Drive belt tensioner replacement - 02 V70 2.4T

neworleans · Post by **neworleans** » 06 Apr 2016, 11:38

Hello all,

My tensioner started to make noise and I am looking to replace it. Tried to find a write up but couldn't find anythig, It doesn't seem that complicated, I'd appreciate it if you can give me some tips or some guidance beforehand.

Thanks.

Post by **regent** » 06 Apr 2016, 11:53

Here is a hint:
Replace timing belt tensioner

Depending on how recently the timing belt job was done, you may want to change some other components besides the tensioner itself, since you are at it.
If you look up 'Timing Belt' in the forums Repair Database, there are quite a few useful write-ups

Post by **chrism** » 06 Apr 2016, 15:05

I believe neworleans is talking about the accessory drive belt, not the timing belt.

Just make note of how the belt is routed so that you can get the next one on properly. The tensioner, as you have probably figured out already, is spring loaded and can be pulled away from the belt with a large torx bit with some sort of long handle or cheater bar. Some of the tensioners have a hex bolt in the center of the pulley that you can get on with a socket and breaker bar to pull the tensioner back. The biggest issue I find with R&R'ing the belt is the tight quarters you're working in.

Post by **precopster** » 06 Apr 2016, 16:09

There is either a 14mm bolt or a torx 40 securing the tensioner pulley. Just a standard thread (not reverse) and some thread compound on the bolt.

If you want to remove the tensioner as a whole there are 2 x 12mm bolts holding it in place.

neworleans · Post by **neworleans** » 07 Apr 2016, 12:45

Thank you guys, the link below is what I found at FCP but seems like there is only one bolt hole to install, is the other one hidden?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... er-99-plus

Post by **chrism** » 07 Apr 2016, 13:10

If you look at both views of the tensioner in the FCP ad, you'll see that there are actually two mounting holes. (One hole visible in one photo - the other hole visible in the other photo) One of the holes is further away from the business part of the tensioner than the other hole is.

http://www.autopartsapi.com/eEuroparts. ... 11abbf.gif

Hope this helps.

neworleans · Post by **neworleans** » 07 Apr 2016, 14:19

Thank you so much, perfect!

Checksix · Post by **Checksix** » 09 Apr 2016, 17:27

If it is making noise (I.E. the bearing), there is an option to just replace the pulley and leave the tensioner in place. If it is the 14 mm hex style, you can just unscrew the bolt and then pull the old off and on with the new. Tightening this bolt can be a pain, as the spring tensioner moves. I'd recommend a dab of thread locker (blue). If it is the newer style and there is no 14 mm bolt to be seen on the pulley, then you have to take off the plastic cap in front to expose the large torx bolt. Add some thread locker as it is installed.

This can all be done from the top and was a pretty simple effort for me, but I've been building cars for 40 years, but I can see someone of limited experience doing this. It's all about tool selection. Mine was the 14 mm bolt, and I used a 14 mm ratchet wrench that had a slight bend offset. I put a pipe over it then pulled to the right to relieve the tension on the belt so it could be removed 1st.

Good luck, please let us know how it goes!

Checksix