Login Register

New Front Control Arms or just bushings?

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » Control Arm Bushings - Buy Whole New Control Arms?
Post Reply
MadeInJapan
MVS Moderator
Posts: 13434
Joined: 31 March 2005
Year and Model: '98 S70 T5 '07S40T5
Location: Knoxville, TN American but born in Japan
Has thanked: 17 times
Been thanked: 35 times

Volvo Repair Database New Front Control Arms or just bushings?

Post by MadeInJapan »

So, I'm going to load up some pictures of my wife's '04 V70 with 167K miles on it...it rides smoothly and nothing seems out of the ordinary. It has fairly new front struts, with all new IPD spring seats and end links in front and new shocks and end links in the back. All shocks/struts are Sachs/Boge (blue label) and about a month ago I installed the poly bushing tightening pieces in her sub-frame bushings. Tires wear evenly too, but our roads are pretty decent here in TN.

Here is one of her front (passenger side) control arm with the front facing bushing...
Control Arm.JPG
This is a close up of the bushing
Bushing.JPG
Personally, I think it looks pretty decent for the age of the car. I don't think it needs replacing...yet.

So my son came over today and I did some maintenance work on his car. While under It, I saw his bushings and they were torn on the left and right sides (up and down) on each of his front bushing (passenger and drive's side) as I could see light through them...the top was attached but still the bushing was torn, or it seemed. Maybe that's okay... as long as the top and bottom are attached? His is a '07 2.5T - really the same car as my wife's V70 except for in the sedan format so I don't think that his bushing would be any different, or are they? His car has about 112K miles on it now while hers has 167K (65K more) miles so that's another odd thing regarding why one seems torn and the other is not. If you ask me which drives better, his does. There are no suspension issues, nor is there any strange tire wear. I do not know the history of his car's suspension work- I assume it's all stock from the factory. But none-the-less, his car is a pleasure to drive!

After all of this, my question is, should I work with him to replace that front bushing, or is it better to just replace the control arm altogether? Or is this unnecessary? I'm thinking we still have some time but if the rubber bushing is already torn, it's a matter of time before it deteriorates or causes other bushings to wear out too, or am I wrong here? For those who have been through this, is it typically for just that one bushing to go or does the rear one on the control arm also go? With that answered, should I replace the arm, should I also be looking at replacing the ball joint, or can I resuse it if it's still good? All of this can add up to some $$'s, right? I'm inclined to just go after the front bushing in his control arm if the other components still have life but need to know if that's practical or not.

Any comments/opinions from those who have been through this? If I'm just replacing that bushing, I know I have a lot of choices: from Volvo, Lemfoerder to name just two, and now, Powerflex makes a poly bushing for that spot (eeuroparts.com) and all of them out there (except for Volvo's) are fairly reasonable. Oh, and I forgot, there's IPD's HD control arm too which seems pretty reputable. I was reading on another site that the thing to do is replace the front with Powerflex and the rear bushing with Volvo's, if we are pushing out and in bushings in the original control arm. I have no issue with pressing the bushings. I have access to someone who does this everyday so that doesn't scare me. Anyway, the scenario's go on and on. I'd just like to have some discussion here about this and get your input so I'll know what to do when it's time to deal with these control arms.

Thanks in advance,
-MIJ
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo

MarcM
Posts: 183
Joined: 23 September 2015
Year and Model: 2005 S60 2.5T AWD
Location: Monadnock Region, New Hampshire
Has thanked: 1 time
Been thanked: 3 times

Post by MarcM »

I attempted the whole "change just the bushing" route. Destroyed tools and a control arm. Ended up just buying the FCP Euro HD poly control arm assemblies and flopping them in. I still have ProParts poly front bushing and Meyle rear bushing sitting here for the passenger side. Interesting paper weight / point of discussion / reminder on not being a skin flint.
2005 S60 2.5T AWD
IPD mods:
IPD HD PVC intercooler coupler/upper, HD Subframe poly inserts
ProPartsSweden HD top mount square mount, PPS lower torque rod & control arms.

User avatar
oragex
Posts: 5347
Joined: 24 May 2013
Year and Model: S60 2003
Location: Canada
Has thanked: 102 times
Been thanked: 352 times
Contact:

Post by oragex »

Where the wheels at full lock? The one on wife's car seems not in that bad of a shape. Maybe PO had already replaced them in the past? Mine looked worst and when I removed it from there it wasn't actually that bad inside.

Most people agree that installing these bushings is a pita

Being stubborn, I still went my way 8)

First problem: rear smaller bushing is not available in Lemforder. The front biggie one is sold by Lemforder. I don't know if Volvo sells them. Someone bought these off Ebay. He reported the front one died soon (poor install or fake product?). Maybe the seller puts Febi bushings in Volvo bags? http://www.ebay.com/itm/380805521482?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

From another listing I purchased 'original' Volvo front one for S60, and 'original' Volvo rear one for XC90. While the front one has kept up well, the XC90 one is not a full bushing and the steering is not tight enough.

Second problem: one needs special (read no where to be found) adapters. These adapters can however be home made
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 11&t=23405

I'd suggest taking a few shots before removing the front and rear old bushings
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =9&t=35056

I took my rubbers and went to a small garage. The guy didn't had the adapters, so he used some random adapters he had at hand. He also had a 6t press although some people say it takes a 20t press. So he did it only with his impact wrench and a thick rod. At some point the wrench wasn't strong enough, so the guy grabbed a massive hammer, put the adapter on the outer bushing metal ring (actually, he started by smashing the inner ring :o and when I said Hey! he goes like, see, that's why I don't let customers come watch me. Yeah right :lol: ). To resume, he punched the bushings in with no trouble, even with no grease. I was surprised. So with proper adapters, this can be done.

As for removing the old bushings, I had another funny experience. Reading over the net about burning the rubbed with a torch, I grabbed mine and put the fire on them. Those guys took the fire like a boss, I was really impressed. But they were still in one solid piece, only toasted a bit. So I grabbed my drill and in 5 easy minutes there was no more bushing. A groove is then cut in the outer ring which is not that thick.


If going the new Lemforder control arm, I'd check the small rear bushing is not Febi. I don't trust Febi after my spring seat failed within less than 6000 miles.

As for the poly bushings, they are not cheap and I've read about people reporting a little harshness in the suspension. Not all brands do last, Powerflex seems to be the reference.

Whatever the choice, make sure to get 4 new front control arm bolts (cheap from Volvo). They are not the same length on each side, and on drivers side I think the transmission has to be lifted a little to clear the bolt.

When the CA is removed, the ball joint can be checked by hand. It seems the original ones are very durable. When installing the new CA, I prefer removing the two large lower strut bolts.

vtl
Posts: 4724
Joined: 16 August 2012
Year and Model: 2005 XC70
Location: Boston
Has thanked: 114 times
Been thanked: 603 times

Post by vtl »

Forget about anything poly in this car if you favour silence and comfort over sporty and noisy feel.

Both OE and Lemforder are good. I had Lemforders for 40k miles in LCA when I was doing complete suspension rebuild with OE components, they still were good.

Cheap press from Harbor Freight is enough to do the job:

Image

New LCA is still easier, I'd go with Lemforder.

MadeInJapan
MVS Moderator
Posts: 13434
Joined: 31 March 2005
Year and Model: '98 S70 T5 '07S40T5
Location: Knoxville, TN American but born in Japan
Has thanked: 17 times
Been thanked: 35 times

Post by MadeInJapan »

Wow, great info in this thred! Orangex- thank you for the massive info- a bit overwhelming to say the least. From what I read, I don't trust Fibi either. Oh, and I do see Lemforder rear bushing on FCPEuro now, so maybe they do make that bushing now. Anyway, I'm thinking my best route may just be to get the IPD control arm when I do this task. To answer some questions- My wife's V70 did not have a previous owner. We have owned that car since it was new and the picture was not at full clock- it was taken last night from below the car with it in the garage so the wheels were pointing straight forward. On my son's car (the S60 which I'm questioning his bushing), you can see light on the right and left of that big bushing but the top and bottom are intact. The car rides fine, so am I being premature to think that this bushing is going out? Was there a design change at some point where only the top and bottom were solid in that bushing?
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo

MarcM
Posts: 183
Joined: 23 September 2015
Year and Model: 2005 S60 2.5T AWD
Location: Monadnock Region, New Hampshire
Has thanked: 1 time
Been thanked: 3 times

Post by MarcM »

vtl wrote:Forget about anything poly in this car if you favour silence and comfort over sporty and noisy feel.
That is a 100% undisputable comment, as witnessed by myself (that makes it Narcissistic Law right?). I have the poly front LCA bushings and the poly subframe inserts in the car. Personally, I love it. S in S60 to me means sport, not sedan. ;) A lot of the noise is cut out by decent tires as well (was running almost just casings, new sneaks a few weeks ago), but she handles QUITE well now. I've owned land yacht Cadillacs and Lincolns that float and feel disconnected, down to a Honda CRX Si that you feel like you're riding in an old metal-wheeled roller skate that skit-skatches around corners (yes, just made that term up... I think). She rides a bit like a yacht, but handles like a small sports coupe, even with the sheer mass these cars weigh.
2005 S60 2.5T AWD
IPD mods:
IPD HD PVC intercooler coupler/upper, HD Subframe poly inserts
ProPartsSweden HD top mount square mount, PPS lower torque rod & control arms.

User avatar
oragex
Posts: 5347
Joined: 24 May 2013
Year and Model: S60 2003
Location: Canada
Has thanked: 102 times
Been thanked: 352 times
Contact:

Post by oragex »

Front beefier ones do impact the handling quite a bit, if the rear one hasn't yet cracks on it, I'd swap only the front one. The car will handle better and be somehow safer on open road and this bushing also takes all the load in an emergency braking. I think the front one is not a full bushing, has like too 'tabs' of rubber. But if hard to say how damaged they are while still in the CA. I also remember before replacing mines, if I'd park the car on an incline, next morning the steering wheel would pull to one side for a while.

Interesting to find out they've lasted 160k miles, perhaps the way the car is driven has something to do with this.

MadeInJapan
MVS Moderator
Posts: 13434
Joined: 31 March 2005
Year and Model: '98 S70 T5 '07S40T5
Location: Knoxville, TN American but born in Japan
Has thanked: 17 times
Been thanked: 35 times

Post by MadeInJapan »

oragex wrote:
Interesting to find out they've lasted 160k miles, perhaps the way the car is driven has something to do with this.
Yes, my wife babies her car- just recently did we replace front and rear struts/shocks and added the poly inserts into the subframe bushings. I've done very little to this car. Just 2 days ago I changed out the rear rotors for the first time!!
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo

XC70Rider
Posts: 538
Joined: 18 October 2018
Year and Model: 2007 XC70
Location: TN
Has thanked: 35 times
Been thanked: 41 times

Post by XC70Rider »

oragex wrote: 03 Jul 2016, 05:31 First problem: rear smaller bushing is not available in Lemforder. The front biggie one is sold by Lemforder. I don't know if Volvo sells them.
While rebuilding my axles last weekend I could see the rear bushing on both front CA are cracked. Lemforder makes the front bushing and ball joints but not the rear bushing.

Anyone ever tried this Delphi brand bushing? FCP claims they're OEM

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... hi-8630605

FCP does carry the Genuine Volvo bushing for $10 more than the Delphi

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... -8630605oe
Last edited by XC70Rider on 05 Jun 2019, 12:54, edited 1 time in total.

User avatar
oragex
Posts: 5347
Joined: 24 May 2013
Year and Model: S60 2003
Location: Canada
Has thanked: 102 times
Been thanked: 352 times
Contact:

Post by oragex »

Just read my old comment, I was correct. The front bushing is available from Boge which I believe is the genuine OEM. The rear one is available from either Volvo (genuine) or Lemforder. Now, I had two rear Lemforder ones (bought the bushign separately in a small box) and failed very quickly in a few months. My recommendation is - if going to buy and press the bushings in - buy only the genuine ones - Boge and Volvo stamped. Or buy the whole Lemforder control arm - I guess they use a better bushing for these.

By all means, don't use any other brands -

www.youtube.com/watch?v=JQSbsTEBmmw

www.youtube.com/watch?v=w0q4nku0Rz8

.

Post Reply
  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post