2001 XC 2.4T PCV fiasco

Moneypitowner · Post by **Moneypitowner** » 06 Jan 2016, 20:44

Hello folks, my first post. Figured I'd join this helpful site since volvos are a different breed and after buying a v70 XC 2.4t, I figured the site would get some use. Here goes:
After searching forever for how Tos on PCV overhaul for this particular vehicle, I found one that looked similar to mine, how much variance could there be right? UNIMAGINABLELY different! First of all, the turbo hasn't been covered, that I can find. Since the tube going over the top of the engine is, well, where it is, the tube that goes to the throttle unit is under the intake manifold. The fuel rail is off at the moment, however the supply hardline is snaked up through the intake! How do I get the intake off?!

The hard line coming across the front side of the intake is preventing the IM from coming out as well, is it pressurized? Can I disconnect from what looks to be the thermostat housing?

I had to take all six 10mm bolts holding the IM on, when lifting it with only the top bolts on, it bumps up against the overhang on top of the engine, where the plugs/coils are. It won't just slide up and off. Not to mention all those ****ing crimp clamps connected to the UNDERSIDE of the IM! Oh and the insulated line going up under the IM and back around to the back side of the engine compartment, is attached underneath the IM, no nipple and clamp, how do I deal with THAT?! I'm freaking out since this is one of two (the other being borrowed) functioning vehicles I have, and it's in my dads garage at the moment...in pieces.
I'd love some help guys. PLEASE!

Post by **scot850** » 06 Jan 2016, 23:33

Ok, let's break this down to the parts you actually need help with, and we may need you to help clarify:

1) The hard metal fuel pipe. Is there a Schraeder valve on your injector rail? If so you can carefully push the end in (like a bicycle tire valve) to release pressure. Have a rag handy to catch any fuel released.

2) To separate the metal line there is a special tool that is needed. Not special to Volvo but for fuel line separation. If you look at the 'cone' in your 1st picture, the tool slides into the cone on the LH side as viewed. IT can be sticky, but it will release the 2 parts of the hard pipe. You may have to bend the hard pipes carefully to allow the to pass through the gaps in the IM.

3) The turbo inlet pipe from the intercooler to the ETM on the IM. This is very fiddly. There is a 7mm hex headed bolt on a pipe clamp under the ETM. If it has been fitted in the correct position, it is usually on the RH side as viewed in your picture of the ETM. This needs to be loosened to allow the plastic pipe to release from under the ETM.

4) The clamps that Volvo use are Oetiker clamps. They can be removed by carefully inserting a small screw driver on one side of the crimp where there is a little lug. You have to bend them outward to break the seal. Don't get too rough or you may brake any plastic fittings/pipes. These clamps are not re-usable. In most cases you can use regular hose clamps to replace them.

5) If you can take a photo of the braided pipe you are talking about at the end nearest the IM end, I may be able to tell you how to remove it.

This job is a bit of a pain first time around, but take your time. Take many pictures to remind you which pipes go where.

Hope this helps to get you further on the path.

Neil.

Post by **abscate** » 07 Jan 2016, 05:17

You have to remove the dipstick bolt and the Hard pipe ( hard pipe on left side of engine, towards front of car) to free up the IM...is that EGR, someone??

You release the fuel line with a " fuel line release tool" available at your FLAPs

This is an all day, 6 hour job for a first timer experienced with tools, longer if you don't what a computer punch card is.

You should remove that radiator hose too, you are going to leak coolant when you remove your PCV since your cool 2001 is kept warm by engine coolant...one reason it doesn't clog as much.

Keep the faith, we will get you home.

You just need to unscrew the lower IM bolts without removing. Put them back in through the gasket to reinstall or else you die in your garage trying to finish. Kally will find them for you if you drop one.

Moneypitowner · Post by **Moneypitowner** » 07 Jan 2016, 10:31

I appreciate the help so far y'all. Yeah that 7mm pipe clamp was an absolute b**** to get to... Had to take it off after most everything else was loose because it was situated with the screw pointing towards the engine block! Thankfully it was loose enough that yanking on it in slight desperation caused it to rotate and I reached in from the right side of the IM, up underneath with a socket.

The dipstick bolt on top is one of the first things I took off. It's still in the way, and the handle broke off in my dealings with other components. Earlier versions of this vehicle supposedly have a lower bolt on the dipstick tube? Cannot find it on this one. Do I just yank it out to release the seal where it connects?

I was hoping to not have to take the coolant hose to the thermostat... Crap

As far as the lower IM bolts, yeah, they're out already. It won't come out by just sliding it up, as I said. Now I did get quite irate at the 8 mile long, fine threaded bolts

. Is this so you can really back them out... I mean really. Cause I can see possibly rocking the IM back (with EVERY other obstruction in the front side removed, which obviously I hadn't figured out so far) and it possibly clearing the top side of the block that overhangs it. Oh well, I do know that putting them in first is the way to go, but only if I can lean it towards me enough to get it back in that way.

As far as the insulated line underneath, that goes to the back of the compartment ( what is this specifically?) , it is connected without a clamp and I don't foresee getting this of in a friendly manner, since its preventing me from getting the IM off, which it seems needs to be done in order to get the hose off :/ ... It must be the "don't break this really expensive, delicate connection, catch22 pipe..

Post by **precopster** » 07 Jan 2016, 13:58

Aren't we all forgetting something?

Under the intake manifold is a 17mm banjo bolt close to the thermostat. Feel under there; it faces up and totally prevents removal of the intake manifold.

When releasing the bolt get ready to catch the upper and lower copper washers as they fall to the ground.

The union that the banjo bolt tightens is the one that carries coolant.

Trust me there is almost no way to get that manifold back on withoit bending/damaging the fuel line unless you remove that black safety catch and use a fuel line release tool. The shape of the fuel line prevents it going back on.

Just yank and twist the dipstick again and again. Try not to knock yourself out when it releases

Moneypitowner · Post by **Moneypitowner** » 07 Jan 2016, 14:46

Thanks precopster, sounds like you have an intimate knowledge of that engine compartment.

Post by **scot850** » 07 Jan 2016, 16:26

The other guys have added more intimate knowledge for this particular version of this engine, but you are getting there!

Keep the faith and we will get you there!

Neil.

Moneypitowner · Post by **Moneypitowner** » 07 Jan 2016, 17:18

So these two things are keeping me from getting the intake manifold off. The first being what it looks like a power steering hose, since it's connected to the power steering fluid reservoir. The second being that insulated line connected to the IM and running underneath of it.

: Does this have fluid in it?

Will fluid come out that I need to guard the alternator from? Or does the pump have to be running for fluid to come out?

: Yank it?

This attaches to the bottom of the IM . Any tips?

Post by **abscate** » 07 Jan 2016, 19:32

Power steering hoses dont interfere unless someone has put in none stock.

The PCV attaches to the IM at the banjo holt Mike talks about up thread.

Picture of the PCV foam pipe showing the banjo bolt...that's the only place they connect

Ps...get some paper into those fuel injector holes before you drop something in them and really mess up your day.

Post by **vtl** » 07 Jan 2016, 19:32

Drain the radiator (be careful not to crack the petcock... or buy a replacement before you start the job). Flooding alternator with coolant will automatically mean you'll have bearings and/or diodes shot in no time.

Drain the block as well, or coolant will flood everything when you remove second banjo bolt from the block on driver's side. Petcock is located on passenger side on the back. Make sure you don't flood CV axle's carriage bearing, which is located right under petcock.

One bolt of oil trap is hidden. I didn't want to remove half of compartment to get to it, so I just broke a piece of trap off. Maybe I did something wrong, but keep in mind.

I did PCV on a 2.5T engine first time in life in like 9 hours. Was frustrated a few times, but overall it's not that bad.