2000 S70 GLT 86k Transmission flush Help

spiderbubba · Post by **spiderbubba** » 10 Aug 2016, 16:13

Hello Fellow Volvo Friends,

I've been researching what to do regarding transmission flush /not to flush for my 2000 s70 GLT 85k. I need to drive across the country in a month and found out the transmission fluid is 'burnt' and low. I saw it myself -darkish brown w/ slight possible rust sludge on the stick upon pulling it out. The shifting has seemed ok, other than Reverse can be a little less fluid.

I already had an oil change ect, appt scheduled and had them check the trans fluid. They said it was burnt, needed a flush and it would cost $224 bc the transmission has to be taken apart to get to the filter. Is this correct? Also they use a trans flush machine, AND he has never done a volvo flush before. He did look up type of fluid -all I know is that it's red. I'm not sure what to do as I've read the machine is too high pressure, and have to drive 1000 miles in a few wks w/ 2 pets. I am currently living in a less than resourceful area and my car has suffered-can't wait to finally leave. IOW no indie volvo people I know of unless someone can point me in a direction. NE Iowa

Thank you very much for any guidance you can pass along. Very appreciated.... Thank you!!

Spiderbubba

Post by **abscate** » 10 Aug 2016, 19:02

Ok, here goes

1 put up your location as we have a couple of Volvo angels in The great Hawkeye state

2 do not power flush. Read the FAQs, drain out about 3 quarts of ATF and replace ithe same volume. Take your trip.

3 remember , our Volvos we prize, and our transmissions we maintain.

Post by **E Showell** » 10 Aug 2016, 19:07

Also sorts of horror stories on here about the aftermath of power flushes -- enough to convince me never to do it. The accepted method is the "drain-and-fill" that Steve (above) refers to. Plenty of advice on this site about how to accomplish it. Usually folks do several in series putting 500-1,000 miles between drain and fills. A few repeated sequences will get you a very high percentage of new transmission fluid in the system.

spiderbubba · Post by **spiderbubba** » 10 Aug 2016, 20:03

Thank you both, very much. I'm in the cedar falls, Waterloo area of ne Iowa. We've had three s70's since 2001 and had a fantastic Volvo specialist in Lancaster, ca while living there. Before that I drove a Saab 900 t paired w another fantastic mechanic in Hollywood, ca. I've learned to do a few things on my own through this amazing site and videos. I'm proud to have changed an o2 sensor myself and have always purchased my own parts.
My master window switch went out two wks ago which was interesting.....
Anyway, I would do the drain and fill myself but don't have time so what do you think they should charge? I also need to make sure the fluid is 3309?
If it's low right now, how much should be drained and then how much replaced? Is it all drained?

As well, my CEL showed the Po455 and some other evap code. He ran a smoke test and said it was either the purge valve or shut off valve in canister and said it would be $450! Is that right? Seems high. Can I still make the trip without fixing that right away?

Thank you, again..... I ts nice to know I have a place to trust.

PS78 · Post by **PS78** » 10 Aug 2016, 23:03

spiderbubba wrote: I also need to make sure the fluid is 3309?
If it's low right now, how much should be drained and then how much replaced? Is it all drained?

Your post states you have a 2000 s70 glt That should be the 4 speed automatic. 3309 is for the base 5spd auto.
If the fluid is low just drain out the old, clean and replace the plug, start with 3 quarts and slowly add in small increments until you're in between the lines. Recheck it after you're up to temperature.

Have a fun trip whichever direction your headed dude.

Post by **abscate** » 11 Aug 2016, 04:11

You can do this faster than waiting for any shop. Good DIY in the Volvo a Repair Database in the Transmission section.

spiderbubba · Post by **spiderbubba** » 11 Aug 2016, 06:58

Forgot to mention I'm a lady....not that it matters of course. Actually, it' works out when I can slide under a car without tire ramps and get my hands in very tight spots. I like doing things on my own.

Regarding the 3309, if that is for the 5 speed, then what is the fluid for the 4 speed automatic? I have to tell the guy this morning. The car is sitting at the shop getting other things done so for efficiency's sake he can do it unless it's really expensive which is why I wanted to know ballpark cost if someone has an idea .

Thank you all again....going west.

Post by **abscate** » 11 Aug 2016, 08:33

Forgot to mention I'm a lady....not that it matters of course.

We already knew that.

The gold standard for awesomeness is currently tied by 5 rivers (who cleans her cylinder head so clean you can eat off it), Cynthia, who once cooked dinner over a burning minivan, and Nurse Amy - who troubleshot her fuel pump and relay about 4 weeks from delivery. Ok, I made one of those stories up.

Its so empowering to cut the cord from shops that are a hassle to schedule, work with, and finally - do damage to your car!

Encourage you to find the hour to do the drain and fill - its also great knowledge to have on a trip when things go south and you know whats under there is no mystery - its just another problem to be solved.

Have a look on the 'help in my area forum' too -

Any HAWKEYES got some time this week??

PS78 · Post by **PS78** » 11 Aug 2016, 09:26

The trans fluid is dexron 3 for the 4 speed auto. Dexron 3 is very common and readily available. The material cost for it off the shelf should be less than $20 for you as a diy. Trans fluid changes go from $80 and up for a shop. As for the purge valve and or canister shut off valve you can make your trip and source those parts after you're at your destination. Hopefully you can find a good independent after you're settled in for when you need them in the future.

Post by **abscate** » 11 Aug 2016, 09:49

As well, my CEL showed the Po455 and some other evap code. He ran a smoke test and said it was either the purge valve or shut off valve in canister and said it would be $450! Is that right? Seems high. Can I still make the trip without fixing that right away?

Thank you, again..... I ts nice to know I have a place to trust.

Reinforcing Paul's post..

A small leak (which your mechanic can't even definitely find) can be ignored for your trip.

Rant mode.

If you are going to charge people upwards of $100 an hour, you can't play swap parts. Replacing the parts is the easy part - its figuring out which ones are bad that takes the thought and skill.

Ms Hawkeye - I priced the purge valve at $36 and the rollover valve at $123 at FCP. An hour of labor for both is reasonable, so a $260 bill for both is reasonable. You can do both of these yourself and obviously try the cheaper one first. You get to spend the (450-36) = $414 on yourself, too.