2000 s70 no start (I have vida/dice)

[Veilleuxpbd]

So now the remaining questions

1- Is the imm 321 a symptom or the cause?
2- can the p0350 have been caused by a delayed short in the frayed wires (I've driven 500km between the problem and the damage to the wires) and must I expect damage to other parts?
3- What in the heck is the blue wire in the pictures?

Also, for the 20Ma leak, I was wrong, that's only for fuse no 6 in the picture. The real number is 75Ma.
I'll have a buddy try to boost me up/charge the battery, hopefully itll start, if not at least I'll be able to hook up vida/dice to it and try to dig in more info on what is the problem.

Extra bonus question; is there some sort of test I can do on vida to check the ign coils/wires and localize a short in the wiring of the car?

Thank you all for the help so far

[Veilleuxpbd]

@herb goltz, sorry I hadnt seen your reply before posting that last one; I'll hook it up to my friends car to read the ecu at full voltage. Also, for the blue wire, that's my suspicion, but its hooked to my positive post, which are not original, they've been replaced for military style posts 2 years ago, about the same time I've replaced/upgraded the wiring to the fuse box and various grounds (I was losing 2.5V to the fuse box and 1.2 on the negatives!) Could it be that this wire IS NOT supposed to be connected like so, and I've just been lucky so far, and that this is what caused the smoking (connection was to corroded to let the flow through, water helped it and neg to pos = death)?

[Herb Goltz]

It seems probable that the P0350 code (the companion code P0351 points to cylinder 1 being affected) reflects the short in the coil packs-- fixing the wire is easy (I'd solder and use heat shrink insulation), but you won't know if it cooked something until the car runs again. Once it runs, you can swap the coil packs to see if the code moves with the pack. If so, you can replace the coil pack. I'm not sure what else would be vulnerable in the case of shorted coil pack wiring.

I'm curious if the car runs with a jump. If it does, my first move would be to return the cabling to stock configuration (pos, neg, B+) with all the factory ground point attachments clean and tight.

Good luck!

[abscate]

Until you can get that ETM to self-test (7-8 second whine when powered up) you won't get that car running. The ETM is designed to fail safe and I doubt you will get any fuel injected if it can't initialize. Mike knows more about this than I do and can confirm.

[Veilleuxpbd]

thanks @herb goltz, that's reassuring I'll let you know if it works.

@abscate, what you mean is that once the car is ready to start (enough power), I should put the key in ign II position and wait 10 seconds before trying to start the car?

oh and for what you mentionned earlier in the post, the ETM does whine when powered up, like a weeeeeh-POP, I heard it when I went to solder the frayed wire. As far as I remember, the car has always made that noise though.

[precopster]

If car is non turbo it will start without an ETM connected to loom. Fuel is still supplied.

The 1999-2000 year is notorious for IMM-321 codes. I get that on my 2000 V70 every 2nd or 3rd time I connect an OBDII device (including Vida) and sometimes the immobiliser circuit requires 5 or 6 unsuccessful starts with a fully charged battety before it will latch the IMM-321 code off.

So charge battery by begging or borrowing a charger and crank at least 8 or 10 times. You may now have a new issue called lawn mower syndrome which is caused by incomplete starting or short trip such as afew metres. Symptom is no starting and cranking that is too fast. You may need to squirt oil into each cylinder to raise compression.

[Veilleuxpbd]

Wow, the symptoms you<ve described match what happened to the car, it crapped not 1km from home, and all that is on a downhill road (I use my brakes more than my engine). While I was waiting for the towing, I tried to start and it cranked but wouldnt start, and the cranks seemed really fast, compared to normal (like when I do a compression test).
Can I charge the car like youve said, but with another car?
And can I erase the code with vida, or must I just keep trying to start the car (within reason) until it disappears?

PS: is there another solution to the lawnmower syndrome, because the car is currently in an underground parking, and oily smoke probably isnt something my landlord will appreciate.

[Veilleuxpbd]

Okay, I've first disconnected the weird positive blue wire, then connected my battery to a friends car. Checked the voltage difference between blue cable and positive: 13.6, between blue cable and negative post : 0. So its a negative.. what the hell? I've been driving for a long long time with that cable in that position, its really weird .

I then let my car charge up, and did a fault trace with vida.
ECM 8010 Battery charged too long
ECM 720A Immobilizer communication - faulty communication
First one I guess is because of my friends car.
Second I guess is a fluke, as I've read somewhere that it can be caused by disconnecting the battery.

Then came the fun part, it cranked (fast) aaaAANNDDD... nothing.
Tried it a few times, varying the amount of time I wait between OFF, IGN II and start, to allow the etm to do its job, and nothing worked.

@jimmy57 wrote

If the operation of the car prior to that start n stall was a brief run like to move car in driveway or in/out of garage then you have exhaust valves stuck faintly open and it will have little compression (makes it spin over fast when cranking since there is little resistance for starter) and it fouls the plugs a bit. If that is the symptom then you jump it to another vehicle to assure ample battery power. Then depress the accel pedal to the floor and crank continuously for 60-75 seconds or until it picks up and runs. If the first try doesn't work then rest the starter for 3-4 minutes and try again. This is only if it has the symptoms of no compression.

Regarding similar symptoms in another thread, and just like @precopster said, I might have the lawnmower syndrome.

Then I've tried (having disconnected my friends car) connecting the blue wire where it seems to belong and nothing happened, no voltage difference, no spark, nada, which strenghtens my idea that it is indeed a negative cable. (cranking it then didnt work either)

So my options as to what happened seem to be this (correct me if I'm wrong):
-Ignition coil wiring died (i've fixed the cable btw), but seems less probable since the car cranks fast.
-Car's exhaust valves stayed slightly open, leading to the drowning of the engine.
-Something else, electrical related, might have happenned, indicated by the fact that the battery symbol first popped up seconds before the car initially died, and that I had a freakin ground connected to my battery, so the car could've lost spark and then flooded.

I'll try jimmy's solution tommorrow, and then precopster if it didn't work, I'll let you guys know.

[Veilleuxpbd]

Also, after trying to start the car, I tried to re-read the codes to check if the car had any idea of why it wasn't starting, but no such luck.

Could I have gotten some codes, or does the ecu only store codes once the engine is on?
If it COULD have stored codes, that would be one point to (griffindor) the flooded engine hypotesis

[precopster]

Work out what you have and what you don't have.

Do you have spark during cranking at the end of the coil packs??

Do you have pulsed firing of injectors? Perhaps hook up a simple test light so you can see the pulse.

Do you have fuel at the injector rail when you unscrew the blue cap and use the top of that cap to depress the valve on the rail?