1998 v70xc rear brake hard line

dr1vereye · Post by **dr1vereye** » 17 Sep 2015, 18:32

I have been using all the great help here since I bought my daughter a Volvo. Only needed a rear rotor. Which of course mean 2 rotor and pads...then oh look park brake pads are worn/broken... oh look park brake cable seized....well I should change the cracked brake hose. Everything fixed except I tore the crap out of the hard line and hose connector on the rear passenger side. Now do I have to remove the gas tanks to get that hard line changed? I heard that might be a BIG job? Is there another way to get the line out? Nervous about flaring the end with such little room.
Please any advice

Post by **kahl** » 17 Sep 2015, 19:53

I know exactly where you are....been there....I cut the line as close to the nut as I could with the line cutter. It left just enough to slide a new line nut on and flare. I was also prepared to cut above that 90 degree bend and install a short piece if I needed. Last resort was a new pipe. With the AWD I could not find an easy way to get to the pipe manifold.

The Volvo brake pipe, right part number is 3524361. left side is 9157669.

Post by **scot850** » 17 Sep 2015, 20:17

There is no way to access and replace the rear pipe that runs from the LH rear wheel side from the LH jacking point over to the RH side without dropping the whole rear end. Kahl has made the only sensible alternative which is to make up a short length of pipe to replace the wrecked part, or re-sleeve the end of the pipe, but it may be too short to do that easily.

If you look up on my 'rant' on best tool ever, you will see I paid a stupid amount for a Snap-On 11mm flare wrench because of my concern of damaging these pipes. I am replacing the pipe over the rear sub-frame anyway as I had to drop the sub-frame as it failed due to corrosion. Again, you can see my 'blog' on the progress for this. If you can manage to find a way to repair what you have I strongly suggest you go that way unless you want a lot of hurt!!

: Rear sub-frame and brake pipe

On the above picture you can see part of the brake line on the RH side of the sub-frame and it runs over between the tank and the frame. If you need it I can take a picture of the routing for you as I have pulled a spare frame and the pipe is still attached.

Neil.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 17 Sep 2015, 21:00

I screwed one up on my XC and I wound up buying a new flare nut and rented the flair tool from the local O'Reilly. I was able to sneak the extra 3/8" or so by straightening out some of the bends. It isn't as pretty as the factory job but me trying to bend that mess would have been even worse.

I think the OEM lines have a bubble flair but the standard flair worked fine for me.

...Lee

dr1vereye · Post by **dr1vereye** » 18 Sep 2015, 17:14

Went back in the morning with fresh patience and a propane torch. Heated it for about 30 seconds and steam started shooting out. I had cut the rubber line to get a 6 point socket already so no risk of blowing the line. She opened up with the last possible grain of brass nut left precariously holding on to a vice grip. Left that grip still, and forced (stripped the mounted holder) the 14mm new rubber on. Pulled the caliper off and spun it to attach the other end of the hose (to not twist up the line) Remounted the calliper and it was good.
Next one went easy, just less heat since I did not cut the line.
Last one was another vice grip hamburger mess. Flare wrench only worked on one.
Penetratin oil. Heat. Wiggle. Penetrating oil. Heat. Wiggle. She will let loose the one after you give up.
warning! Of all brakes, do not screw up the rear passenger side.
Thanks