1998 S70 Rear caliper bleeder screw

JRev · Post by **JRev** » 30 Aug 2015, 04:03

There appears to be a variety of bleeder screw sizes and I'm going to try and replace the bleeder screw on my rear caliper.

Is this the correct size for the rear?

http://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts/br ... e/1027790/

M10 x 1, metric thread, length 36mm?

Post by **dosbricks** » 30 Aug 2015, 08:45

No specs on this Volvo one but that looks the same as the OE, so ought to fit. IMHO, the Volvo screw will be made out of better steel and less likely to round off or shear off.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... w-30665014

JRev · Post by **JRev** » 30 Aug 2015, 09:02

dosbricks wrote:No specs on this Volvo one but that looks the same as the OE, so ought to fit. IMHO, the Volvo screw will be made out of better steel and less likely to round off or shear off.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... w-30665014

Cheers.

Was trying to find specs, will try that screw as I'm going to try and remove the bleeder screw with what little is left, someone before destroyed the screw/bolt, so if I can save the caliper, I can at least test the brake system before I spend more money on a brand new unit.

Post by **abscate** » 30 Aug 2015, 10:53

You can't count on your rear caliper being OEM, and Ill bet it isn't after 17 years.

If one of the others looks good, maybe take it out and compare with new one before buying? Bleeding both sides is a good idea, of course.

JRev · Post by **JRev** » 30 Aug 2015, 11:06

abscate wrote:You can't count on your rear caliper being OEM, and Ill bet it isn't after 17 years.

If one of the others looks good, maybe take it out and compare with new one before buying? Bleeding both sides is a good idea, of course.

I did think it was OEM, but I need to remove it anyway and then clean it up so good point, i better double check, but so far when I've replaced any parts they have all been OEM, looking through some of the history it looks like main dealer was used up until about 86000 and then I purchased it at 92000 after the previous owner started to run the car into the ground and then I've had it now for 42,000 miles.

Post by **JimBee** » 30 Aug 2015, 11:38

The oem rear calipers on my 850's have had really substantial bleeder screws, but the aftermarket replacements that I've used have a puny screw made of steel not brass and that must be made to break off after rusting to the caliper. That's a "good" design if you want to sell more calipers, but could be a money loser, read on...

Solution? Buy an aftermarket that's made this way from O'Reilly; they come with a lifetime warranty. If the bleeder screw fails the caliper is junk and they'll give you a new one. I've gotten one replacement this way, no questions.

It might help to put a little anti-seize paste on the screw threads and a rubber cap on the nipple (mine didn't come with a cap).

The one problem you might run into if the caliper is on the right rear, is the brake line fitting is hard to loosen. let us know if you figure out an easy way to do that.

JRev · Post by **JRev** » 30 Aug 2015, 11:52

JimBee wrote:The oem rear calipers on my 850's have had really substantial bleeder screws, but the aftermarket replacements that I've used have a puny screw made of steel not brass and that must be made to break off after rusting to the caliper. That's a "good" design if you want to sell more calipers, but could be a money loser, read on...

Solution? Buy an aftermarket that's made this way from O'Reilly; they come with a lifetime warranty. If the bleeder screw fails the caliper is junk and they'll give you a new one. I've gotten one replacement this way, no questions.

It might help to put a little anti-seize paste on the screw threads and a rubber cap on the nipple (mine didn't come with a cap).

The one problem you might run into if the caliper is on the right rear, is the brake line fitting is hard to loosen. let us know if you figure out an easy way to do that.

Rear right is the caliper I replaced but I never had an issue with removing the hard line union (caliper side) so I must have got lucky as I simply soaked it in WD-40 and then used a brake spanner. But what happened is part of the line (near the hose) was damaged after twisting but that was my error and then I made new brake lines.

I didn't realise there was a lack of companies that made new calipers, they mostly appear refurbished but yes I may have to just buy a new unit as that way the entire rear will have new caliper/hard lines/hoses each side.

obayha · Post by **obayha** » 30 Aug 2015, 13:00

Have some from my '98 I am parting out. As far as I know, they are OEM. Car only have 331,000 when it died. We don't stop much down here.
Shane

JRev · Post by **JRev** » 31 Aug 2015, 14:47

As it turned out the caliper was OEM, although not a positive as it needs replacing. part of the housing has rusted. Managed to get the bolts off by hammering on a 12mm socket.

I tried to remove the front bleed nipples, they are seized, and also oem, really all calipers need to be replaced (or repaired) but am happy to replace as I'm doing the work, rather then paying a garage and wasting money on labour charges.

Post by **abscate** » 01 Sep 2015, 04:24

When you replace these you buy yourself 5 years of trouble free brake operation. In our climate, where its nasty to work on cars for 2-3 months, that's good trouble to avoid.

I did manage to whip off a calipervR/R on a warm January day a few years back in upstate NY, though.