84 volvo 240 dl wagon a/t b23f engine 2.3l wont start

audie b · Post by **audie b** » 07 Jun 2007, 16:12

HELLO AND THANK YOU! WORKING ON A WHITE VOLVO DL WAGON (240) -WONT START-NO FUEL PUMPS ACTION WITH KEY ON OR CRANKING.BOTH PUMPS RUN WHEN JUMPERING 5&7 FUSES.STARTS AND RUNS WITH STARTING FLUID.DISCONNECTED FUEL LINE AT FUEL RAIL-JUMPERED FUSES-FUEL FLOW VERY GOOD.INSTALLED 2 RELAYS AT PASS.FLOOR AREA.REMOVED OUTSIDE FUEL PUMP-APPEARS TO HAVE BEEN PREVIOUSLY MELTED WIRES AND TAPED.I THINK CAR HAD BEEN RUNNING FOR SEVERAL MONTHS WITH WIRES LIKE THIS.HAS JETRONIS COMPUTER AT PASS. FLOOR. 200$ CONNECTED A TEST LIGHT AT PASS. FLOOR GROUND AND TOUCHED BLUE/GREEN WIRE ON RELAY CONNECTOR-KEY ON -FUEL PUMPS RUN-CRANK ENGINE-STILL NO START!-WHAT DO YOU THINK? GROUND FROM OUTSIDE PUMP?-COMPUTER? RELIABILITY OF 1984 SYSTEMS? PLEASE HELP! 6/7/07 6 PM EST

wojeepster · Post by **wojeepster** » 15 Jun 2007, 15:19

not sure but when main pump is going bad it can draw more current this could be why you are blowing fuses and burning up stuff. If you have ac/dc clamp on amp meter you can measure draw of pump. Welcome to the club, by the way using all caps is the equivalent to yelling.....

audie b · Post by **audie b** » 15 Jun 2007, 16:41

sorry about the CAPS.thought it would be easier to read. i don't tipe 2 good.ha ha back to the car.doesn't blow fuses-just won't turn pumps on with key on.when jumping fuses pumps sound ok though;and has good volume.old pumps could draw too many amps;but doesn't explain no pump action when turning on key. thanks! ps got a fuel system schematic?

CarVolvo · Post by **CarVolvo** » 15 Jun 2007, 19:03

yur 84 is slightly different than what i wrote this up for (86 and up)... i believe the relays are on the drivers side for your year car but follow up on this write up if it helps! I should ad to this..try disconnecting the maf sensor and spray some ether in the intake and see if the car is eager to start... if it does follow the route bellow...

there are several things you need to check.

Jumping the fuses bypasses the fuel relay (one under the glove box) and sends power to the pumps. The pump you want to ensure to work is the one which is high pressure under drivers side rear passenger seat. (under the car).

First thing to do is test the line under the glove box and look for the corresponding terminal spade .. i believe its 87/2 the solid red wire.. you should have power there at all times. If you dont .. its got to do with the engine compartment.

First thing you want to do is look at the battery terminal and you will spot a red wire connected there... if its corroded i would suggest taking it right off and replacing the connector (might cost you around one dollar). Once you do that look just right of the battery on the inner drivers fender. If you trace the red wire.. there is a spade fuse of 25 amps there.. ensure that it is working and clean the terminals.. usually they get moisture and corrosion build up.

Go back to the relay under the glove compartment and check to see if you now have power. Once you do the car should start without any issues.

Report back your findings and we can help you from that point on.

Happy repairs.. forever!

waynej · Post by **waynej** » 16 Jun 2007, 21:37

Great advice CarVolvo I clean everything on both battery terminals. Volvo recommends changing the 25 amp fuse and holder every 30k miles. I used to live on the coast (lots of humidity and salt air) and we changed them once a year regardless of mileage. Dirty connections cause low voltage to the engine computer, which causes many different symptoms that don't make sense and cannot be traced.