2001 V70 Electrical problems after repair, loose alternator screw Topic is solved

Daveliz99 · Post by **Daveliz99** » 24 Mar 2017, 06:59

Hello, thank you for reading and helping.

2001 V70 2.4T 227k Miles, I've owned it 11 years and have done all my own repairs, in large part because of posts here on mvs. Great site.

Recently I completed a large repair job. Timing kit, pcv cleaning (not due for changing), Ac compressor clutch plate shims, turbo control valve vac hoses, lower radiator hose, turbo bypass valve vac hoses, evap purge valve, new battery, other misc. Due to work schedules, other life, the car sat in my shop about 3 months. The negative battery cable was disconnected prior to starting the job, and remained that way until start up.

The problem: At first start up, I had 4 messages:
1) abs system service required
2) stc service required
3) engine system service required
4) El power system service required

Previously after a combined pcv and o-ring oil pan job, I had the two about abs and stc service, but after a few days they faded in and out then went away completely without me doing anything. I expected the same this time. And indeed, all 4 messages do come and go intermittently, as I have about 100 miles of driving on the job. But...

Yesterday, I was driving and the speedometer went to zero, the power went away and the engine would not respond to the gas pedal at all. I coasted into a parking lot, turned it off and tried to restart it. It would just click as if a dead battery. So I got a ride home and returned a few hours later. The car started just fine. Turned it off and restarted 4 or 5 time in a row. No problems at all. I drove it about 8 miles toward home, and now its after dark, I noticed the dash lights were dim, as if a weak alternator, then the same problem repeated. Speedo to zero, loss of power, then loss of gas pedal entirely, wouldn't start. Just rapid clicking as if the alternator had drained the battery. I waited an hour or so, tried again. This time, maybe a clue. The starter engaged and was turning over the engine normally, normal speed etc, but very, very briefly, the starter I guess disengaged as if it lost power, then quickly re-engaged and started the car before I could even pull my hand away from the switch. I drove about 2 miles, same thing again. There it still sits this morning. Idk if the car would eventually recover, or go dead completely. I turned it off each time. Is it worth noting that the windows went up and down at normal speed with engine off during the apparent bad battery no start condition?

During the repair job, of course the alternator was removed completely, as well as basicalay all of the wiring around the transmission end of the motor where the tcv is. I removed the large red wire going into the fuse and relay box, as well as the large harness connector.

So far I have verified the following:
1) the battery cables are tight and clean at the battery. No corrosion, and the battery is brand new.
2) the connections at the alternator are tight and secure, both the red wire under the nut and the single wire connector.
3) at the fuse box, the connections are tight. The harness connector is plugged back in good, held in place by its little clip, and both large red wires are tightened securely under the nut.

I didn't have a volt meter on me to verify battery voltage with the car running and accessories on, but doesn't it basically HAVE to be charging? After it sits a while, the engine cranks normally, as if a fresh battery. It turns over at normal speed and doesn't sound weak. But it sure gives symptoms of a failing alternator, dim dash lights etc.

What's up with the starter disengaging and re-engaging? Could this be related to temperature? Only happening after the motor is hot? What would happen if two sensors had the same connector and I got them backwards during my wire re-routing? For example the power steering pump and the fan have the same connector, and they will reach. Initially I had them backwards but corrected it before connecting the battery after the job. Could I have mistakenly left off a ground to the block? I don't think so, but...

Thank you to anyone who has read my book, and thank you to anyone who offers an opinion. Again, great site, I have read from here for years, though I post very little. Thank you mods

Post by **oragex** » 24 Mar 2017, 08:28

Sorry, didn't go through all the post. How is the alternator? Does it charge properly? A voltmeter is about $15 so worth buying one. Could it's regulator have got damaged during removal? If it works fine, I'd inspect again all power cables near it, and also at the battery terminals (no corrosion, properly tighten). If all checks fine, I'll look into the battery itself, even new it may have got an issue while being disconnected. Perhaps try another spare battery. The messages you are getting are quite typical of a charging system that's not giving the needed power, even if the car drives and starts perfectly smooth.

Daveliz99 · Post by **Daveliz99** » 24 Mar 2017, 08:53

Thank you oragex. I have a volt meter but haven't had a chance to verify the voltage. It should be about 14.4 at idle with accessories right? Measured at the battery?

I have checked those connections at the battery and the alternator, as well as back at the fuse panel where I removed the harness connector and red power wire. All are good.

Did you know what would happen if two sensors have the same connector, and I got them backwards? I don't know that there are two sensors over there with the same connector, just speculating.

Daveliz99 · Post by **Daveliz99** » 24 Mar 2017, 08:56

Also as far as a spare battery, I could use the one from my truck if that's okay. They're different somehow, my truck is normal but I think the Volvo battery is like a side vent or something because its used inside the vehicle and not under the hood. That okay?

Post by **oragex** » 24 Mar 2017, 10:06

Just to give it a try, it shouldn't be an issue. I have a non original one too. Idle voltage would be about that with the engine warmed, also may check it at higher revs see how it behaves.

I'd try having the ignition key in Pos II when disconnecting the battery, some have reported issues with the CCM because of some power surge.

Daveliz99 · Post by **Daveliz99** » 24 Mar 2017, 10:42

Ok I'll try the battery and the 2 position in the future. What is the ccm?

Post by **mrbrian200** » 24 Mar 2017, 12:03

Daveliz99 wrote:Previously after a combined pcv and o-ring oil pan job, I had the two about abs and stc service, but after a few days they faded in and out then went away completely without me doing anything. I expected the same this time. And indeed, all 4 messages do come and go intermittently, as I have about 100 miles of driving on the job. But...

You've got a flakey power/ground connection somewhere. Sometimes these will pass current with a bit of resistance with no obvious symptoms but will be aggravated when the battery is disconnected for any amount of time. After power is reconnected with time conductivity improves.
To have any chance of solving this you'll need a voltmeter and set of schematics showing power/ground distribution, time and patience.

Daveliz99 · Post by **Daveliz99** » 24 Mar 2017, 13:56

Thank you mrbrian. Schematic of the ignition circuit? Or of more than just that. I may can find one in my alldata, but if not do you have a link to one for a 01 V70 2.4T?

Daveliz99 · Post by **Daveliz99** » 24 Mar 2017, 14:01

any chance conductivity will improve enough that I don't have to do anything as long as I keep the battery on it? I don't remember if I mentioned it in my op, but I started the job, life happened and it took me about 3 months, maybe less, to do it. Battery disconnected the whole time.

Post by **abscate** » 25 Mar 2017, 12:58

Your 2001 has a starter bypass connection in the fusebox, look for a white plastic connector facing up. If you hold a piece of wire to that touching the battery positive terminal, your starter should turn and engage the engine. It won't start unless the key is in POS II, of course.

Search the P80 (Forum above this one) forum for 'P80 remote starter terminal location' to see pictures of same. Be careful with that unfused wire on battery!