DIY: Oil Pan/Sump O-Ring Replacement 2000 XC

[Paul240480]

Hi Matt. Well no I guess I'm not 100 percent that its not from higher up. I did a full PCV with all new Volvo stuff..... If its not the sump, its the sensor just above those bolts I suspected...... Oil pressure I guess?

Anyhow I've gone for it as I have a set of OE seals..... This leak has spurred me on. I am making progress, however I have given up for the night..... having a nightmare getting the forward (drivers side for me) corner of the sump free.... the rest of it is 'out'.

Guess I haven't cranked the engine high enough?

Will have another go tomoz...... not sure now where I can use the jack to lift it higher now........

[Paul240480]

Just needed to get the engine a little higher! Enough again for today!





Sump is now draining, next the big clean up then working out where all them seals go, then trying to see if I can get the flippin' thing back in!!!!

[Paul240480]

It's done, took me 11 days this one! Anyways, rolling not leaking and another jobby ticked off of the list!
Phew, that was hard!

[lostraven]

I read on another forum where someone did this job and they inserted the real long bolts in a way that they touched the flywheel. I thought how the heck could that happen? Sure enough I did the same thing. There's enough play when inserting the middle two bolts that they can skew and end up threading against the flywheel to the point that they even seem tight. Needless to say when I started the car it mad the most awful grinding sound which stopped when the bolt fell out. I sighed in relief that I didn't royally screw something up.

Happened to me too last night. Scared the piss out of me. Thankfully I reread this and realized I needed to be very particular in threading the two middle long bolts in. I was wondering what happened when I put them in and they didn't tighten down fully.

As for the success of my replacement (which was a one-day, 12-hour job), the morning after and I still have a leak. I'm pretty damn sure it's coming from the oil thermostat housing, which boggles my mind a little. I replaced the rectangular sealing ring in the housing as well as the o-rings in the coolant lines connecting to the housing. However, I still see some seepage from around the joint. I'm pretty damn sure I put that sealing ring in correctly on the housing. Might try to tighten the torx bolts some more, though I thought I got them pretty tight. Worst case I may have to drain the oil again, take the front passenger wheel off, and take the housing apart again to check the sealing ring. I have some of that chemical sealant left I used on the oil pan that I could apply to the mating surfaces of the oil thermostat housing, though that may be overkill.

[FLXC90]

Thanks for this, T5 resurrection parts came in from FCP, now I can go to the hobby shop and bring it out of its coma

[erikv11]

Those oil cooler lines (and thermostat etc) are such a pain, I think the next time I need to do this on a pre-99 turbo I will upgrade the pan and cooler to the 99+ setup.

[eulogiosifuen]

thank you very much for the pic. posted it really helped me tackle the oil pan removal on my 98 s70 volvo. I am running into one problem, and that is with the power steering line. I have two lines going across the pan and they will not move out of the way. I think one line is going into the a/c compressor.
Can someone help me with this so I can move on to the next step.
Thank You

[E Showell]

OK - So I am literally half way through this job. The oil pan is free and down a bit, but I can't maneuver it clear. The round oil pick up does not want to come free of the pan.

Any ideas on how to get them apart?

Also, it does not appear that my oil pan has any gasket residue on it whatsoever which suggests to me either, that the pan has been off before and was reinstalled without any anaerobic sealant, or that it never had any in the first place. It was not leaking from the perimeter of the pan, however. Thoughts? When I reinstall the pan, I am tempted to put the anaerobic gasket material on the block side, not the pan side. Any reason I shouldn't do that? I figure it could be more forgiving of getting the pan maneuvered into position without smearing gasket material all over everything.

Finally, I noticed a fair bit of white powdery corrosion near the bolt heads on the side of the pan facing the rear of the car. In fact, I managed to snap off one of the M7 1.0 x 20 bolts at the head while removing it. Luckily, there is still about a 1/4 inch of shank in the block. I am hoping some PB Blaster and vice grips and I should be able to twist that puppy out.

Given that my Volvo dealership is not open on Easter Sunday and it was late in the day when I snapped the bolt, I have some Lowes replacements, but they lack the flange of the originals. Will I be OK with a standard hardware store bolt and a washer? It is only for one, but I am tempted to replace all of the bolts on which I saw powdery corrosion, which would amount to about 8-10 of the M7 1.0 x 20s.

[abscate]

Bolt plus washer will be fine. These things arent that tight, its more important they are relatively even than torqued up the wazoo.

HAvent dropped a Volvo pan yet, so I can't comment on what is hanging up there..

[JimBee]

I bit the bullet and dropped the passenger side of the subframe about five inches. That's the only way I could drop the front end of the pan enough to get a wrench on the two 10 mm bolts that hold the pickup tube to the block. That tube with the pickup screen on the end goes down through a hole in a baffle almost to the bottom of the pan. You have to remove it to swing the pan free, or slide it out over the subframe rail. I have some pictures I recently put into a tutorial. I'll try to make them available tomorrow.