just bought a '99 C70 conv't

wrathofpaul · Post by **wrathofpaul** » 01 Oct 2016, 09:53

Hello everyone! I am new here because I am the recent new owner of a 1999 Volvo C70 Convertible. Got a pretty good deal, I paid $1200 for it and only has 114,000 miles. I like to think I'm somewhat mechanically inclined but Volvos are the one brand I know least about lol.

So this car (pics coming soon) is basically a winter/project car for me. (I just bought a 2016 Challenger R/T for the Summer and the nice weather) nonetheless, I want to make sure this car is running 100%.

it really doesn't have a lot of issues. here's what I've found:

Convertible top doesn't go down all the way. the back part rolls up, then just stops. (It's mainly a winter car so that's low priority right now)

Parking brake is not working. It's an automatic, and I'm sure all I need is new rear rotors/brakes, so that should be easy.

Timing belt is in good condition upon visual inspection but I have no way of knowing whether it was replaced at 60,000 miles, 80,000 miles, or never. I hear there's no way to really tell short of looking at it with a microscope and sending it to a lab lol. Local mechanic quoted me $1200 to replace (along with water pump, pullies, etc) which is what I paid for the thing. but if it has 114k, there's no way it would still have the original belt and not look like a piece of jerky, right? the writing is still visible and says "Contitech". if that's not the OEM brand then it's definitely not the original.

in reality, I'm going to probably replace it but I want to wait till next year when I have some more money. I probably won't even put more than 5000 miles on it a year anyway. I do understand the risk in waiting though, so no need for a lecture on how to not blow up my engine. lol

and lastly, the CEL was on with a P0442 code (small evap leak). I reset the code but I heard that in New York you can have up to TWO readiness monitors "not ready" and still pass. if that's true, this is lucky for me, as the EVAP is the last test to run it seems, so I could have 6/7 ready and as long as I take it to the inspection right away the CEL won't have gone back on yet. (but someone correct me if I am wrong)

other than that I think I got a pretty solid car here. looking forward to learning about Volvos on this forum!

Post by **tryingbe** » 01 Oct 2016, 12:47

wrathofpaul wrote: Parking brake is not working. It's an automatic, and I'm sure all I need is new rear rotors/brakes, so that should be easy.

Take it apart and look at it. 5 bolts, one rotor bolts, couple of caliper bolts, and that's it.

wrathofpaul wrote: Timing belt is in good condition upon visual inspection but I have no way of knowing whether it was replaced at 60,000 miles, 80,000 miles, or never. I hear there's no way to really tell short of looking at it with a microscope and sending it to a lab lol. Local mechanic quoted me $1200 to replace (along with water pump, pullies, etc) which is what I paid for the thing. but if it has 114k, there's no way it would still have the original belt and not look like a piece of jerky, right? the writing is still visible and says "Contitech". if that's not the OEM brand then it's definitely not the original.

Contitech is OEM.

wrathofpaul wrote: and lastly, the CEL was on with a P0442 code (small evap leak). I reset the code but I heard that in New York you can have up to TWO readiness monitors "not ready" and still pass. if that's true, this is lucky for me, as the EVAP is the last test to run it seems, so I could have 6/7 ready and as long as I take it to the inspection right away the CEL won't have gone back on yet. (but someone correct me if I am wrong)

Check Engine Light code is different than system readiness. I'm pretty sure CEL on is an automatic fail. You need to find the leak and fix it, probably just a vacuum hose is torn or loose.

Post by **scot850** » 01 Oct 2016, 13:15

Welcome to MVS and to Volvo's!

Are all C70's turbos, and if so then I'm assuming yours is?

Not going to lecture on timing belt, but the mileage is not the issue, but the age. You have an un-known car that is 17-18 years old that should have had at least 2 belts by now. If it has only had one (who knows), you are running on fumes in terms of a likely failure. I'd replace that before anything if you are making this a daily driver. Water pump is also an unknown as are the timing belt pulleys. Pump is recommended to be changed every 2nd belt, and most enthusiasts may agree that pulleys every time as insurance.

What I would look at is the serpentine belt. I have found these tend to deteriorate quicker than the TB as it is more exposed. When I just did the TB on a 60k mile 97 850 a couple of months ago, the TB was perfect, but the serp was really perished, although they were replaced about the same time about 6 years ago.

Parking brake is a nice to have, but is I read correctly you are in NY area, so lots of moisture/salt on roads? Chances are the PB brake cables are toast, either broken or seized. When replacing PB's the cables are a bit tricky, but makes sense if they have been abused or through lack of used.

If you are mechanically inclined, none of the work is too hard. Access is a little challenging on the TB area and water pump, but the only tricky part is setting the CVVT and there is plenty info here how to.

Good luck and look forward to the pictures!

Neil.

Post by **j-dawg** » 01 Oct 2016, 13:32

I have spent three and a half years trying to make my parking brake work.

wrathofpaul · Post by **wrathofpaul** » 01 Oct 2016, 14:02

Thanks! the Serp belt looks brand new, so that's good. I heard the parking brake is housed inside the disc rotor in like a type of drum brake inside the hub? or am I imagining that?

Post by **tryingbe** » 01 Oct 2016, 14:07

wrathofpaul wrote:Thanks! the Serp belt looks brand new, so that's good. I heard the parking brake is housed inside the disc rotor in like a type of drum brake inside the hub? or am I imagining that?

What's it looks inside the rotor. There was no shoe pad on my car, and that was my car's issue.

wrathofpaul · Post by **wrathofpaul** » 01 Oct 2016, 17:40

tryingbe wrote:
wrathofpaul wrote:
Check Engine Light code is different than system readiness. I'm pretty sure CEL on is an automatic fail. You need to find the leak and fix it, probably just a vacuum hose is torn or loose.

Oh I cleared the code. currently, theres no CEL. the problem is still there, but the car hasn't tested the EVAP system yet after 20 miles or so. but the other 6 monitors are ready. so, if i took it to the inspection station right now before the EVAP test and it throws a code, it should pass. according to the DMV side it will pass with up to two monitors "not ready" (as long as the CEL is still off)

I'll definitely look into fixing it. but if i can just pass this inspection, It will buy me some time.

Post by **JRL** » 02 Oct 2016, 16:41

It doesn't work that way.
You need to drive it at least 50-100 miles to get it to "readiness status" and your CEL WILL come back
Have the car smoked to test for leaks, this is really the quickest and only good way to test if nothing (visible cracked or broken vacuum line) is obvious to the eye!

Post by **matthew1** » 02 Oct 2016, 17:37

JRL, states are relaxing their readiness standards. It's the same as the OP's state here in Colorado now.

My friend just sent a late 80s Landcruiser through emissions with the CEL on. It passed. Lots of things pass now. It does work this way.

Post by **abscate** » 02 Oct 2016, 19:00

In NY you can't pass with CEL on, but you can have two monitors not ready on a 1999