Tips on replacing tie rod ends?

Post by **lext** » 24 Apr 2016, 22:33

I guess I must sound like such a noob, but I don't see a good way to get the outer tie rod off. Here I'm talking about the stop nut that is near the inside of the car. It's 22mm. I can put a wrench on it, and I can stop the tie rod from turning with a vice grip. But in that space, a wrench and a vice grip do not generate anywhere near the amount of torque that I need to make the nut loose. And the nut is in the middle of a long rod, so I can't put a socket and a break bar in there.

Anyone has done the same thing? Do you have any tips as to how to break it loose? thanks.

Post by **polskamafia mjl** » 24 Apr 2016, 23:05

Post by **lext** » 26 Apr 2016, 11:42

Ha I actually watched that before I tried the job. But he made it sounds so easy. He said "then I put a wrench on that bolt, and I break that bolt loose"

bugs11 · Post by **bugs11** » 26 Apr 2016, 12:51

PB Blaster is your friend.

Post by **rspi** » 26 Apr 2016, 15:02

The inner's are cheap enough to just do both.

PS78 · Post by **PS78** » 26 Apr 2016, 20:04

When I did my outers I saturated the stop nut with copious amounts of wd40 and put the largest adjustable I had on it.( It just barely fit in the wheel well 15" adj) made quick work of it.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 26 Apr 2016, 21:11

count the thread or mark the one you take out...you'll still need an alignment but this way you at least get close.

Post by **sleddriver** » 30 Apr 2016, 03:11

I just recently removed both of mine for replacing torn steering rack boots and to inspect the inner TR's. Weren't particularly difficult to bust the nut loose. I remember giving the wrench holding the nut a good whack with a small sledgehammer while the innter TR flat was held with another wrench wedged between the lower control arm and the axle. Remember that the directions are reversed when looking at it! Don't make it even tighter when you think you're loosening it. I was also careful to measure the length using a dial caliper so I could put it back exactly at the same length. Worked fine. No weird handling/pulling problems afterwards.

Post by **lext** » 11 May 2016, 01:01

Thanks guys. Yeah sleddriver I do remember trying to make sure I wasn't tightening it (made that mistake a few times before, mind you). But next time I try I'll double check it again.

I have another silly question to ask, it's pretty basic and silly I'm not sure if I should create a new thread for it. So I order some new struts, and when they arrive the shiny metal part (the small "stick" at the top) is much shorter than what I remember it should be. I guess that's only because it's pushed down for packaging/transport, and there must be a way to make it "longer" somehow? I went through the instructions (just some sheets of paper) and they don't seem to mention that at all. Is there something I've missed? Thanks.

Post by **lext** » 04 Jul 2016, 23:46

Just an update on this since I managed to get this done earlier today. On sleddriver's suggestion I put an adjustable wrench between the axle and control arm, and then use a hammer to knock the nut off in the "loosy" direction (make sure you know which direction that is). It does come out fairly easily after a few knocks. The other nut (the one attached to the wheel) also requires a few knocks. However the hardest part for the other nut for me is to find a 18mm wrench. It's a pretty rare size - most of the metric sets I saw only have 17mm and 19mm. I finally found one at Sears for $10. (I find that the space is not enough to attach an adjustable wrench there, unless I turn the wrench handle to the inside. But then I cannot use a hammer anymore).

I've attached a picture of the setup to break the inside nut here, this is for the passenger side's wheel well. (The one shiny rod is the sway-bar end links I just replaced).