OK, went downstairs and jumped the fuses 4 to 6, heard the pumps running, crank the engine, not starting.
This excempts the fuel pumps relay as a suspect of my problem.
I will check for spark tomorrow.
thanks
No Start 1989 240 LH jetronic 2.4 - B230F.
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sergitin32
- Posts: 176
- Joined: 11 February 2007
- Year and Model: 1989 240 DL , 1995 9
- Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
- Has thanked: 8 times
- Been thanked: 3 times
Re: No Start 1989 240 LH jetronic 2.4 - B230F.
1989 Volvo 240DL , 1995 Volvo 960 Sedan , 1995 VW Rialta , 1987 VW Cabriolet
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sergitin32
- Posts: 176
- Joined: 11 February 2007
- Year and Model: 1989 240 DL , 1995 9
- Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
- Has thanked: 8 times
- Been thanked: 3 times
OK this is what I did today and it started first touch two times... idles fine too.
Now, the battery was super charged (12.91 Volts in there) so it is a matter of using it a little and see how this voltage is doing.
Then in a week or so see if the non start behaviour comes back.
I will check tomorrow for alternator output and voltage regulator stuff to check on the charging system.
Today I cleaned all the fuses and fuse box conectors. I am thinking about getting the one from my car, since mine looks inmaculate, coppery and brand new, its just a matter of checkign if it has the same amount of conexions.
Eliminate the gray two wires plastic plug than hooks the + and neg wires from the power stage to the coil, and carries signal to a tach in the dashboard, which i dont have here but I do in my donor car. Cleaned the contacts and plug these wires and taped them. Cleaned off some redundant wiring for audio equipment in the battery suround and re routed the stock wires better.
Restored the coil and power steering pump to their stock position, it was loose and the coil was there with an aftermarket braket. Also hanged and cleaned the 25Amps blade fuse to where it is suposed to go. CLeaned a bunch of old electric tape and ductape work on electric cables... made things neat and conections clean pretty much.
Checked both ignition coils for primary and secondary resistance and installed the stock coil one back, the blue has a ballast resistor incorporated in the primary circuit for 3.5 Ohms total. The secondary within parameters 8,9 Kohms but the stock one is totally cool 0.9 primary and 7,5 secondary, so I put it back there.
Moved ignition switch to position 2, heard the pump acting for a second or so, so there should be fuel, I thought. Checked for 12V in the positive contact of the coil, it was good to go, twisted the key and in a jiffy it started. Wobbled a little for idle at the begining, but then all good.
Went for a test ride, the seats feel great like new but even stronger. I reinforced the foam with fabric and put two straps of seat belt material in the back rest for reinforcement of the back foam.
The indicators light were not working, dang... on my way back wiggled the fuse in its contacts and they started workign again, wheeeww...
Then did a bunch stuff to my old car since my strata is giving me a head ache about it, tried to make it look like a complete car so some people wont feel ofended by it, jesus and mary christmass is gone and now it's back to the guns, forgive them lord... lol. so after 30 minutes or so I checked again and it started as a champ... again the battery was still super charged so, will come back here later to tell how is it going in a week or so.
I am very happy.
Thanks 93Regina. Happy new year.
Sergitin32.
Now, the battery was super charged (12.91 Volts in there) so it is a matter of using it a little and see how this voltage is doing.
Then in a week or so see if the non start behaviour comes back.
I will check tomorrow for alternator output and voltage regulator stuff to check on the charging system.
Today I cleaned all the fuses and fuse box conectors. I am thinking about getting the one from my car, since mine looks inmaculate, coppery and brand new, its just a matter of checkign if it has the same amount of conexions.
Eliminate the gray two wires plastic plug than hooks the + and neg wires from the power stage to the coil, and carries signal to a tach in the dashboard, which i dont have here but I do in my donor car. Cleaned the contacts and plug these wires and taped them. Cleaned off some redundant wiring for audio equipment in the battery suround and re routed the stock wires better.
Restored the coil and power steering pump to their stock position, it was loose and the coil was there with an aftermarket braket. Also hanged and cleaned the 25Amps blade fuse to where it is suposed to go. CLeaned a bunch of old electric tape and ductape work on electric cables... made things neat and conections clean pretty much.
Checked both ignition coils for primary and secondary resistance and installed the stock coil one back, the blue has a ballast resistor incorporated in the primary circuit for 3.5 Ohms total. The secondary within parameters 8,9 Kohms but the stock one is totally cool 0.9 primary and 7,5 secondary, so I put it back there.
Moved ignition switch to position 2, heard the pump acting for a second or so, so there should be fuel, I thought. Checked for 12V in the positive contact of the coil, it was good to go, twisted the key and in a jiffy it started. Wobbled a little for idle at the begining, but then all good.
Went for a test ride, the seats feel great like new but even stronger. I reinforced the foam with fabric and put two straps of seat belt material in the back rest for reinforcement of the back foam.
The indicators light were not working, dang... on my way back wiggled the fuse in its contacts and they started workign again, wheeeww...
Then did a bunch stuff to my old car since my strata is giving me a head ache about it, tried to make it look like a complete car so some people wont feel ofended by it, jesus and mary christmass is gone and now it's back to the guns, forgive them lord... lol. so after 30 minutes or so I checked again and it started as a champ... again the battery was still super charged so, will come back here later to tell how is it going in a week or so.
I am very happy.
Thanks 93Regina. Happy new year.
Sergitin32.
1989 Volvo 240DL , 1995 Volvo 960 Sedan , 1995 VW Rialta , 1987 VW Cabriolet
-
sergitin32
- Posts: 176
- Joined: 11 February 2007
- Year and Model: 1989 240 DL , 1995 9
- Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
- Has thanked: 8 times
- Been thanked: 3 times
In these couple weeks the car has been starting perfectly every time.
I suspect that some of the components i cleaned were the main culprit:
- fuse panel
-fuel injection 25Amps blade fuse at engine bay
-gray conector with a wire going to the EZK and one to the tach (blue and red/white)
-kept the stock coil after Regina93 told me they are specific per system in the car.
-recharged battery.
So thats it I believe. The car is starting, idling and going just fine.
I apreciate the help here.
Sergio.
I suspect that some of the components i cleaned were the main culprit:
- fuse panel
-fuel injection 25Amps blade fuse at engine bay
-gray conector with a wire going to the EZK and one to the tach (blue and red/white)
-kept the stock coil after Regina93 told me they are specific per system in the car.
-recharged battery.
So thats it I believe. The car is starting, idling and going just fine.
I apreciate the help here.
Sergio.
1989 Volvo 240DL , 1995 Volvo 960 Sedan , 1995 VW Rialta , 1987 VW Cabriolet
-
sergitin32
- Posts: 176
- Joined: 11 February 2007
- Year and Model: 1989 240 DL , 1995 9
- Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
- Has thanked: 8 times
- Been thanked: 3 times
I completely forgot about this thread, so sorry for not coming with feedback.
It happened to be the main fuel 25AMP fuse just by the battery. I took it out gave it a clean and the car started, and so far still going.
Apologies for the late feedback.
It happened to be the main fuel 25AMP fuse just by the battery. I took it out gave it a clean and the car started, and so far still going.
Apologies for the late feedback.
1989 Volvo 240DL , 1995 Volvo 960 Sedan , 1995 VW Rialta , 1987 VW Cabriolet
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