Can't get back window to roll up on my 1998 V70

Post by **SonicAdventure** » 08 Mar 2017, 11:38

Was driving home today and rolled my back window down, now it won't go up. Won't go up from the back switch either.

I tried making it go down and dropped it an inch, so I know the motor is working.

What is a quick way to get it back up? I'll deal with a replacement switch later. Thanks.

Post by **scot850** » 08 Mar 2017, 13:08

Try swapping the left and right connectors on the drivers master switch and see if that works. If the master switch fails the rear one won't work.

Neil.

Jazzer · Post by **Jazzer** » 08 Mar 2017, 14:14

Try working the main switch back and forth, quickly, many times. This works sometimes; I finally had to take the main switch apart, clean the contacts, add a little dialectic grease, and it worked after that. Careful not to break the switch prying it open.

Post by **SonicAdventure** » 08 Mar 2017, 14:37

Thanks all -

When I first got this car, the passenger side rear window would roll down from the drivers main switch, but wouldn't roll up. You had to roll it up by using the passenger side rear switch.

I though that was annoying so on one of my many junkyard trips I grabbed two duplicate switches.

When I installed one, it did the opposite; rear passenger side wouldn't roll down from the main switch, but would roll up from the main. All other windows functioned normally otherwise. I thought this would be better, so that is the one I left in.

The other switch I got didn't really work at all but I kept it for parts.

Today when I rolled the drivers side rear window down, it wouldn't roll up from the back switch or the front. But it would still go down from either switch. So I swapped the switch back to the original just to get it up and it worked. But I'm back to the same problem of not being able to roll my passenger side rear window up from the front switch.

Oh well. I'm not paying $130 for an OEM switch. As long as my windows are all up right now, that's al I care about. I decided to put the seat back holders to use. I now have a total of three main window switch boxes in my car at all time!

Someday I want this issue sorted out for good but as long as I can make it work for now I'll just have to deal with it.

Thanks for your feedback. And to anyone else with wierd window problems: I'd strongly recommend getting an extra main switch from the junkyard next time you go. They charge me $5 a piece for these and while you can't test them, it's worth the gamble. If nothing else, you can get experience tearing them down so you understand how they work.

Post by **scot850** » 08 Mar 2017, 18:23

I pick the master switches up at PnP for a few $$'s. But even a new one from Switch Doctor is not too bad and it is contactless so no more failing switches. There are cheap knock-offs on Ebay for around $20-30.

Neil.

Post by **theWIFES_S70** » 08 Mar 2017, 18:26

I have almost two years on a $15 one from eBay. No hiccups, as of yet. Though, you do have to shave the plastic off the back to get it to fit...

Post by **FLXC90** » 09 Mar 2017, 02:42

Unlock the switch on the master control. At the back of the driver's door switch pack. Happened to me last week

Post by **benpineapple** » 09 Mar 2017, 08:04

switch doctor switches are garbage. i had one that went bad after a week of use. the replacement went bad after about 7mos. I currently have a master switch by the brand Eynpire, I bought it off Amazon for about $20. seemingly better quality part, has held up well so far.

about your window issue, i had the same issue and solved it without buying or replacing any parts. i used my multimeter and found that i had power and grounding at the switch, but no impedance on the window motor. here's what fixed it for me:

-removed door panel
-removed metal housing on outside of the window motor (held on by 4 small torx screws)
-removed window motor shaft and brushes (which were inside the metal housing)
-cleaned housing thoroughly, lubed top end where motor shaft rests
-cleaned and lubed the part of the shaft where the brushes come in contact with it, using a dielectric grease
-inserted shaft back into brushes ring
-inserted shaft and brushes ring back into motor (they must go in tandem, very difficult to insert motor shaft if brushes are already in)
-reinstalled motor housing, and the 4 small torx screws
-tested for impedance at the motor, it tested good (if yours were to test bad at this point still, i'd say go get a new shaft/brush set from a pick n pull)
-reinstalled door panel
-plugged window switch in, and et voila! working rear window

that's what fixed it for me, although i'd say do some testing before throwing a bunch of switches and parts at your car.

Post by **SonicAdventure** » 09 Mar 2017, 10:13

Thanks everyone for your assistance.

Ringo · Post by **Ringo** » 31 May 2017, 15:00

I'm curious about he dielectric grease you used Bob. If I'm understanding what you are saying I think you used it on the copper commutator where the brushes come in contact? It's my understanding that dielectric grease is non conductive - wouldn't that be a bad thing to use on that place (where the brushes are riding on the commutator and transferring electricity)? And also, if I'm not mistaken graphite is a lubricant, yes?

Also, anyone know a good grease the end of the housing for where the end of the shaft rests? White lithium?