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TCM Control Module Adaptation - NOT Resetting the Adaptation Topic is solved

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This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » TCM Control Module Adaptation - AW55-50
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Botbasher
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Volvo Repair Database TCM Control Module Adaptation - NOT Resetting the Adaptation

Post by Botbasher »

After my recent experiences and discoveries with the loveable slush box we know as the AW55-50/51SN, I thought I would jot them all down for those either having similar issues but finding no joy, or those facing similar issues and wondering what to do. I searched MVS for a deeper explanation for this oft overlooked and somewhat complicated tool to help with big transmission issues but couldn't find anything that really told just how amazing the change that VIDA and this procedure can be! Now... without further adieu...

Let me, before I start into what I did, explain what the difference between the two types of "calibrations" that the AW55-50SN can do. You have a Control Module Adaptation (CMA) and you have a Reset the Adaptation (RA).

The CMA is akin to writing new lines on a blank piece of paper. The TCM (Transmission Control Module) knows about where the lines should be and by going through a series of controlled shifts, it writes the lines that the trans will follow. When you do something big to the trans like a new/rebuilt Valve Body, new/rebuilt Linear Solenoids or even replace leaking internal gaskets, you should do a CMA since the "lines" will now be different to the TCM.

The RA is like a school text book where someone took notes in it. You can read the book, but off to the side, you get the answers the teacher really wants and you get an "A" in the class thanks to Bob, Class of '62! The TCM is always learning and taking notes. Those notes are great for the current set up, but they need to be erased and start over when you do something simple like change the fluid. Resetting the learning back to a known set of good values.

Sven on the way home.
Sven on the way home.

I picked up a well trod 2003 V70 T5, named Sven. It ran fine, but had a massive 2-3 and 3-4 shift that if it caught you off guard would try to rip the car out from under you. Additionally some of the down shifts nearly stopped the car and put me up against the belts at times. Driving it in Geartronic (manual shift) Mode helped as you could feather it between the gears going up and shift down at the stops. Forget up shifting in the corners... it was scary coming out! So, with the help of the MVS gang, I set about the basics to try and recover Sven's trans without replacing it.

There is a oft spoken wisdom about working with flares and hard shifts in the AW55-50SN transmissions no matter what car they are in. They are:

  • 1) Fluid Changes
  • 2) B4 Update (if applicable)
  • 3) Reflash TCU (if applicable)
  • 4) Reset the Adaptation
  • 5) Valve Body Rebuild/Swap

and finally...

  • 6) Replacement of Trans.
Not being one to buck conventional wisdom... I changed the ATF, it was brown with a hint of red. It had been a while since anyone had paid attention to this transmission. Luckily the magnetic plug wasn't holding onto anything too big and ugly so although the interval was long, the signs said nothing too bad had happened. Whew.... but the joy was not long lived as I did not have VIDA-DICE yet so I couldn't do the RA. A quick drive finished any hope as it did drive a bit better, but the flares were still scary! OK, on to step #2!

The B4 Update (well documented elsewhere on MVS and elsewhere) was easy and cheap. Mine had not been done as there was an AK3 on the cover. Current appears to be AK4 on my replacement and in pics documenting the procedure. A few choice words and scrapped fingers later and it was in. NOW here is where things started to go awry without me knowing. The B4 update should require a CMA, as it changes a core component of the transmission, but reading the instructions, they just say to do a RA and away you go. So with the help of a local Volvo Nut with VIDA, we did the RA and I drove off into the sunset... till it shifted into 3rd! weeeeeeee...Clunk!

OK, I was going to have to go into the trans to cure what ailed Sven! I got a Valve Body off eBay and was intent on swapping it in until I did a little more research on the Linear Solenoids that control the AW55-50SN. Again, a fairly well documented procedure (I'll post a follow up with all the links I used to get me through) that with a couple of tools and the holding of the tongue in various positions, was easily completed and appeared to be successful. They now were smooth as silk. I reinstalled all 3 "SL" Solenoids along with a donor set of known good "S" Valves (the ones that control gears) and filled Sven to the line with fresh ATF, performed a RA (again, should have been a CMA) and took him out for a putt around the block.

And low and behold... it got better. Not perfect but better. I was also told that it took several hundred miles to "learn" fully (more on this later). So I set about driving it as much as I could. It got better, but there were still issues with flares. Much smaller but still present and different. I had read many trans repair posts about where cars were fixed, but issues remained and were lived with. I'm not like that and knew that I'd fix them... even if it took replacing the trans.

This could get expensive...

Will our Hero fix the trans or will the Evil AW55-50SN rule the Universe? Stay tuned for the next exciting episode...
Last edited by Botbasher on 10 May 2017, 10:00, edited 1 time in total.
Never become a pessimist. A pessimist is correct oftener than an optimist, but an optimist has more fun, and neither can stop the march of events.-Heinlein

We have met the enemy and he is us.-Pogo

If speed kills, do brakes give life??

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Post by Botbasher »

We last left our Hero despondent after the Evil AW55-50SN crushed his hopes for a simple fix.... we now join our Hero, deep in thought in his Fortress of Learning... OK, OK... I was surfing the web and learning VIDA!!! :D

So I started diving deeper into my recently purchased VIDA/DICE and while looking around the TCM module portion, I found the CMA option... Hmmmmmmm That sounds promising. I was quickly running out of options, with only replacing the Valve Body and Replacing the Trans remaining, but I had an obstacle that I hadn't planned on.

Sven had a PHM (Phone) module when he came home. It wasn't subscribed and didn't work as far as I could tell, so why not yank it out fully. The problem was that it not working or even being present caused a DTC that displayed in the DIM and also showed up as a Yellow Warning Triangle. This is the part that's important... You need to have ALL errors that cause a Warning Triangle cleared before you can do a CMA. The CMA DOES NOT OVERRIDE THE OTHER ERRORS!!! IT WILL NEVER FLASH COMPLETE!!!

Now when Volvo killed OnCall you could complain and have a patch downloaded that eliminated this error, but that time has long gone according to my local Stealership that wanted $200 to start plus any charges to download the fixes. So with the help of fellow MVS user Yagger, we deleted the PHM (in less than an hour!) and cleared the Yellow Triangle of Annoyance. WOOT WOOT WOOT. For the 1st time since I brought him home, Sven was error free. No DIM warnings. No Warning Triangles. No DTCs. NADA!!! OK... now its GAME ON!!!

So I set out last evening to run a CMA and see if there was any hope for this trans or if I was going to have to swap in that Valve Body! The results...???

Let me explain the CMA for those that haven't done or looked into it. You run a series of increasing RPMs (not speeds) until the TCM flashes the Yellow Triangle for you. It's a lot more difficult than it sounds as it may take a dozen or more runs for it to approve. Here's how it goes:

  • You drive the car (which can be scary depending on the trans condition until oil temp is acceptable and it shows you "Transmission Fluid Temp Too High" in the DIM Text window. VIDA warns you not to "stall" the trans to warm it faster.
  • 1000RPM - Hold the pedal (hint on this one later) and let the car reach the highest gear it can at this RPM - 3rd in my car last night. Triangle will flash for a few seconds (actually it simply lights up, then turns off... don't blink or you can miss it!) and you come to a stop.
  • 1200RPM - Hold the pedal and let the car reach the highest gear it can at this RPM - Probably 4th depending on terrain. Triangle will flash for a few seconds and you come to a stop.
  • 1400RPM - Hold the pedal and let the car reach the highest gear it can at this RPM - Should hit 5th. Triangle will flash for a few seconds and you come to a stop.
  • 1800PRM - Hold the pedal and let the car reach the highest gear it can at this RPM - Should hit 5th. Triangle will flash for a few seconds and you come to a stop.
  • 2200RPM - Hold the pedal and let the car reach the highest gear it can at this RPM - Easily hit 5th. Triangle will flash for a few seconds and you come to a stop.
So, my hints on this process??

  • DO NOT TURN OFF THE CAR TILL DONE. This stops the CMA and you'll have to start the process over.
  • Start off with at least 3/4 tank of gas. You use a lot depending on how many times you have to make runs and it's dead weight which better approximates real world loads on the trans for better shifting.
  • Do your Homework - Find a long lonely road. 2200 in 5th gear can get you close to 60mph. You need a long, straight, deserted road to do this on. Scope out a road long before you start the process. I tried several only to be interrupted and find myself hitting the brakes hard at the higher RPMs when a turn I thought was far away really wasn't that far off by the time it decided to shift or flash.
  • Pedal Position - This is a big one and the hardest one to deal with. Most cannot hold a pedal at one position. Naturally we push and release it naturally. The trick... Once you start the CMA you can leave the screen in VIDA. Go to the VEHICLE COMMUNICATIONS tab and highlight TCM. Click on the Parameters tab, add Acceleration PedalPosition by double clicking on it. You should now see it in the Parameter/Value window and it should be at 0%. Press the pedal and watch the motor rev and % increase. I also added Oil Temp (this is ATF oil) and Engine Speed. Now hit ENLARGE in the lower right along the bottom. ZOOM!!! Now you can see your Pedal Position and hold it regardless of what the car does RPM wise.
  • Ride Share - Get a buddy to ride along so you can watch the Pedal Position and for the Triangle and he can watch the road. At 1800 and 2200 you run out of road really fast

I had a lot of issues trying to get 1800 and 2200 completed. I think I even completed them and missed the triangle while avoiding traffic and turning. It takes a lot to do all these at the same time!! It took me a bit more than an hour of steady rolling to complete all the runs. Pulling out into traffic and trying to hold 1400RPM is just insane and other drivers simply don't get Volvos needs!! :?

You can also use this to cure rough P-D transitions and clunky down shifts on slowing. Very simple instructions detail how to achieve each and they really do help. My suggestion on these options though is to do them separately. I think it knows what you are trying to do (based on speed and stopping, but I noticed it responds much faster if done individually rather than stringing them all together.

The Results.... Stay Tuned!!!
Last edited by Botbasher on 10 May 2017, 10:07, edited 3 times in total.
Never become a pessimist. A pessimist is correct oftener than an optimist, but an optimist has more fun, and neither can stop the march of events.-Heinlein

We have met the enemy and he is us.-Pogo

If speed kills, do brakes give life??

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Post by Botbasher »

The Results.... STUNNING!!!!

I drove Sven home from the school lot I had been using for runs with great trepidation. I expected every shift, especially 2-3 to flare and had resolved myself to digging back into the trans to swap out the VB at a minimum, but as the miles tallied up, the shifts remained butter smooth. Even my son, who I had noticed bracing for the shift jolts noticed the change. It was surreal to drive it expecting to get jolted at every shift, only to hear a slight uptick in RPM and the sensation of acceleration after the shift. You read guys saying "It drives like a new car."... well.... IT DRIVES LIKE A NEW CAR!!

This morning, 58F... so cold oil, I shifted it into Rev and could barely feel it engage. N-D... again, only the slightest notion of forward push before releasing the brakes. Before today there was always a noticeable step as the AW55-50SN has a 2 stage Drive engagement where it allows 50% engagement for a few hundredths of a second before allowing 100%. This can cause a "step" when shifting into D and if you don't wait for it to fully engage, a hard bark into D as the revs come up before 100% engagement is complete.

I need to get it really hot to see if there are any temp issues, but I am also adding a cooler (to be documented later) that should keep everything much cooler than just a stock pass-through. Heat is the sworn enemy of ATF and although the OEM pass-through cooler works, it keeps it a lot warmer than it needs to be!

I realize that my results are a combination of several processes (fluid changes and valve rebuild/swaps), but the addition of the CMA was pivotal in accessing a tool that really isn't mentioned much in posts regarding Trans Flares and Clunky Shifting. My own process for correcting trans shifting issues now will be:

  • 1. Fluid Changes
  • 2. B4 Update (if applicable, current is AK4)
  • 3. Reflash TCU (if applicable and only needed if you still have the dreaded Neutral-Stop)
  • 4. Reset the Adaptation
  • 5. CMA
  • 6. SL Solenoid Cleaning/Rebuild
  • 7. CMA
  • 8. S Valves Swapped
  • 9. CMA
  • 10. Valve Body Swap/Rebuild
  • 11. CMA
and finally

  • 12. Replacement of Trans.
  • 13. CMA
Quite a change from where I started out only a few weeks ago, huh? :)

In closing...

  • RA is only good to clear out the notes from the previous fluid. Not reteaching the TCM how to use it's transmission.
  • CMA rewrites how the TCM uses the trans and it's Linear Solenoids (which are not just open and close valves, but can open incrementally hence the need to teach the TCU about them) and can correct everything from shift flares to P-D clunks.
  • The change should be instant. If after doing a CMA and restarting the car you still have issues, then a mechanical fault is most likely your issue. The RA may continue to learn for many miles, but the CMA is instant.
  • Rebuilding SL (Linear) Solenoids isn't hard and as long as you have the right sized drill bit can make a HUGE difference in your transmissions operation
  • Do not short cut the CMA process. It will serve no purpose. It is long and is at the whim of the TCM. Only do a CMA when you have lots of time (I'd say 90min minimum)
If you have tried everything short of replacing your AW55-50SN... give that list a try. You have little to loose and a lot to save!!

Thanks for spending your day reading my drivel!

Cheers!

K "Butter Smooth" S
Never become a pessimist. A pessimist is correct oftener than an optimist, but an optimist has more fun, and neither can stop the march of events.-Heinlein

We have met the enemy and he is us.-Pogo

If speed kills, do brakes give life??

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Post by Botbasher »

For Reference on all I used to correct the issues with the AW55-50SN

Linear Solenoids

Yard Rebuild of the SL (Linear) Solenoids. I did not saw into mine, instead using a pair of micro flush cutters from my Digital Electronics kit to preform the opening... and tapping the edges back flush with a large (1.25") box end wrench. You would be hard pressed to tell thy had been open at any distance but in your hands!



Rostra's video... I am thinking of tearing back into the trans and adding their "no clog" ports into my SLs. It makes total sense!



A good show of how tight the SLs can get



B4 Servo Cover Update.





MVS User Precopster's show of a AW55-50SN teardown. Great pics of the B4 and other parts!! viewtopic.php?t=61600

AW55-50SN Reference Information

From Sonax... The go-to for AW parts

http://www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/19 ... nformation

MVS User Precopster strikes again with a great Valve Body Rebuild Video!!



Another AW55-50SN walkthrough. Great to know where you are going before you get there!! This one also details out the base adjustments for your SL Solenoids in case you get lost or forget what you started with



I'll add more as I have several written down on a notepad and not bookmarked...

Ciao!

K "Nerdy" S
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We have met the enemy and he is us.-Pogo

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Post by Tonyx »

I wish I can give thumbs up on your thorough posts! Well done and thanks!
2003 XC70 230K and counting..,

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Post by Botbasher »

Tonyx wrote: 10 May 2017, 11:01 I wish I can give thumbs up on your thorough posts! Well done and thanks!
Thanks Tonyx!

There's so much info about most every aspect of the AW trans repairs except the importance of the CMA that I thought I'd bring it to the light. If it's out there, it's not easy to find as I'm usually pretty good with that and it never registered till I read about it in VIDA.

Maybe it helps pull someone out of the weeds a little sooner. I don't think I'd have bought a Valve Body (is still on my bench) if I'd have known about the effect of the CMA earlier. I'd have looked at the process a little differently at a minimum.

Glad you enjoy the download... it's cathartic to get out!!

K " :D " S
Never become a pessimist. A pessimist is correct oftener than an optimist, but an optimist has more fun, and neither can stop the march of events.-Heinlein

We have met the enemy and he is us.-Pogo

If speed kills, do brakes give life??

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Post by Azionwarrior »

How did you enter the CMA through VIDA? For some reason the Diagnostic CMA section in the version that I have indicates software upgrades and I don't see how to activate the procedure that you have presented.

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Post by pvfjr »

Thanks for putting all this information together. I've been going down the same path as you with my newly rescued 2004 XC70. I did the fluid, the B4 servo cover, and deleted the old adaptation and fluid counter as I read about in a UK forum. It has gotten a LOT better, and no longer shifts in a way that I would describe as violent. It still doesn't always shift "normal", but I've only got 15 miles on it. I've got a feeling my solenoids may be a bit sticky, and am happy to see a solution here.

The bad news is, VIDA can't talk to my BCM at all, I've got codes I can't get rid of, and I won't be able to use the yellow light for a CMA any time soon. :cry:

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Post by abscate »

Tonyx wrote: 10 May 2017, 11:01 I wish I can give thumbs up on your thorough posts! Well done and thanks!

Now you can give BotBasher a thumbs up for this awesome write-up, now destined for VRD
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Post by hethaerto »

Outstanding!!
8)

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