98 S70 Ignition Problems

dwsteele21 · Post by **dwsteele21** » 15 Nov 2015, 11:31

I have a 98 S70 which I have had for 15 months and It has recently started skipping real badly. So because I was unable to know the last time the plugs and wires were replaced I replaced them.
The car was still skipping so I replaced the distributor cap. Well, car wouldn't start and the rotor was burnt up. Actually it looked like a bomb went off in it.
So replace rotor, even though I marked location of the old rotor button, and made sure I put the old button on in the same location. Car would not start, it tries to, and once I was able to get it to start for a short duration, but it was running rough and I tried to rev the engine and it refused to do so.
Now before I replaced the distributor cap, I am on a limited budget and I can only afford one part at a time, I was driving home from work. I work approximately 49 miles from home, and on the way home the skipping got worse, the car began to slow down, despite me pushing on the accelerator, and when I pulled over the catalytic converter set the grass on fire. I moved the vehicle and stomped the grass out.
Then I parked the car until payday when I could afford the cap. when that didn't work, I had to park the car until next payday when I could buy a rotor button.
And now car still won't start.
Help.

Post by **RussB** » 15 Nov 2015, 11:34

Have the codes read, that's free

dwsteele21 · Post by **dwsteele21** » 15 Nov 2015, 12:28

RussB, would love to, but car won't start and is stuck in my driveway.

Post by **FLXC90** » 15 Nov 2015, 13:24

You replaced the cap, did you move the wires according to the way they were on the old cap? Certain manuals have the wiring order wrong in their diagrams. Also, what kind of wires did you get? Are they no-name or generic wires, or are they Bougicord/Volvo? When you pulled the cap and rotor, was there a lot of oil/gunk under the cap? How are the plugs themselves?

These cars get picky about ignition parts. Also, if your intake cam seal is leaking, it will seep oil into the area under the distributor cap, and oil and condensation will break down your contacts.

Is there a pick n' pull type wrecking yard near you?

dwsteele21 · Post by **dwsteele21** » 15 Nov 2015, 13:28

FLXC90,
I replaced the wires one by one, and the car ran for a day or two, it didn't begin refusing to start until after I replaced the cap and rotor.
I didn't see any oil on anything when I replaced the cap.

Post by **FLXC90** » 15 Nov 2015, 13:35

Alright, that takes out the easiest stuff. You say it won't start, does it crank the same as usual and just won't run by itself? If so, next thing to check would be fuel and fuel/pressure. When you turn the key to pos II (dash lights, no starter) can you hear the fuel pump run? Take a rag and check for fuel at the valve at the driver's side end of the fuel rail. (little blue valve cap like on a tire)

Post by **FLXC90** » 15 Nov 2015, 13:38

, that is IF it's not the ignition. Pull one of the spark plugs, and hold it with the wire attached, using something insulted, just above the motor, have someone crank the car, and see if you have spark at the plug.

Post by **BEJinFbk** » 15 Nov 2015, 14:47

Codes will save you a lot of time.
Do you have a Check Engine Light?
Know anyone with a reader?

Just a thought - Sounds almost like a clogged cat.
Engines that can't breath don't run well. How many miles?

dwsteele21 · Post by **dwsteele21** » 16 Nov 2015, 02:08

BejinFbk, that could be a possibility. The cat. did get extremely hot a few nights before rotor button was replaced.
The car has 196,000 miles on it.

dwsteele21 · Post by **dwsteele21** » 21 Nov 2015, 09:02

Update, turns out spark plugs were wet. Now, car ran well on the way to work. But got stranded at work. I work around mechanics, so couple checked it out and I ended up replacing the ignition coil. But that didn't work. Checked fuel rail, and the car has fuel pressure. Now, does any one want to buy a Volvo for parts?