Power Window fuse #37

[beigg]

Wires running along the body thru entry point to cabin and then floor going under the carpet must be pinched and shorting out.

You're jumping to a bit of a conclusion there.
The OP states that three windows worked and
the system failed when the drivers window was used.
All of the drivers window wiring runs from the master
switch to the window motor. It's all in the door.

And the way Volvo runs harnesses makes it truly
unlikely that anything is pinched and shorting out.

I gotta go with Abscate on this one. That fuse box is TOAST.
In the words of the Mythbusters, "THERE'S your problem!"

I'd start looking for a new one if you wish to really make it right.
At the bare minimum, the contact clips for that burned up breaker
position need to be replaced before you go any further with this.

That is not pretty...

So you're implying I'm saying no wires running between the master switch and window regulators assembly can be suspect? Pretty certain no window regulator wires run up and over using the ceiling/roof channels.

[BEJinFbk]

Wires running along the body thru entry point to cabin and then floor going under the carpet must be pinched and shorting out.

You're jumping to a bit of a conclusion there.
The OP states that three windows worked and
the system failed when the drivers window was used.
All of the drivers window wiring runs from the master
switch to the window motor. It's all in the door.

And the way Volvo runs harnesses makes it truly
unlikely that anything is pinched and shorting out.

I gotta go with Abscate on this one. That fuse box is TOAST.
In the words of the Mythbusters, "THERE'S your problem!"

I'd start looking for a new one if you wish to really make it right.
At the bare minimum, the contact clips for that burned up breaker
position need to be replaced before you go any further with this.

That is not pretty...

So you're implying I'm saying no wires running between the master switch and window regulators assembly can be suspect? Pretty certain no window regulator wires run up and over using the ceiling/roof channels.

I don't know what you think I'm implying. Only you know that. Please read objectively.
I only know what is more or less likely to be at fault when this particular system fails.

You are correct that none of the power window harnesses run above the belt line of the car.
And, as stated above, I said "unlikely", not impossible. Wire runs in these cars are generally very
well engineered, thoughtfully laid out and protected from abrasion and other long term damage.
The switches, unfortunately, are not and are an extremely common source of trouble with these cars.

The likelihood of a wire being pinched or shorting out between the master switch, local
switches and windows motors borders on nearly nonexistent compared to the possibility of
the failure of an active component like a poorly designed switch contact. And in this case,
the original bad switch was more than likely involved in the overheating of the breaker contacts
( Good Gravy, that got HOT ) and the melted plastic around it. If that was the case, it doesn't
say much for the shop that worked on it. That melty spot should have been spotted first thing!

Another Great Reason to work on your own stuff and spend Quality Time at MVS!

Remember: "Step 1: Check the power supply. - Step 2: Refer to Step 1 ! "

[beigg]

The melted socket could have been brought upon the car when the entire door was swapped out. In reality the problem could have just been a overlooked relay or funky switch.

[BEJinFbk]

Door? Not likely.
Switch? Yes. I think it was the switch, too.
Relay? Which relay? Please elaborate.

[Beckyrialto]

awe...I wish there was a blushing emoji.

[Beckyrialto]

....YOU are the star here....

awe...I wish there was a blushing emoji.

[Beckyrialto]

The melted socket could have been brought upon the car when the entire door was swapped out. In reality the problem could have just been a overlooked relay or funky switch.

I only ran the car for one or 2 minutes after I switched out the door - just long enough to test both master switches. Also there was no distinctive "burning plastic" smell when I was testing the master switches. I suspect the charring occurred back when the windows stopped working.

[Beckyrialto]

I can figure out mechanical items pretty well, but electricity is a very unfamiliar playground. Here is what I have decided to do. 1. Unhook the battery. 2 remove the melted fusebox and see what it looks like underneath.

I wish I understood more about relays, fuses and circuit breakers. Since I don't, please forgive the level of my questions.
The circuit breaker got VERY hot, melted the plastic and blew. What would cause that? a short circuit? I am hoping to find the cause of the circuit breaker blowing. (And maybe even fix it!)

Thanks Becky

[beigg]

Parking brake has to be the culprit. Shoes got so hot, sent the heat up the cable then thru to the wiring.

[abscate]

I can figure out mechanical items pretty well, but electricity is a very unfamiliar playground. Here is what I have decided to do. 1. Unhook the battery. 2 remove the melted fusebox and see what it looks like underneath.

I wish I understood more about relays, fuses and circuit breakers. Since I don't, please forgive the level of my questions.
The circuit breaker got VERY hot, melted the plastic and blew. What would cause that? a short circuit? I am hoping to find the cause of the circuit breaker blowing. (And maybe even fix it!)

Thanks Becky

That sounds like a failed circuit breaker,not just a short. Did you get some new ones?

This one will do for your above post..

parking brake has to be the culprit. Shoes got so hot, sent the heat up the cable then thru to the wiring.

Becky isnt in Norway, so that rules out the parking brake.