy, you can just grab the set it travels well.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
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JimBee
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Post by JimBee »

That's one way to do it. I like making a tool once in while if I really need it and have one of those increasingly rare "timeless summer days".
But I think I have the one that Lisle now brands, used to be branded Pittsburgh and available at Harbor Freight. With a smallish 3/8 drive breaker it fits just right in there.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/380999521141

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dosbricks
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Post by dosbricks »

It never occurred to me to try driving out a press fit like that. Nicely innovative, Carboncopy.

I had a Lisle, but a couple of its Torx tooths broke off. Amazingly the shallow bolt head was undamaged.
So I bought a stubby T45 from the MAC tool truck for $30--Ouch! :|
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Carboncopy
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Post by Carboncopy »

I have never had much luck with the cheap L-shaped torx keys,they seem to always slip and/or strip out the bolt. My frustration with my set is actually what motivated me to come up with this alternative.

cn90
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Post by cn90 »

L-shape Torx key works fine as long as :
- L hand pressing it in (so it does not slip), and R hand turning it.
- For TB Pulley T45 bolt, I used a 2-foot pipe over the L-shape Torx key, worked great. I posted the photo in the TB DIY thread.
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

Carboncopy
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Post by Carboncopy »

I have tried the exact way your describing on two different cars, never had it work for me. Its probably just my set of keys though (they are cheap mastercraft ones that probably aren't shaped quite right).

cn90
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Post by cn90 »

Sometimes we fret over $10-$15, but this serpentine belt tool is worth every penny.
It is $16 at Harbor Freight.
It is flat and allows access in tight space.
I don't even regret one bit buying this tool at Harbor Freight (Sears has it too):

http://www.harborfreight.com/serpentine ... 66344.html
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

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