Head gasket 2000 S70

michaelw84 · Post by **michaelw84** » 02 Sep 2016, 11:51

just removed head to replace head gasket now i just have one question before reinstalling...is it a must that head hould be planed ,it didnt overheat head looks ok but im sure its warped somewhat car has about 180000 miles on it.....just need to verify bfore i go any further....what are my options

Post by **tryingbe** » 02 Sep 2016, 11:55

You need to check the cylinder head for straightness or paid to get it checked.

Post by **cn90** » 02 Sep 2016, 11:58

If cyl head is straight (use a straight edge to check), then there is no need to plane it.

101 · Post by **101** » 02 Sep 2016, 16:21

You can definitely check it with a metal straight edge as cn90 said above ... but if you are planning on keeping the car for a while longer I highly recommend having the head fully inspected and the valve stem seals replaced with OEM Volvo seals by a competent machine shop. It's an investment that will save you tons of grief later on.

clifford06 · Post by **clifford06** » 02 Sep 2016, 16:34

Greetings. In my opinion, have the head checked by a good shop. What were the signs of HG failure ? I understand your questioning of planing the head. I had a head go bad due to a waterpump locking up. Threw timing belt and bent valves. Did not overheat. 142,000 mls. I had a PNP head rebuilt . I kept my original . At your mileage, you might consider new valve seals since head is already out. But , I due understand budget concerns . Just would hate for you to do all this work and have old valves seals leak . Good luck.

Post by **erikv11** » 03 Sep 2016, 09:28

Some +1 comments ...

For sure have the head checked, probably planed too, by a good shop. Not any shop, but a good one. I tend to trust the machinist for the machine work.

I've pulled several heads now, I can't imagine pulling a head from a p80 car and not replacing with new valve stem seals, which must be Volvo brand as mentioned. Almost guaranteed they are leaking now. Unless you are just trying to get a year of basic transportation out of this car, do them now and avoid the otherwise almost inevitable burnt valve.

michaelw84 · Post by **michaelw84** » 10 Oct 2016, 16:00

thanks for the responses.....I did check the head with a straight edge which looked good so I decided to just put the head back in without doing all the work on valves and such....head gasket was actually good...what I found was 2 loose head bolts by cylinders 3 and 4 which were filled with water...car is back together and runs and sounds good but does not accelerate when I push down on gas peddle...it just bogs down. Now I did end up with a vacuum line that comes from the intake manifold..i swear I marked this when I took it apart but I cant figure out where it goes.....I have been looking in vicinity of throttle body but have yet to find it....when I do push down on accelerator I do hear some what of a sucking noise just haven't located and im pretty sue the vacuum line is the problem....its a white 3mm vacuum line...does anyone have an idea where it goes to from the intake...Thanks

Post by **erikv11** » 10 Oct 2016, 16:04

There's a handful of vac lines, a pic will make it crystal clear if you can post one. The site can host pics directly. I don't actually know the vac line routing very well for 2000 but someone will know.

Is this car a turbo or NA?

michaelw84 · Post by **michaelw84** » 10 Oct 2016, 18:47

ok here are pics of vacuum line it is the white one coming from the intake manifold...I believe it goes somewhere near or on throttle body cant see anything at a quick glance haven't had time to dig a lil deeper so im asking for any one with any idea where it may go

clifford06 · Post by **clifford06** » 11 Oct 2016, 16:19

Greetings. I popped my hood to compare to mine . No match. You must have a non turbo.
Just wondering, if you found loose head bolts, if tightening them would have made a difference ? Just a thought before I replace my leaking headgasket.