98 v70 na engine mounts -155000 miles Topic is solved

[sleddriver]

Thanks for the kudos but I'm certainly no "expert". Hardly. Robert, Tryingbe, DosBricks, et. al occupy such ''rarified' air as they've actually pulled engines! Wish I could have been there to assist & learn. Heck, I wasn't even successful at lowering the rear sub-frame! Sure would have made this job easier. Fifty something bucks for one of those upper engine support brackets/hangers from HF sounds like $$ well spent.

Any jack you mentioned is suitable. Just use a 2x4 to distribute the load across the oil pan.

Don't make the mistake of driving your car up on ramps either as you'll need to remove the wheel to get at the "front" motor mount below the crank to unbolt the engine from the sub-frame.

[98v70dad]

Thanks for the kudos but I'm certainly no "expert". Hardly. Robert, Tryingbe, DosBricks, et. al occupy such ''rarified' air as they've actually pulled engines! Wish I could have been there to assist & learn. Heck, I wasn't even successful at lowering the rear sub-frame! Sure would have made this job easier. Fifty something bucks for one of those upper engine support brackets/hangers from HF sounds like $$ well spent.

Any jack you mentioned is suitable. Just use a 2x4 to distribute the load across the oil pan.

Don't make the mistake of driving your car up on ramps either as you'll need to remove the wheel to get at the "front" motor mount below the crank to unbolt the engine from the sub-frame.

Got it done. No problems directly related to the mounts. However, now my AT shifter wont move past reverse. I think the shifter linkage passes right below the air filter box. It might have gotten squeezed or bent when I lifted the engine. You were right, I really had to lift the engine pretty high to get those mounts in. Please see my separate new thread on my inability to shift. I haven't gotten any replies and I'm pretty much stuck at the house until I can get it fixed. My wife took the other car on a trip for a week.

BTW, The rear mount had fallen apart. The rubber was disbonded from the steel on the bottom and all the fluid had apparently leaked out long ago. I'm looking forward to test driving it when I can use gears other than park and neutral.

[sleddriver]

Wow...congratulations! Sounds like you had no issues with the rear one. Correct? Did you also remove the heat shield and rear motor bracket or not? I'm interested in hearing more about how you went about it and what issues you had. So are others I bet.

The shifter linkage is just under the air box. Something must be binding on it. Not experienced this issue myself. Might have to do with the PNP. Robert might have a video.

The rear HMM lives a hard, hot life, under plenty of load on our old cars. Not surprised at all to hear it was in poor shape. What DOES surprise me are those who claim these don't need changing on old cars. They don't know what their missing, ride-quality-wise.

Someone else will chime in with an answer for you.....

[98v70dad]

Wow...congratulations! Sounds like you had no issues with the rear one. Correct? Did you also remove the heat shield and rear motor bracket or not? I'm interested in hearing more about how you went about it and what issues you had. So are others I bet.

The shifter linkage is just under the air box. Something must be binding on it. Not experienced this issue myself. Might have to do with the PNP. Robert might have a video.

The rear HMM lives a hard, hot life, under plenty of load on our old cars. Not surprised at all to hear it was in poor shape. What DOES surprise me are those who claim these don't need changing on old cars. They don't know what their missing, ride-quality-wise.

Someone else will chime in with an answer for you.....

What is a PNP?

I will post some details on the job when I am able to drive again. Right now I'm focused on how I'll get to work on Monday.

The NA version of the 98 V70 apparently is much easier than the turbo. I had the mounts out in about 45 minutes. I did not have to remove the heat shield or the motor bracket in the back. I decided to remove the cooling fan (very worth the effort) and it added about 20 minutes. I broke a wire doing that but it was an easy fix (that wire has been on the ragged edge of breaking for several years).

I did have to lift the engine pretty high and suspect that I squashed/bent something. Maybe the sparks blew a fuse. I checked the fuses and they all look OK. The inability to pull the shift lever feels like a mechanical interference (bent rod maybe). Hopefully I don't need to order a part because that means I'll miss work on Monday and maybe Tuesday (and be minus two vacation days). I did damage the aluminum preheat tube coming off the exhaust manifold in the back (totally trashed). I really don't understand how that happened because I disconnected it. No big deal since we really don't need that preheat down south anyhow. I will stuff a ball of aluminum foil into the exhaust take off as a temporary repair and order the part. In the meantime it should be fine.

[98v70dad]

This project was pretty straightforward but thanks to sleddriver who patiently answered all of my questions I was able to accomplish it without too many unanticipated problem. I declare my issue solved, although since this thread has been a series of question no one post was the solution. So, I'll just select this last one as the solution. I used a 6 or 8 inch wobble extension with a 12 inch ordinary extension, a 15 mm deep socket and an 18 inch cheater on the rear top nut. I used a 24 inch extension, a universal joint and 15 mm ordinary socket for the front top bolt. (I can't remember now - I may have the sockets reversed... its obvious which one to use when you're doing it) The bottom bolt on the forward mount was easy - an extension and a 14 mm ordinary socket. I used a 14mm swivel socket and an extension on the rear bottom bolt. I probably lifted the engine too high because I bent the little 3 inch lever on the PNP - don't do that. If you remove the battery and tray it probably wouldn't be an issue - maybe a good idea. I sprayed all of the nuts/bolts liberally with PB Blaster for two weeks ahead of doing the job and they all came out without a fight. I didn't own a set of swivel sockets and found that Sunex makes a nice quality tool at a fairly reasonable price .. a set was about $75 on ebay. I ordered the metric shallow set. They are shallower than I expected but did the job. If you order a set they are not quite as deep as a regular socket. They would easily work on any bolt but might not work for the nut side. OH and ALWAYS use you wheel chocks!

[sleddriver]

Good to hear it was straightforward for you; in and out with minimal fuss, save for the bent rod. Never considered the battery tray might get in the way. Interesting that.

Looking forward to hearing more about your post-op driving experiences with new HMM's, with your long commute.

[98v70dad]

Good to hear it was straightforward for you; in and out with minimal fuss, save for the bent rod. Never considered the battery tray might get in the way. Interesting that.

Looking forward to hearing more about your post-op driving experiences with new HMM's, with your long commute.

The new mounts peeled away another layer of vibration, but I still have some. Its a definite improvement and I'm glad that I did it but something is still not quite right. Maybe the car has always been that way...don't know since I bought it when it was 10 years old. I still have the subframe bushings to do but I just doubt they would make that much difference. I also suspect that its time to replace the passenger side drive axle and/or one or both front wheel bearings. I have a left and right drive axles that I can overhaul and install. I'm not real confident in diagnosing a wheel bearing. My remaining vibration is coupled with a subtle droning, growling noise that goes with acceleration. It also seems to match with the vibration.

Interestingly, the aft bushing in the lower torque link I replaced was completely hard so maybe the subframe bushings are similar. When I get time I'll replace them.

Again, thanks sleddriver for guiding me through!

[cn90]

New bearings solved my drone noise.
I used Timken (FAG in the box, made in Germany, about $90-$100 on ebay etc.).
I used new bolts b/c some people here say they rounded the Torx bolts.
I didn't not round any bolts. In theory I could have re-used the bolts.
I used Propane Torch to heat the bolt where it meets the bearing flange to melt the Loctite, and even so it was tight!
I posted photos in forum...

[98v70dad]

New bearings solved my drone noise.
I used Timken (FAG in the box, made in Germany, about $90-$100 on ebay etc.).
I used new bolts b/c some people here say they rounded the Torx bolts.
I didn't not round any bolts. In theory I could have re-used the bolts.
I used Propane Torch to heat the bolt where it meets the bearing flange to melt the Loctite, and even so it was tight!
I posted photos in forum...

If I could find a source of good used ones I might do it. However putting in a used wheel bearing doesnt make a lot of sense unless you know its pedigree - ie came out of a low mileage wreck. Costs are starting to mount up and it not that bad (yet), but I like everything to work like new.

[sleddriver]

A bearing going Tango Uniform will growl/roar when loaded and get louder as the speed increases. Try a series of S-turns in a large, vacant parking lot at speed with your ears peeled.

I've replaced it RF one. It was quite loose when I finally got it in my hands!