98 S70 T5: Mechanic's Findings Topic is solved

[WhatAmIDoing]

The box looked like it went skydiving without a parachute. I'm pretty sure it's the factory cap and rotor. After 250k miles, I think it's time to replace. I have CRC MAF cleaner, so will clean when I replace the air filter. I'm going to reroute the coil wire. At 20 years old, not going to rule out deteriorating insulation. Got a new Bosch cap last night, so time to get to work.

[Bricks_and_boxcars]

Here's what I've found on the 1998 s70 glt turbo I owned some years ago which sported some of the same intermittent odd behaviors:
1) Every electrical connector to every sensor and junction point was pulled apart. I found a fair amount of corrosion and oxidation. I cleaned them with some electronics cleaner and many though not all of the spurious faults cleared including a potentially deadly p030x set of codes and the flashing MIL. The grounds were done at the same time.
2) I could've kept the original MAF in the car though given the amount of dirt found I replaced that. It was about 90 dollars. I did clean the new one regularly after.
3) Front 02 sensor tested bad, replaced.
4) EVAP got a fresh charcoal canister and purge hoses/elbows. Eventually the PAIR pump was replaced, 15 dollars at the local pick a part. Cleared up those codes and rich conditions.
5) Driveaxles, ball joints (integral with the control arms) and tie rod ends were done.
6) The oil separator and intake manifold gasket were both done and most small vacuum lines were also replaced. There's a small line under the intake that was changed at the same time, this one breaks near the manifold.

There's more and this work was done over time. Ultimately the car ran well though since underhood temperatures tend to be quite high with the turbo models (yours is an HPT or high pressure turbo) this is somewhat to be expected. I then got almost 300000 miles out of it with regular maintenance after all of that reconditioning work was done.
That's a pretty big list and the result of poor maintenance over the years until I got it.
Yours is quite fixable, stick with it and it'll last a while. If a mechanic is vague get another opinion. I'm not in the business of vague and when I hear a less than quality answer I tend to look elsewhere. I usually have at least taken a look at it and though I'm no expert I do have some years tinkering and far and away these are some of the better cars out there.
Good luck and don't give up on it.

[WhatAmIDoing]

So I got some good news, some not good news and very bad news. Replaced the distributor cap and rotor, didn't look too good even though the shop cleaned it (pics attached). Engine seems to run better now.

Fuel pump made a really bad moaning sound before a warm start. Fuel pump is new with less than 15,000 miles.

And now for the very bad news. I found no play in the rear wheels, so I took a two hour drive since the weather was nice. After about an hour and a half, the rear end started feeling floaty and like it was swaying. Pulled into a parking lot. Bystander said the right rear wheel was wobbling. Couldn't budge it. Went to the left rear wheel, could move it about 1 to 2 inches in every direction. Guessing it goes without saying, but I probably should not drive it now. Now it's sitting in a parking lot hundreds of miles from home. Now I'm faced with the choice: do I fix it or sell it (I really don't want to).

[rguzz]

What is the source of the play according to what you see when you wiggle the wheel? Sounds like you need to get it home anyway, so selling or keeping (unless you put a 4 sale sign on it in a remote from home parking lot) will be a decision for later. Bad news, but not very bad news, at least you didn't burn a valve or break a TB. Others?

[erikv11]

Ditto on the source of play - are you sure its not loose lug nuts (sorry if that is too obvious)?

[WhatAmIDoing]

I checked the lug nuts first thing, on tight. I could not see anything moving behind the tire. Previous shop said it was the trailing arm links (part # 3516122). I did not notice them moving, but the rubber is pretty deteriorated. If I jack the car up (one side at a time with the emergency jack), then the rear wheels will not budge and I do not notice anything. What all parts are back there that could be the source of the play?

[sleddriver]

Now I'm confused....you checked lug nuts, hub bolts, long swing arm bolts & rubber, grabbed wheels & push/pulled, and all was tight previously?

And now for the very bad news. I found no play in the rear wheels, so I took a two hour drive since the weather was nice. After about an hour and a half, the rear end started feeling floaty and like it was swaying. Pulled into a parking lot. Bystander said the right rear wheel was wobbling. Couldn't budge it. Went to the left rear wheel, could move it about 1 to 2 inches in every direction

Yet after an extended drive, you could move one rear wheel 1-2" in all directions? Did you jack it up or leave it on the ground? Also don't understand the right/left wheel mix up either as they're on opposite sides.

Somethings loose...and screwy. Still confused.....

[scot850]

I appreciate not everyone want to you to know where they live, but maybe there is another enthusiast in your area that may be able to give a second set of eyes on the issue? You have a Canadian flag so if you are near Calgary I will gladly help you.

Neil.

[WhatAmIDoing]

I was moving the wheel on the ground. There is so much play that I'm not sure if I could even break the lug nuts loose. When I jack up the left side however, it won't budge. I do not see anything that looks obviously broken. Maybe the bystander meant left but said right. I thoroughly checked everything before driving and found nothing unusual. I found a mechanic 3 miles away who said he would look at the rear end for "free" and tell me what's wrong. Now I just have to drive there very carefully.

I move around frequently all over North America and hardly ever see home. I wish I was in Calgary right now. I posted a topic in the "Help a Neighbor" section. viewtopic.php?f=34&t=81031

[abscate]

OP currently stuck outside PHL area ,FYI

Bystanders can be very bad sources of information. If a hubcap is slightly askew, your wheel will look like its wobbling.

Jack to wheel up. Don't go underneath.

Pull the wheel towards you...lean with body weight, then push with body weight. Any noises, motion, klunks?

Now grab at 9oc and 3 o'clock, and try to twist the wheel with arm strength. Any play or klunks?

If you can't feel anything and there are no loud noises, drive it a mile then go back and feel for heat, carefully. Use the back of you hand as blisters are much less painful there.