Cam seal replacement without removing t belt?

TylerW71 · Post by **TylerW71** » 30 Nov 2015, 16:31

Has anyone ever snuck the cam seal out and in without pulling the entire front dress apart on a B230FT?

I just did the timing belt and seals 1k ago and the wonderful elring cam seal I used after reading allllll those posts about only use elring....is leaking. PCV maintenance already done. Temp catch can caught only minimal oil residue, mostly condensate. Thanks.

lummert · Post by **lummert** » 01 Dec 2015, 06:06

Can't remove the seal without removing the cam gear.

Post by **mtd240** » 01 Dec 2015, 09:52

Don't use the orange Elring seals - only use OEM Genuine Volvo. Elring makes pretty good gaskets and such, but they just don't size the front oil seals correctly..

You can pull the cam seal out without pulling any of the lower end stuff. Pop off the upper timing belt cover. Turn the crank gear to get the engine to TDC. Loosen the tensioner, pull the belt off the cam gear, and clamp it somewhere out of the way - make sure it is pulled taught so nothing turns while you're working on the cam seal. Optimally, use some sort of plastic clamp so you don't damage the belt (or vice grips with a soft towel between the jagged jaws and the belt). Pull the cam gear and replace the seal. Make sure that the cam is at TDC when you pop the belt back on.

Hopefully that has enough info to get you going, unlike those shoddy Haynes manuals.
"How to replace engine: Remove engine. Install is reverse of removal."

lummert · Post by **lummert** » 01 Dec 2015, 15:44

mtd240 wrote:Don't use the orange Elring seals - only use OEM Genuine Volvo. Elring makes pretty good gaskets and such, but they just don't size the front oil seals correctly..

You can pull the cam seal out without pulling any of the lower end stuff. Pop off the upper timing belt cover. Turn the crank gear to get the engine to TDC. Loosen the tensioner, pull the belt off the cam gear, and clamp it somewhere out of the way - make sure it is pulled taught so nothing turns while you're working on the cam seal. Optimally, use some sort of plastic clamp so you don't damage the belt (or vice grips with a soft towel between the jagged jaws and the belt). Pull the cam gear and replace the seal. Make sure that the cam is at TDC when you pop the belt back on.

Hopefully that has enough info to get you going, unlike those shoddy Haynes manuals.
"How to replace engine: Remove engine. Install is reverse of removal."

I like that Haynes reference.

Post by **benpineapple** » 07 Dec 2015, 10:22

lummert is right.

Pointer on installing seals: when setting the new seal, use a piece of PVC pipe to ensure even pressure when putting it in. Make sure it's lightly oiled on the contact side. Set it 1-2mm in from flush. If it goes in too far, oil will blow right past it.