2000 s70 no start (I have vida/dice)

Veilleuxpbd · Post by **Veilleuxpbd** » 22 Sep 2015, 11:07

Hi all!
Context
I recently ordered a chinese knockoff dice and vida set, and made it work with a downloaded version of 2012d on a xp laptop. I used it to clear a srs fault I had for a while (seat connector disconnected whilst I was cleaning the car-- doh!) and it worked beautifully. I checked my spark plugs at the same time.

Enough context, the problem:
1 km from my house the battery icon appeared, then the CEL, then the car sputered and died. I had it towed home and now I'm struggling as to what on earth this problem is (The nearest garage is a volvo dealership and I'm a student and I've just lost my job (yeah! /s), so that was a no go). While I was waiting for my towing, I checked the cel with a cheap obd2 scanner, and code p0350 appeared, along with another similar one (p0350d? p03501? p0351? I dont remember

). At the time, the engine would crank but not start. Ive tried erasing the fault and nothing changed, the car cranked but didnt want to start. Now its in my garage and Vida tells me I have imm 321 fault code stored, no other dtcs, even with the cheap scanner, and whilst trying to find the problem, the battery completely discharged (its not a new battery, but not old, never had a problem). The car was OFF, key in ING II position, dice connected to it, headlights open and nothing else, and within 15 mins the voltage at the battery dropped to 6v, causing the car to stop communicating with dice

. The car doesn't want to crank, it just emits a semi-loud pop when I try to start it, but I have no idea if thats just caused by the dead battery, since its been off for an hour since the first problem before I could try to start it again, and the pop is the same as if I had forgotten my lights all night long.

Other relevant information :

I have frayed some ignition coil cables when I put back the engine cover, like so

Note that since I've cleared the srs fault and checked the sparks (and frayed these wires) the car has drove for about 500km, one week.

Also, while checking the sparks, ive cleaned a grease patch with water and degreaser, and some water fell onto a wire (at the intersection of the blue, which seems to be connected to my pos battery terminal, and the black bunch of cables

It smoked a little when it happened, the smoke seemed to come from between the blue wire and black cable, I've disconnected my battery, dried the connection, reconnected the battery and everything was good, no visible damage and no more smoke. I havent driven in water or rain in the last week and the wires are dry.

Please help me, I'm lost and sad

Thank you

Sommerfeldt · Post by **Sommerfeldt** » 22 Sep 2015, 11:34

Hey!

Well... first of all, it's pretty clear that your problem is electrical, which is always a b!tch to contend with.

Second, I'd say clean up your engine compartment, battery and anywhere there're wires. Dust, oil, dirt and moisture leads to "creepage", or creeping currents, which can drain a battery and even worse things. I don't mean that stuff needs to be sparkling or that yours is especially bad, but if you've got layers of crud, then that's bad news.

Third, as far as I remember, your trouble code suggests that you've got a short somewhere (also your battery issue), and that your immobilizer can't talk to the ECU.
I suggest you start with the smoking wires. If there's smoke, there's damage, and that's probably where your culprit is.

Well, it's a place to start, anyway.

- S

Veilleuxpbd · Post by **Veilleuxpbd** » 22 Sep 2015, 12:00

thanks, I'll try this this afternoon, but I have two questions;
What is the blue cable? It's connected to my pos battery terminal and to a part of the engine I would assume is supposed to be grounded.
How may I find a short with a multimeter? Like how do I know something IS the short?

Veilleuxpbd · Post by **Veilleuxpbd** » 22 Sep 2015, 15:15

Okay, I've checked the blue wire, where smoke seamed to come from, and no damage was visible (though I still have no idea what that cable is or if its supposed to be connected to my battery +). I have checked for parasitistic draw and have measured .02 amps (not mA) with everything OFF. I have then disconnected the battery positive and hooked, between the battery and the battery cable, a lamp that turned on whenever current goes through. I then tried disconnecting each and every goddamn fuse on the car, and found that I could turn the light completely off by disconnecting fuses number 1 4 6 7 and 8 in this fuse box

. Reconnecting them one at a time allowed me to (grossely) estimate the amount of current ; here are my notes : (I'm measuring the light output) 1-low 4-low 6-strong 7-strong 8-medium.

I've also tried to know if I could follow the vida instructions for IMM 321, which called for disconnecting the ecu and immobilizer. I took a photo of the ecu if its any help

I CAN remove it, so its good. The immobilizer is harder, it seems to move but I cant see any screws (this place is tight tight tight). Anyone knows how? Also, is this the correct thing (immobilizer)?

Thank you

Veilleuxpbd · Post by **Veilleuxpbd** » 22 Sep 2015, 18:42

I have the right thing, and I've found how to remove it, but I still have the electrical drain problem. No one knows what to do?

Post by **abscate** » 23 Sep 2015, 05:37

0.020 Amp, or 20 milliamperes is fine for a current draw.

If you had smoking wires, Leave the ECU alone and go and get a replacement harness from a PnP

Smoking wires will not fix themselves

Does your ETM whine for a few seconds when you turn on the ignition?

Veilleuxpbd · Post by **Veilleuxpbd** » 23 Sep 2015, 06:43

The car's at the point where there isnt enough current for the dash to light up properly (its christmas time for my dash), so I dont know if what the whine you are referring to would show up, but no, there is no whine, only a small vibration coming from the intake hose, between the maf and the etm.

As for the smoking wire, I've disconnected the blue wire from whatever it is connected to and turns out the connection had oxidised and engine oil (my bad, I dont aim so good) was on it, so the water (channelled by the black plastic cable cover) trickled on it and burned the oil and gunk on the plug. There is no damage to the wires inside the black plastic thing, as far as the eyes can tell.

I think I'll try to macgyver the ignition wires that were frayed and try to get boosted, see if the engine accepts my offerings.

Sommerfeldt · Post by **Sommerfeldt** » 23 Sep 2015, 06:53

Veilleuxpbd wrote:I think I'll try to macgyver the ignition wires that were frayed and try to get boosted, see if the engine accepts my offerings.

I do believe you misspelled "replace".

Replace them.

- S

Veilleuxpbd · Post by **Veilleuxpbd** » 23 Sep 2015, 07:02

I just want to know if itll work (ie if this is the problem) as I do not have any means of transportation and need the car back on the road asap to find a job. I'll simply splice a good part of wire in place of the frayed part, nothing too critical.

Herb Goltz · Post by **Herb Goltz** » 23 Sep 2015, 09:58

I think that before you start any diagnostics you need to have a good battery with 12.6V available-- I don't trust electron-deprived computers. Canadian Tire will do a free battery load test if you bring it in. I have a 2000 V70, and the blue cables on mine are grounds. I wonder if you have bad battery cables-- a very common problem in these cars. If the resistance is high due to corrosion in the wires, you will generate heat and have insufficient voltage, which will create all kinds of problems. Make sure the basics are sound first before chasing codes...