Timing Belt and Serpentine Belt-- A few simple questions

viper69 · Post by **viper69** » 18 Dec 2015, 21:04

I recently replaced the Serpentine belt on my Volvo. The last time I replaced it the mileage was 105,000 in 2010. Based on my sig file, is this an average life expectancy for this type of belt?

Second, is the Timing Belt. I know it's critical. and I have a feeling I'm living on borrowed time. The belt was last changed at 69,222 miles in 2003.

What's more important, the mileage or the years the belt has been in the car? I've never had to change the belt, so this one is a new one for me.

And when I bring the car in to replace the timing belt, is there anything else that should be changed as well?

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 18 Dec 2015, 22:19

What's more important, the mileage or the years the belt has been in the car? I've never had to change the belt, so this one is a new one for me.

Yes.

You are way overdue on time (7 years) but since I don't know the current number of miles on the car I don't know about that limit (70,000 interval).

I have never had a timing belt break all on its own, it has always been something else that fails in the timing belt path that takes it out. That said, I've never had one that I tried to milk 13 years out of either.

On the second timing belt change I always change the tensioner, the tensioner roller, the idler roller, and the water pump. In short, I change everything except the crankshaft sprocket and the camshaft sprockets that the timing belt touches. Many people wait until the water pump starts to leak or squeak but I have replaced a couple that showed no visible signs of wear yet it was tearing itself up internally. The impeller was grinding on the housing on both of them.

...Lee

Post by **abscate** » 19 Dec 2015, 00:38

122k per the .sig, so oP is near end of life on miles and overdue on time.

I'm a risk taker, so I would recommend planning on this in the next few months. If it breaks it's a 1500-2000 job to do the head and valves with your own labor. There are many here who will park the car until the TB belt is done and I can't fault them for that, either.

Post by **cn90** » 19 Dec 2015, 10:42

Your best bet is to search forum for "expected lifespan" for each components inside the timing compartment.

For ex, regarding 1993-1998 5-cyl engines with Hydraulic tensioner...most people say Aisin water pump lasts some 180K-200K etc.
- Hydraulic tensioner 180K-200K
- Pulleys about 150K, then noisy.
- The TB itself is very good and easily lasts 150K. Time is another issue, dry rot can happen at ___ years etc.

Anyway, search forum for info.

Post by **rspi** » 19 Dec 2015, 19:13

Time 7 years, miles 70,000. Why risk it? If I drove 90,000 miles in 2 years, the belt wouldn't scare me as much, it's so young. Then again, why risk so much damage. If you are not a diy'er, that will be the end of the car likely.

For any parts over 10 years old in the path, I replace all, water pump, both rollers and the belt.

viper69 · Post by **viper69** » 21 Dec 2015, 16:29

Thanks guys. Let me mention I wasn't stretching the amount of time I could get away w/out changing the timing belt. I simply lost track of when it was replaced primarily because I wasn't the owner when the stock belt was replaced. This will be my first time replacing it.

This is what was replaced a few days ago:

Serpentine Belt
Serpentine Belt Tensioner
Heater Core

My mechanic came back with a quote when I mentioned getting the timing belt changed. I don't know what brand/s he's sourcing for the parts below. just the price and the parts. Their labor rate is $120.00/hr. The stealership out here is $185-190/hr for comparison.

My questions are the following:

1. Would you replace all of the items listed below?
2. If not, would you rank in order of importance what should be replaced (I know the timing belt is #1), that is, what should be done right now, versus what can wait a bit. I only put on about 5,000 miles/yr on this car if that helps you.
3. What are Iridium Spark Plugs. I know iridium is an element on the Periodic Table of the Elements. He told me they cost about $20.00 a piece!

Mechanic Quote:

1. Timing Belt and Water Pump $993.10
2.Transmission $263.55
3. Fuel Filter $135.18
4. Iridium Spark Plugs $217.40

All done including tax comes out to be $1,667.18

Post by **erikv11** » 21 Dec 2015, 16:44

Iridium plugs are loved by some, scoffed at by others. They will certainly work well, no question, the issue is if they are worth it. They do last a very long time so if you want to just be done with it, that might be a good way to go. Here is some unbiased info (there is also plenty of biased info available!): https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=54863

Timing bet and H2O pump yes, but at this price the parts MUST be Volvo branded or equivalent.
Transmission - what is this, a fluid flush? If so, yes but ouch.
Fuel Filter - drive it by my house, I will do it for $50 (and still feel bad about price gouging).
Plugs - You can buy 5 copper plugs for about $11, and they will work well for a long time. I just can;t fathom paying $200 for plugs.

Summary: transmission fluid and fuel filter and plugs are not urgent, surely you can get those done more cheaply. But if you have the cash, go for it. plugs 1, filter 2, trans fluid 3.

Post by **cn90** » 21 Dec 2015, 16:51

1. TB and 2 pulleys: yes replace them. At 122,500 miles (per your signature), then keep the Aisin WP, good until 180K.
2. Trans flush: $3/qt x 12 = $36. I do 4 cycles of flush.
3. Fuel Filter is a 30-min job, about $17-$20 for Mahle, Mann, Bosch etc.
4. Iridium spark plugs: I use them and love them, info in forum, $7/each x5 = $35, good for 80K-100K.

All of those stuff are in forum, search for them.

Post by **dosbricks** » 21 Dec 2015, 18:48

viper69, you don't list your location, so "out here" may be Orange County--nevertheless, if you are quoting USD pricing, this mechanic is fixing to take you to the cleaners.

viper69 · Post by **viper69** » 22 Dec 2015, 19:47

Thanks all for your input. I can't get email alerts so my replies are sporadic.

I actually don't know if it's a transmission flush. I will have to call them back and check, good question. If so, I can't imagine why it's so expensive, unless the fluid is pricey?

Erik thanks for the info on the plugs. I will go with a set of copper plugs based on what I was reading, to save money for now I suspect.
I had one or 2 bad plugs go in the mid 2000s and I don't recall them being iridium plugs at all, though I will check the receipt from the service.

I'm curious, my vehicle is a non-turbo. If my plugs were getting old etc, what would/should I notice?? I've only replaced an entire set on a different car, a Toyota, and honestly, I couldn't tell the difference before or after they were replaced.