850/P80 top torque mount fitting - Fact or Myth?

Post by **scot850** » 21 Jul 2016, 06:57

I seem to recall (maybe incorrectly) reading that if you rotate the top torque bushing 10 degrees forward they last longer. Can anyone confirm this or am I in the WD40 mist dream state?!

Neil.

Post by **scot850** » 24 Jul 2016, 22:23

Bump?

Sommerfeldt · Post by **Sommerfeldt** » 25 Jul 2016, 01:24

The OEM bushing is directional - it's got an arrow on it that shows correct installation. It has weaker and stronger parts, in an effort to further lessen vibrations that are transmitted through to the driver. That's also one of the reasons most people feel more vibrations when changing over to aftermarket or upgrades. So I'd think that rotating the OEM bushing might transfer stress from the "weaker" or softer parts of it, over to the more solid parts, which might increase longevity if you get it just right, but might also increase the transmitted vibration.

- S

Post by **jreed** » 25 Jul 2016, 05:10

I don't know yet if it worked to increase lifetime, but I installed my torque bushing about 4-5 years ago with a forwards rotation of about 10-15 degrees. So far it has not broken. I didn't notice an increase in vibrations.

Post by **mecheng** » 25 Jul 2016, 07:23

One tip I used, before torquing the bolt, put the car in drive against blocks and have someone in the car holding the brakes SAFETY FIRST!
Then torque the bolt. This way it is set in the position it is normally in, D, at idle.

It also helped reduce a bit of vibration with my poly mount

Post by **scot850** » 25 Jul 2016, 10:40

Thanks for the in-site guys. I am using a lemforder top bush. I has 2 'arrows' on it on opposite sides pointing in opposite directions. What it didn't tell you is which side to point which way. The Volvo dealer had an apprentice install the bush under supervision for me for free so hopefully they got it right! They did a real nice job and even the bracket came back nice and clean. Do no it is what it is. Interesting mecheng your thoughts of putting the cat in drive prior to torqueing the tip bolt. Need to think on that one as it is a good point!

Thanks again,

Neil.

kippster41493 · Post by **kippster41493** » 25 Jul 2016, 11:58

mecheng wrote:One tip I used, before torquing the bolt, put the car in drive against blocks and have someone in the car holding the brakes SAFETY FIRST!
Then torque the bolt. This way it is set in the position it is normally in, D, at idle.

It also helped reduce a bit of vibration with my poly mount

Out of curiosity what does this do? I've never heard of that before but seems interesting

Post by **mecheng** » 25 Jul 2016, 12:41

kippster41493 wrote:
mecheng wrote:One tip I used, before torquing the bolt, put the car in drive against blocks and have someone in the car holding the brakes SAFETY FIRST!
Then torque the bolt. This way it is set in the position it is normally in, D, at idle.

It also helped reduce a bit of vibration with my poly mount
Out of curiosity what does this do? I've never heard of that before but seems interesting

Reduces stress on the rubber, think of how you install control arms, same idea. You tighten the bolt when the car is in its loaded position.

kippster41493 · Post by **kippster41493** » 25 Jul 2016, 15:39

Makes sense, if I can add to this when I bought the car it had the poly mount on it. If were to knock the bolt loose, did the procedure would it be any more help or is it more of one shot kind of deal? (I don't know how long that new mount has been on it.)

Post by **scot850** » 25 Jul 2016, 23:04

I considered this too, but as the car is not running for a while I decided to tighten it up in the 'at rest' position for now so I don't forget to tighten it in a week or so when I hope to get the car running (part supply will determine that!).

Neil.