I've been a long-time contributor on VS, SS, and v70R forums but had not spent much time on MVS. For a while now I had intended to create a thread here as a resource for those who want/need to rebuild their turbo 5 cylinder engines to complement the many excellent repair threads.
The following is based on the comprehensive overhaul that Ben (B Mac) and I did to my engine last year. I have tried to indicate parts that are optional and also named aftermarket suppliers on certain parts where you can save money without sacrificing quality.
I used Eastwood ceramic engine paint in an aluminum color to do the block. In retrospect, I would definitely buy spray cans rather than pints of paint and brushes as it's just way more effort to do it this way and the result is definitely not better unless you're an artist.
This list should be relevant for all 850 and 1998 S/V/C70 turbo motors but many of these parts are also relevant for later engines.
Parts Needed:
-1161059 anaerobic sealant and a roller
-30750783 Genuine Volvo oil pan gasket set
(includes: 1-8642559 oil pan seal, 1-8642560 Oil Pan Seal, 1-1397983 Oil Pan Seal, 1-30637867 Dipstick Tube O-Ring, 2-3514546 Dipstick Tube O-Rings and 4-30637866 Oil Line O-Ring)
-3545696 oil pressure sensor (comes with gasket) (OPTIONAL)
-947621 oil pressure sensor gasket
-271815 Oil squirter gasket kit
-274260* (or 271439) Oil Pump Gasket Set *For Eng Serial # 1186000-
-9146132 Valve spring for rebuilding oil pump (I would definitely do this while you have the chance)
-973876 snap ring for above spring (OPTIONAL)
-1271903 piston for above spring (discontinued and completely unnecessary)
-1366791 rectangular sealing ring for oil pan thermostat (-1998)
-968757 x2 o-rings oil pan thermostat housing (-1998)
-3531017 Head Gasket (Genuine Volvo or check quality carefully if aftermarket) - I used a Victor Reinz gasket but ordered two from different suppliers. One appeared to be excellent quality while the other was clearly not. If you are having work done to the block such as boring you may want to use a deck plate in which case you will need to supply the machine shop with an extra head gasket and set of head bolts.
-6842347 x12 Cylinder Head Bolts (Victor Reinz/Mahle/Febi are all good)
-6842272 x2 front cam seal (Beck Arnley ok)
-9443310 x2 rear cam seal (SKF # 11809 ok)
-1397525 x5 valve cover sealing rings (Victor Reinz ok)
-3517893 x20 valve stem seals or 272424 kit of 24 (Victor Reinz kit # 70-26058-00 however in retrospect, I would not use aftermarket valve stem seals). *Check whether you have 6 or 7mm valve stem seals*
-9458178 rear main seal (Genuine Volvo only)
-PCV System Kit (Genuine Volvo only) if yours has significant mileage on it
We took the opportunity to upgrade to the intake manifold and throttle body from the NA engines:
-NA intake manifold w/out EGR (multiple part numbers) (OPTIONAL)
-9146266 Intake manifold gasket (should come in the PCV kit)
-1271893 NA throttle body (OPTIONAL)
-9135990 throttle body gasket
-Snabb NA throttle body silicone hose
-9146225 Upper idle air hose – Snabb Silicone
-978111 Vacuum tree o-ring
-6842446 Vacuum tree w/ o-ring (check your vacuum tree for cracks as this can be an unidentified source of a vacuum leak) (OPTIONAL)
-271735 exhaust manifold gasket set (Genuine Volvo!)
-30637921 Japan/R manifold, cleaned, milled, ceramic painted (OPTIONAL)
-30713254 unique heat shield for R manifold (OPTIONAL)
Cooling System:
-9463274 Thermostat housing gasket on block
-1397909 Thermostat housing (check your old one for cracks! We only discovered this when refilling the coolant and watching it drain out under the car!)
-9141095 Coolant expansion tank (OPTIONAL)
-6842894 Expansion tank hose (silicone do88)
-9135267 Expansion tank hose (silicone do88)
-9186847 Heater hose outlet
-9186849 Heater hose inlet
Engine Internals:
There are a few aftermarket suppliers for bearings and this is a topic that has gotten a lot of discussion recently. My experience has been that it's best to use the Volvo rod and main bearings but if you do go with Glyco or King/Toga bearings, I would carefully inspect and measure them.
-139,5mm Forged Rods - definitely have a machine shop check these to ensure they are weighted evenly across the set and to ensure that the wrist pins fit properly.
For a top-notch setup, use ARP rod bolts & be sure to use ARP fastener assembly lube.
-30777466 x5 sets Genuine Volvo rod bearings
-9135439 x5 Snap Rings on piston (most piston kits come with the snap rings)
-Pistons x5 - We used Mahle OS2 pn: 038 35 02 (wrist pins, snap rings, piston rings)
These are not forged pistons. The Standard sized pn is 038 35 00 and OS1 is 038 35 01
I believe that Mahle also makes a forged version of these.
-Volvo Main Bearings (ordered by color and code - refer to the Volvo chart)
-31368044 x12 main bolts (Genuine Volvo - haven't heard of any aftermarket suppliers)
-973660 spring pin for crankshaft (totally unnecessary to replace; this is just for reference)
-9454743 x10 Flywheel to crankshaft bolts
-959219 x6 pressure plate to flywheel bolts
-272218 R Clutch Kit (or clutch of choice)
-Resurface & optionally lighten flywheel & balance with clutch – Machine Shop
-985375 x4 crankshaft pulley bolts (OPTIONAL)
-30677767 water pump gasket - if you are replacing your water pump, get the kit which will include the gasket and bolts.
-Oil filter (Volvo/Mann) - There are tons of aftermarket ones but use something that will filter really well for the first few oil changes after rebuilding rather than the higher flowing filters like K&N and M1.
-11996 oil pan plug washer
-1275379 oil cap gasket
This is a great opportunity to refresh your engine belts:
-TB252RB Gates Timing Belt (different part number if you have the later style tensioner I believe)
-6PK1743 Continental Serpentine Belt
Ignition components:
-Genuine Volvo Spark Plugs or NGK BKR7E - cheap, available everywhere, one step colder than stock
-Bosch Distributor Rotor
-Bosch Distributor Cap
-Bougicord spark plug wires
Turbo Components
-TCV Silicone Vacuum Hose Kit (IPD)
-1275549* turbo to downpipe (*some aftermarket downpipes like TME's do not use this)
-8642450 turbo to manifold gasket
-11994 x6 copper crush washers
-31251439 oil return line sealing ring
-31251456 oil return line gasket
-18671 x2 turbo oil line gaskets block side
-6842190 turbo coolant line– do88 Silicone Kit
-30713305 turbo coolant return hose – do88 Silicone Kit
-30640776 x2 return hose clamps do88 SS clamp kit
While you are doing all of this, I would also take the opportunity to replace all of your vacuum elbows (IPD sells a kit with most of the elbows needed) and other vacuum hose in the engine bay either with new Volvo hose or by buying a few extra meters of silicone hose.
It's also a good opportunity to put some new loom on your wires to keep them protected. Alternatively, there are some high temp wraps and tubing available but they're pretty cost-prohibitive. Take a look your fuel injector wires as they're in a pretty hot spot and the loom has probably disintegrated.
Steering
While you have the engine out, this is also a good opportunity to refresh some steering components:
The rack and pinion you need will depend on whether you have a 4 or a 5 on your engine plate. A "4" represents a TRW rack, a "5" represents an SMI and if you do not have this number at all, you have a TRW. There are a lot of bad rack and pinions out there both new and rebuilt. I have an AWD and went with a rebuilt TRW rack through A1 Cardone which seemed fine and claims to be rebuilt in the U.S. Other options are Mavel, Jorgen and obviously Volvo itself.
One more note, at least with AWDs, you can interchange a TRW rack with an SMI rack. As long as it comes with inner tie-rods (which are unique to each style), everything will bolt up fine. My wagon came with a TRW, at some point early on, the dealer replaced it with an SMI which I then replaced with a TRW.
I chose to replace the outer tie rods at the same time and used Moog branded ones which looked excellent.
Seals Needed
-969093 o ring steering pressure hose
-969092 x2 o rings steering pressure hose and reservoir
-1387453 x4 o-rings for hard lines
Another note: be careful when putting all of the sensors and wires back on that you do not cross the crank sensor wire with any of the distributor wires (or the coil wire). I had this happen and could not figure out why my car would randomly bog down/misfire etc. I actually thought I was having drivetrain issues until I noticed the crank sensor wire touching the coil wire! The interference messes up the signal.
Starting the Car and Driving
A quality conventional oil is the right choice...preferably something with high zinc content. We chose to put in some Joe Gibbs 5w30 break-in oil, started it up on the lift and let it come to temperature, changed the oil filter (checking that it didn't contain chunks of metal) and then began a break-in of the engine.
Everyone seems to have an opinion on breaking in an engine, from 'baby it for 1000 miles' to 'drive it like you stole it.' After discussing it with the machine shop, we settled on that the first 50 miles were especially important and so we drove around Tucson without letting the engine sit in one rpm band for very long, doing some smooth pulls up hills and then letting the car pull vacuum for stretches coming back downhill.
After the first 50 miles, I drove it another 400 or so trying to keep the engine speed varied and progressively ramping up the amount of boost and then changed the break-in oil and filter and re-filled with a name brand conventional oil. After roughly another 1000 miles I switched to synthetic oil (Lubri-Moly 5w40) and from here on will continue to follow a more normal oil change interval. For me that's ~5000 miles depending on how long the car sits in between usage.
I hope this list of parts is helpful to anyone considering rebuilding their engine.
**I have more details on the actual build and lots of pictures in the build thread for my wagon on Volvospeed: http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/169441-motor-buildin-with-big-will-b-mac/
