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2000 V70XC Thinking of rebuilding an engine

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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jonl
Posts: 86
Joined: 7 January 2010
Year and Model: V70XC, 2000
Location: Maryland

2000 V70XC Thinking of rebuilding an engine

Post by jonl »

Greetings,

I have the opportunity to buy a 2.4L engine that was pulled from a 2004 C70. It's already out of the car and comes with the turbo charger, intake manifold and fuel rail. The seller hasn't been very responsive to my questions but the price is very good. My engine is a B5244T and I'm guessing that his is a B5244T7. The description says that it suffered a blown head gasket.

I've done (what I'll call) a partial engine rebuild before but never gone out and bought a used one. Any advice on what I should be thinking about when I go to take a look at it?

How much does one of these things weigh?
I'm thinking of doing a complete rebuild. Do you think I need to get an engine stand to work on it?

Thanks up front to all who make this a great community.
Thanks a bunch,
Jon
2000 V70XC with 185k

tryingbe
Posts: 1893
Joined: 18 June 2009
Year and Model: None
Location: Mesa, AZ, USA
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Post by tryingbe »

With the engine out of the car, you have no way to verify the damage, other than physical inspection.

Personally, I wouldn't buy an engine without hearing the engine run or the seller offer some kind of warranty. Plus, 2004 have duel vvt system, where as your engine doesn't.

You could be just buying 400lbs scrap dirty aluminum that worth $.15 a lb.
85 GLH, 367 whp
00 Insight, 72 mpg

JimBee
Posts: 1915
Joined: 9 December 2008
Year and Model: 93 and 2 96 850's
Location: Minneapolis
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Post by JimBee »

Others will probably chime in on whether that timing system will be an easy port to your car.
If you really want to rebuild the engine, you'll want to begin with one that didn't run out of oil and/or have some other catastrophic issue.

If the price is right on the engine and the seller is willing to assure you that it ran well before being pulled, then I would offer $50.00 to allow me to pull the camshaft cap to inspect the cam journals and pull the pan and with that off, pull the rod bearing caps and inspect for problematic wear. The bearing inserts should show no copper or blemishes of any kind (there are pics online), should be a dull lead type finish with no more than a few tiny scratches, if that. With good maintenance, those bearing shells should be newish looking.

At that point, of course, you'll see the sludge build-up, if any. Look at the oil pickup screen. Clogged? Oh, oh.

The crankshaft journals should be perfectly clean, shiny and smooth, and still wet with a layer of oil. If you have a micrometer you could check it for roundness, but if the bearings are in good condition and the crankshaft is smooth, it's probably okay.

If there is a spun bearing you will see it and the crankshaft journal will most likely be scored. In that case, the engine would be junk.

You will also be able to see some of the running surface of the cylinders so you could check them for any signs of scoring.

Ideally, you would pull the head which would enable you to fully check the cylinders.

Realistically, the seller probably won't go for it, but if he does and you find a "deal-breaker" problem, I'd let him keep the $50.00 inspection fee. If everything checks out, I'd add the $50.00 to the agreed upon price. It would be worth it to know you're getting an engine that will be easy to bring back to "like new".

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