New MAF, black smoke and stalling.

Post by **misha** » 18 Feb 2017, 05:37

The sign that the car runs better without it than with it connected points to a bad MAF.
It could be that connector needs to be zip-tied.It's common failure on this cars.
Other than that,you have a huge vacuum leak somewhere or your new MAF is bad right out the box.

Post by **rspi** » 18 Feb 2017, 07:46

My guess would be that there is a hole in the turbo pressure system, between the turbo and intake.

Post by **erikv11** » 18 Feb 2017, 08:38

abscate wrote: ... Thats a turbo car, right? If there is the slightest leak in the induction hoses, after MAF but before throttle body, it won't run well with the MAF connected.

This. Check the intercooler hoses for small splits, and for loose clamps.

Everyone is saying the same things: bad Bosch MAF (unlucky - get one from the junkyard to test) or intake leak.

Moppman · Post by **Moppman** » 18 Feb 2017, 10:39

Alright, everyone is saying vacuum leak so I'll start checking on those. From the top there seems to be no leak, split or disconnection but I haven't checked from the bottom so I'll check that today.

Moppman · Post by **Moppman** » 18 Feb 2017, 11:07

misha wrote:The sign that the car runs better without it than with it connected points to a bad MAF.
It could be that connector needs to be zip-tied.It's common failure on this cars.
Other than that,you have a huge vacuum leak somewhere or your new MAF is bad right out the box.

I replaced it with an OEM Bosch MAF so that's been ruled out. I'm checking today for vacuum leaks, non from the top but could be on the bottom.

Post by **misha** » 18 Feb 2017, 11:14

Did you try zip-tying it's connector:

: MAFtr.jpg (30.6 KiB) Viewed 998 times

You have few possibilities here:
-bad maf right out of the box(less likely)
-huge vacuum leak somewhere(more likely)
-bad maf sensor's connector(common fault on these cars)

Since you have been driving the car for some time with bad Maf,your o2 sensors are fouled with soot and not able to work properly.There is possibility that Cat is also clogged.

Post by **rspi** » 18 Feb 2017, 11:19

Also, make sure your intercooler is not cracked or split on the bottom of the car. I purchased a car that had a large chunk missing from the intercooler.

RigsPGT · Post by **RigsPGT** » 18 Feb 2017, 17:03

I'm afraid you might have bought or sent a MAF from a naturally aspirated car. Do the part numbers match on the new one? Now either you have a bad new MAF or a wrong one due to web site errors. If unplugging it the car works good then we can rule out any other things with the car itself and point the fault to the MAF. I drove more than 100 miles on a bad MAF plugged in without having a CEL being tripped.

Post by **misha** » 18 Feb 2017, 17:19

RigsPgt.....Maf sensors are the SAME for na & turbo cars from '96-'99.....erikv11 allready pointed that out to you.
Bosch # 0 280 217 107.
'99 & '00 have different ones but still the same for na & turbo...and it would be Bosch 0 280 218 108.It's connection is different too.

Moppman · Post by **Moppman** » 18 Feb 2017, 18:03

RigsPGT wrote:I'm afraid you might have bought or sent a MAF from a naturally aspirated car. Do the part numbers match on the new one? Now either you have a bad new MAF or a wrong one due to web site errors. If unplugging it the car works good then we can rule out any other things with the car itself and point the fault to the MAF. I drove more than 100 miles on a bad MAF plugged in without having a CEL being tripped.

From what I've learned, the MAF is the same for the turbo and normal model. When either MAF is plugged in I get no CEL light, just runs incredibly rich. New MAF at least will hold an idle, with the old MAF it won't idle longer than a few seconds.

New MAF, black smoke and stalling.

Re: New MAF, black smoke and stalling.