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1997 850 sedan trailer hitch

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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morgant
Posts: 62
Joined: 13 March 2012
Year and Model: 1997 850
Location: Shelburne, VT, US

1997 850 sedan trailer hitch

Post by morgant »

I'm looking to do some lightweight towing (hauling parts to/from my storage container in a lightweight trailer for a vehicle restoration) with my '97 850 sedan (NA base model). It's at about 220k miles, but still running well and I'll change the transmission fluid again, but I'm looking for an appropriate trailer hitch for it.

I couldn't find any info on whether Volvo/Thule made an original for this model and, if so, what the part numbers might be. The prices on the Curt 12211 are pretty good, it seems easy to install, and the ratings seem to match most of the others. Is it a decent one? Are there others that more similar to an OE design (if there was one)?

What do you do for wiring?
rikuwoiku — to travel overland.
1982 Series III 88" RHD w/2.8L Daihatsu diesel
1997 Volvo 850 sedan

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Post by scot850 »

Good luck with the OEM part. I looked it up on VIDA and it is a real mess of part number up-ticks.

There were also 2 different sizes of tow hitch. 2" and 1 7/8" to complicate things.

If I read it correctly, you may still be able to order a new one for $360-400 US.

Confirm part # is correct with dealer. Part # 9134150 (replaced # 9134257)

Neil.
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Ou2mame
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Post by Ou2mame »

I haven't used one on your car but I've used curt hitches and never had a problem. I've never had a problem with any hitch though. They're generally all good at their rated spec.

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

You can go to Uhaul and a hitch put on and wired pretty cheap

For a Class 1 small trailer, don't sweat the rating

I have the OEM class 3 on my 1999 which integrates nicely into the body but the install was big.
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morgant
Posts: 62
Joined: 13 March 2012
Year and Model: 1997 850
Location: Shelburne, VT, US

Post by morgant »

Thanks for the suggestions and the lead on the OE part #s.

The last time I had priced out Uhaul, they were significantly more expensive, but it looks like--excluding installation--it's on par for the Curt hitch. I'll see what the installation cost is and how they do their wiring.
rikuwoiku — to travel overland.
1982 Series III 88" RHD w/2.8L Daihatsu diesel
1997 Volvo 850 sedan

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skloon
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Year and Model: 94 850 95 850 04 S60
Location: Edmonton AB
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Post by skloon »

The draw-tite hitch installs with 3 bolts - but you do have to undo the bumper bracket to sneak it in-if your bracket is really rusty you can force it into place best to just look for a used one and do the wiring yourself I don't trust most places as they wire with those crimpy thingies

morgant
Posts: 62
Joined: 13 March 2012
Year and Model: 1997 850
Location: Shelburne, VT, US

Post by morgant »

The Draw-Tite 36262 looks identical to the Curt, so that's reassuring (Edit: and the Draw-Tite is the model Uhaul sells for the 850). I had seen other photos that looked closer to the OE (now that I've looked it up with the part #s).

How do you suggest doing the wiring as I want to avoid the crimp things? Where do you tap into the wiring harness, at the tail lights?
Last edited by morgant on 05 Nov 2015, 06:42, edited 1 time in total.
rikuwoiku — to travel overland.
1982 Series III 88" RHD w/2.8L Daihatsu diesel
1997 Volvo 850 sedan

morgant
Posts: 62
Joined: 13 March 2012
Year and Model: 1997 850
Location: Shelburne, VT, US

Post by morgant »

I found this other thread which has some tips on the wiring. I assume any wiring module (Uhaul, Curt, etc.) would probably be fine as long as I splice instead of using the clamp-on connections, correct?
rikuwoiku — to travel overland.
1982 Series III 88" RHD w/2.8L Daihatsu diesel
1997 Volvo 850 sedan

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skloon
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Post by skloon »

Sedan you can tap into the wiring behind the left taillight I would solder the wires in place I would use any module except perhaps the one from harbour freight-

combatkarl
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Post by combatkarl »

morgant wrote:How do you suggest doing the wiring as I want to avoid the crimp things? Where do you tap into the wiring harness, at the tail lights?
I am a terrible at using a soldering iron :oops: , but don't like the normal "cut and splice" wire terminal connectors. I've had good luck with Posi-Lock connectors. You can read about them here - http://www.webbikeworld.com/sale/posi-l ... r-sale.htm

Use MVS Amazon link to buy them? NAPA auto stores used to carry them, but I've yet to find Posi Locks in any store.

Also, etrailer is a good source for hitches. I've used them in the past. Most vehicles installation is fairly easy. https://www.etrailer.com/hitch-1997_Vol ... Series.htm

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