98 S70 T5: Mechanic's Findings Topic is solved

[WhatAmIDoing]

Frustrated with an intermittent rough idle, no start, stalling issue, and with next to no tools and no garage, I was forced to take my S70 to the local indie mechanic. Of course, the car behaved while in their possession. They noticed no "substantial oil leaks", vacuum leaks, boost leaks, or other fluid leaks. They pulled 2 codes for O2 sensors (I know the downstream is bad), a "air system code", and "an evap emissions code" (not sure what either of those mean or if I should be concerned). I had a compression test done: 170-180 on all 5 cylinders, so that turned out great. They said "the cap and rotor is arcing and needs to be replaced, and the MAF is very dirty and should be replaced." I feel these are likely culprits for the intermittent issue. The fuel pressure was "good, where it's suppose to be." "The engine overall is in very good shape." Whether this was $225 well spent, I suppose that is debatable.

Something I was not expecting was a much more pressing safety issue. The technician stated there is "over 1 inch of play in both rear wheels". The mechanic told me "both rear axle/wheel bushings are completely shot and need replaced immediately, and the rear struts are also bad but acceptable." He quoted me $690 parts and labor, and would not tell me more. I did not notice any play this past summer when I replaced the parking break shoes. Could this have been aggravated by hitting winter potholes? Not sure if the mechanic was exaggerating the severity just to get my business (I do not plan to give anymore). If it really is this bad, I'm assuming I should not make a 300 mile roadtrip at the end of the month, but that's the only way I'm going to get access to a proper, fully equipped garage. Is there anything else I might as well replace while I'm tearing the rear end apart? Also, does anyone have the parts number for these bushings?

[tryingbe]

Jack the rear up and shake the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock. if you feel pay, wheel bearings are done. Wheel bearings are sealed, you have to replace them as a unit.

Rear wheel bearing replacement

[rguzz]

Which bushings, do you know, maybe you can ask them to specify. Play from bad wheel bearings is important possibly urgent but don't know about need to replace "rear axle-wheel bushings" cuz I have no idea what they are. Several listers have spare MAF sensor so I'd avoid buying a new one if you can. If you feel the need, make it Bosch OEM only. Others will chime in! Findings are positive overall though, not too much bad stuff.

[Cees Klumper]

Apparently mechanic talked about bushings, not bearings. Not sure which bushings are back there, but I would also start with jacking the car up and having a root around; 1 inch play should be easy to locate, it's likely in control arms or such. The rear has shocks, not struts, and usually they are relatively easy and inexpensive to replace.

[scot850]

It is unlikely the wheel bearings themselves would give that amount of play at the wheel unless they were about to fall off and you would have heard them long ago.

What they may mean is the delta links which are expensive parts and are like a ball joint at the end of each axle and there is a bushing at the other end of each axle. If these are that bad you would expect to see a lot of wear on either the inside or outside of the rear tires. Depending on the rust issues in your area, some of the axle mounts in FWD cars can fracture, as can the rear anti-sway bar if one is fitted.

I'd either ask them to clarify what they are saying and show you or take it so someone else for clarity. They may not be trying to rip you off, but I always get uncomfortable when a repair shop does not clarify what they are saying. Ask for a breakdown of the parts and labour costs as this may also clarify what they are saying. Unfortunately some repairs shops are good, but the people that work there can suck on communications.

The advice on jacking the car up is good, but make sure it is supported and have someone move the wheel gripped at 3 and 9 o'clock and look just forward of the rear wheel

Rear anti-sway bar if fitted

Above is the rear anti-sway bar which is mounted on the front of the rear axles and behind the fuel tank

Rear delta link

This is the delta link, and can be seen forward of the rear wheel just inside the rear rocker panel. There is one each side. They have a rubber insert in them that degrades with age and are a bear to replace without the proper tools. On the other end of the axle for each side is a standard bush which also degrades with age. Both are important.

Neil.

[WhatAmIDoing]

Asked for more clarity (or lack there of), and the tech stated they were "the control arm bushings." He also said you could move the wheel back and forth without jacking up the car. I did not notice this 1 inch of play in the gravel parking lot out back. There is also no uneven wear on the rear tires, which makes me suspicious. And there was zero play when I replaced the parking break shoes last summer. This is the part they wanted to install, quoted $112 each, plus $450 labor. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/febi ... 10781614-P

[WhatAmIDoing]

So did some searching on FCP. Found this part which appears to match the one above https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... nk-3516122 Searching the OE # gave me these results https://www.fcpeuro.com/Volvo-parts/S70 ... ds=3516122 I guess this is what they were talking about. So much for $224 in parts.

Looking at the invoice, fuel pressure was "37 at idle and 45 off idle." Allegedly this is "good". Codes pulled were PO141 and PO136 O2 sensor, PO410 air system, and PO440 evap system.

Going to order a new Bosch distributor cap and rotor tonight, along with a new serpentine belt. Plan on replacing that and the fuel filter this week. Will likely hold off on suspension parts for now until I understand what's going on.

[abscate]

Parts and labour are about right. The delta is not the only bushing back there, there are four bushings and mounts total.

This is a nasty job and four hours labour is a low estimate, IMHO. I work slowly but had 10 hours into this job and mine fell apart on unbolting.

Get that rear wheel jacked up and test the play

[WhatAmIDoing]

Jacked the car up to replace the fuel filter. Sporting a shiny new Bosch now instead of corroded "Made in China". Distributor cap arrived damaged from FCP, so that's going to have to wait. I felt no play in either rear wheel with hands at 12 & 6 and 9 & 3, wheels in the air or on the ground. I can see what I believe is the delta link. The rubber is deteriorating, but no play makes me think it's okay for now.

[sleddriver]

How does a shipper damage a dist. cap? Those things are built stout! I've cleaned up both before with a Moto-tool. Remove all evidence of carbon tracking. Replace and see if the problem goes away. You can clean the MAF with a CRC spray. Don't use brake cleaner!!

Odd, intermittent, hard starts, hesitation, coughs, etc. can also be due to deterioting wire insulation on both camshaft & crank position sensors. Also ensure the coil wire is as far as possible from their wires.