2000 s70 no start (I have vida/dice)

Herb Goltz · Post by **Herb Goltz** » 24 Sep 2015, 09:20

In addition to what Mike says (which is spot-on as usual), I think you need to get the fundamentals sorted on the electrical system of your car, so that it has the potential to run under its own power. I understand money is tight, but consider getting a good used battery (my local junkyard has them for $35 with a 3 year exchange!). Or take your existing battery to Canadian Tire for a free load test-- if it tests OK, borrow a battery charger. Return the battery cabling to stock configuration. Once the car is capable of running on its own, you can start the diagnostics Mike suggests. Testing for spark and seeing if fuel is available are straightforward. See if Partsource or Canadian Tire will loan you a 'noid light kit to see if your injectors are firing (I have borrowed one from Partsource in Ontario). I wouldn't spend too much time looking for codes until you have checked the fundamentals.

Good luck!

Veilleuxpbd · Post by **Veilleuxpbd** » 24 Sep 2015, 16:49

Okay, battery charged, all cables to correct connections, fuel is supplied, injectors work, but no spark.
Tried on two cylinders, nada.
Compression test on those two; 150 and 135 where previously (1 month ago) I had 210 and 190 respectively.
Engine was flooded this morning, I've let it dry (sparks removed) and have tried (out of frustration) to start it with the oil in the cylinders anyway, which did improve the sound of the cranks, little slower and more grunt, but nothing else.

What do I do now?

Post by **precopster** » 25 Sep 2015, 16:14

Remove relay 103 (fuel) which is located behind the fuses and is accessible by removing 4 torx screws.

Lawnmower syndrome is partly caused by unburned fuel washing down the cylinder walls which dilutes the film of engine oil on the walls. Once you add oil to the cylinders and crank for 30-50 revolutions (in 10 x 5 second bursts as below) without fuse 103 you should see some compression gains.

As far as spark is concerned try cranking for 5 seconds about 10 times. Each time you hook up an OBDII device you could be reintroducing the IMM-321 error.

Another possibility is that the antenna ring connector near the ignition key side of the steering column needs a clean.

You'll need a fully charged battery.

Veilleuxpbd · Post by **Veilleuxpbd** » 26 Sep 2015, 15:46

I'll be sure to try this if the engine still won't start. The camshaft sensor is dead, crankshaft one is working. I'll buy one and let you guys know.

PS: I've tried the sensor on the car and it was dead, however I know we can test the crankshaft sensor whilst its away from the car (ie in my living room), is there a way to test the camshaft sensor in a similar fashion? I would like to be double sure

Veilleuxpbd · Post by **Veilleuxpbd** » 27 Sep 2015, 21:04

Well damn.. wasn't that. Bought two sensors at the junkyard, and both didn't change the no spark problem..
What do I do next?

Post by **abscate** » 28 Sep 2015, 05:18

Did you solve your immobiliser problem and code? The immobiliser turns off the spark!

Veilleuxpbd · Post by **Veilleuxpbd** » 28 Sep 2015, 08:07

Yes yes the code is gone, it was just a fluke caused by the dead battery

Veilleuxpbd · Post by **Veilleuxpbd** » 28 Sep 2015, 20:22

When I checked the cranshaft position sensor, I did the AC voltage test, which it passed, but I've read somewhere that you can also test its resistance, which I did, and it read 125 ohms, however I cannont for the life of me find the specs for that sensor, all I find is a value of 200 to 500 on 94 to 98 cars. Is it supposed to be the same value, and if so, can this be what causes my no spark condition?

I have also tried the lock/unlock doors 5X to reset the immobilizer, which did not work, and have also tried to crank it in short bursts, about 15 times, which did not produce spark. I am testing spark by having all sparkplugs in the engine with the corresponding ign coil, to which I have fitted a spare spark plug and grounded (the spark) to the engine grounding strip, so I could see the spark (or lack-there-off) from the inside of the car.

So to recap, compression is good (I've retested once the engine had dried and numbers are back to normal), camshaft sensor is good, crankshaft sensor might not be good, vida can still communicate with the car, which means (I think) that the ecu is not fried, no codes are stored (obd2 and vida), fuel pump and pressure is good, 103 relay is good. What more can prevent spark? I'll give the immobilizer antenna a good cleaning tommorrow morning, and I have a ride to the nearest pick n pull, where ill snatch a crankshaft sensor if no one answers and an antenna ring ( to be sure ).

Thank you all

Post by **mikealder** » 29 Sep 2015, 04:07

It's the electrical connection on the immobiliser ring and the connector that goes on to the immobiliser ring that needs to be cleaned, they oxidise and create a resistance that stops the ID of the key being read by the cars immobiliser system, no key, uncoded key, dead key or wrong key equals no spark - Mike

Veilleuxpbd · Post by **Veilleuxpbd** » 29 Sep 2015, 17:59

please direct your attention to this new thread, which eliminates the unhelpful information this one has : https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=72193

2000 s70 no start (I have vida/dice)

Re: 2000 s70 no start (I have vida/dice)