240 DL stalled in traffic/ won't start without jumping fuse
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240 DL stalled in traffic/ won't start without jumping fuse
Hello all. My son has a 1990 Volvo 240 DL wagon , 5 speed. 200,000 miles . Has been a great car runs and drives nice . Always serviced. The car stalled in traffic and wouldn't start. had it towed home. Started to follow possible causes . We checked spark . ok. Followed to fuel pump relay . We jumped the #4 fuse with a jumper wire to #6 fuse and it started right up and ran fine. There seems to be no power to #4 fuse, we jumped the pump relay(under dash) and had power to #4 fuse??The fuel pump on the frame rail seems to operate only when the fuses are jumped. Removed the floor panel and checked the power to the tank pump and the power is weak with a test lite at the tank. If I jump the fuses the power is bright.We replaced the pump relay (new) under the dash. Still no go. Im missing something.Our manual is kind of vague. We checked the fuse under the hood it seems ok with a test light. Im leaning toward the tank pump, but I don't want to replace a bunch of unnecessary things. Any thoughts are appreciated. Kinda scratching our heads here .Thanks in advance. Van
No takers on this one ? We still continue to trace wires to surround the problem. When I find it I will post the results in case someone else is is the same boat. Frustrating, but I'll find it. They are great cars. It's amazing how they are self explainitory if you just keep at it. Van
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jmabbott888
- Posts: 1
- Joined: 5 June 2007
- Year and Model:
- Location: Bakersfield, Ca
Test the relay behind the glovebox. I forget the pin #s to test but 1 of them powers up the other fuse. Had the same problem in an 88 240 & the relay was bad.
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wojeepster
- Posts: 259
- Joined: 15 November 2005
- Year and Model:
- Location: Hendersonville, NC
buy an electrical diagram for your car. volvo wiring diagrams are the best that i have ever seen and give you voltage readings with the key on etc. well worth the 26$ With this in hand and a voltmeter you will make quick work of your problem. If you need more help I recommend tracy martins book "how to diagnose and repair automobile electrical systems" I think it is less than 20 on amazon. Here is a link for volvo tech publications
https://www.volvotechinfo.com/index.cfm ... =home.main
https://www.volvotechinfo.com/index.cfm ... =home.main
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ken goodman
- Posts: 11
- Joined: 10 June 2007
- Year and Model:
- Location:
pull the kick panel on the right side. if the fuel ecm has a pink color tag on it and ends in the number 561 the rollover leg in the computer has probably gone bad . 1/2 of the fuel pump relay turns on the ecm, and the other half of the relay that turns on the pumps is turned on by the ecm. weird, but it works fine once you understand it. these computers failed in droves when we saw alot of the cars in our shop. look for a 951 replacement ecm, used if you can find one. they were very reliable units. hope this helps.
there are several things you need to check.
Jumping the fuses bypasses the fuel relay (one under the glove box) and sends power to the pumps. The pump you want to ensure to work is the one which is high pressure under drivers side rear passenger seat. (under the car).
First thing to do is test the line under the glove box and look for the corresponding terminal spade .. i believe its 87/2 the solid red wire.. you should have power there at all times. If you dont .. its got to do with the engine compartment.
First thing you want to do is look at the battery terminal and you will spot a red wire connected there... if its corroded i would suggest taking it right off and replacing the connector (might cost you around one dollar). Once you do that look just right of the battery on the inner drivers fender. If you trace the red wire.. there is a spade fuse of 25 amps there.. ensure that it is working and clean the terminals.. usually they get moisture and corrosion build up.
Go back to the relay under the glove compartment and check to see if you now have power. Once you do the car should start without any issues.
Report back your findings and we can help you from that point on.
Happy repairs.. forever!
Jumping the fuses bypasses the fuel relay (one under the glove box) and sends power to the pumps. The pump you want to ensure to work is the one which is high pressure under drivers side rear passenger seat. (under the car).
First thing to do is test the line under the glove box and look for the corresponding terminal spade .. i believe its 87/2 the solid red wire.. you should have power there at all times. If you dont .. its got to do with the engine compartment.
First thing you want to do is look at the battery terminal and you will spot a red wire connected there... if its corroded i would suggest taking it right off and replacing the connector (might cost you around one dollar). Once you do that look just right of the battery on the inner drivers fender. If you trace the red wire.. there is a spade fuse of 25 amps there.. ensure that it is working and clean the terminals.. usually they get moisture and corrosion build up.
Go back to the relay under the glove compartment and check to see if you now have power. Once you do the car should start without any issues.
Report back your findings and we can help you from that point on.
Happy repairs.. forever!
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