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Brake Flare Nut to Hose Rusted Stuck

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

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PeteB
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Brake Flare Nut to Hose Rusted Stuck

Post by PeteB »

This is not a Volvo so I hope you all don't mind. This was a Massachusetts car
and it is badly rusted. It needs new flex hoses to the rear calipers and I can't
break the flare fitting to the hose. I've been putting on PB Blaster and WD 40
for the last few days, tried heat from a propane torch on the hose side with no
luck. Any suggestions? I'm hoping that I don't have to cut it and flare it again,
have not done flaring before.

TIA, Pete

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

Can you get two big vice grips tight on both sides?

Use PB and time...as in apply a …5 second shot each day for a week, then tap lightly with a hammer to help the PB get in.
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PeteB
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Post by PeteB »

The hose side has flats for a 17mm wrench and it is holding tight, you have
correctly figured that the nut is starting to get rounded, I'm a bit worried
about crushing it with vice grips but yes I can get them on. Its been about
3 days applying PB 3 times a day, I'll keep trying.

I'll probably buy the small Napa flare tool to get ready to cut it, but I've never
done a flare before. Luckily there is a hook in the line leaving enough to do a
new flare.

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JRev
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Post by JRev »

if you have to flare the line, you can flare easily using a tool such as this


I used that to reflare all brake lines on car without any experience and haven't had any leaks. It will produce a perfect flare every time. I'm sure there is a similar tool in usa, or order from ebay (international shipping). Search for "Powerhand brake pipe flaring tool" But if you order, confirm the type of flare you require, such as double/single flare or din flare.
Last edited by JRev on 19 Apr 2016, 06:20, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by renns »

Heat does wonders, but propane is pretty cool as far as flame temps go. Get some MAPP gas, or oxy-acet torch set, and those miserable fittings can often be convinced. Cut the hose off prior, as it'll need replacing anyways. You've got that fire extinguisher handy, right?
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Post by oragex »

If you don't need the car to run right now, try spraying it a bit daily (also wire brush the rust off), during 1-2 weeks. The longer the better

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Post by Herb Goltz »

Try cutting the rubber hose and then use a good quality 6 point socket. Good luck!
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PeteB
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Post by PeteB »

Finally gave this morning, all set. Thanks everyone.
I put the vice grips on real tight since I was about ready to cut it.

PeteB
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Post by PeteB »

This guy does a nice job showing how to flare, and comparing two tools:


I was going to buy this NAPA (SER161A) tool that is small for tight spots
and a good price, people say that it works well also:
http://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/SER161A#

Looks like I won't need it, but maybe in the future.

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Post by abscate »

PeteB wrote:Finally gave this morning, all set. Thanks everyone.
I put the vice grips on real tight since I was about ready to cut it.
Nice. Its great to feel the power of persuasion.

I know people sneer at Vice Grips (tm) as a hack tool, but the reality is your custom platinum plated/priced set of Snap-On flare nut wrenches....no longer fit a 18 year old fastener in New England Salt. Ive found them to be a good tool of choice on these when stuck.

On edit - added (tm) to Vice Grips. Dont use cheap ones of this. Get the real deal, or at least Kobalt.
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