2006 XC90 2.5T Timing Belt Flew Off

[SoapyCoyote]

Thanks SuperHerman, I will leave the cams where they are and attempt to move the sprockets and hubs. Found this camshaft locking tool on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Camshaft-Cra ... cking+tool

I'm still trying to figure out how to correctly move the sprockets and hubs over. Do I need the camshaft locking tool to do this? How do I make sure they are in the right position for timing?

[SoapyCoyote]

Yeah after watching the video posted earlier in this thread, looks like I'm going to need the camshaft locking tool. Still though, how do I make sure that the hubs and sprockets are in the right place?

[SoapyCoyote]

Sprockets are off. Made a cam locking tool. Feels like I'm making progress, hopefully I get the timing right and don't bend my new valves.

[SoapyCoyote]

this looks helpful https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/cvvt- ... olvos.html

[SuperHerman]

Yes that post looks good. If you get stuck ask before start it.

[mrbrian200]

How are coming on that Soap? I was a little concerned when you mentioned making your own cam locking tool. I'm not sure if you might bend your new valves if it doesn't hold while torquing down the VVT hub bolts. You wouldn't mind sharing what you made just to put my mind at ease?

[SoapyCoyote]

Got the Cylinder Head torqued down, got the exhaust manifold bolted on, got the Turbo Coolant Line bolted on. Been hard to find time to work on it due to family reunions and kid watching duty. I'm trying to figure out when the best time is to torque down the Cam Hubs. I think I should wait to torque them down until after I get the Valve Cover paint rolled with RTV and sealed up and torqued down first. I will try and take a picture of the home-made Cam Lock Tool bolted onto my old Cylinder Head.

[SoapyCoyote]

Well here's a quick video of the tool. Really bad lighting, sorry. I will try and get a better picture uploaded tomorrow. It's basically some angle iron and a screw and a hole drilled out for the pin on the driver's side of the cylinder head. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pDg3vWTFdLw

[SoapyCoyote]

I went ahead and ordered that tool from Amazon. It looks like it will hold stronger and better and I don't want to risk all of my hard work and money on trying to pinch a penny on a $50 tool and waiting a couple days for it to get here. Also, the tool comes with the screws for clamping down my valve cover so that's a bonus.

[SuperHerman]

Soapy - a favor - can you take a picture of your engine block from above without the head on and with the crank set to the correct timing mark? The reason I ask is I want to see where the pistons sit in their rotation when the crank is set at its mark - specifically if the engine is not at a true TDC. I know that on the 2.9 when the crank is set at the timing mark all of the cylinders are down low enough that no valves can hit the pistons if the camshafts are rotated to their correct positions. I think this may have been discussed earlier in your post or maybe it was in another one. Regardless it will help others in the future.

So to clarify - if you would be so kind, set your crank gear mark to the mark on the oil pump as if you were setting it for timing. Then take a picture which has all 5 cylinders showing as well as the piston tops.

The picture will answer if one has to worry about turning the cams and damaging the valves if the crank is timed and the timing belt is missing. I failed to do it when I had my 2.4T apart - and wished I did.

On your rebuild of the head do not use RTV between the head and the cam cover - use anaerobic sealant. I used Permatex bought from NAPA. You don't need much, but I have used it on multiple vehicles so it will come in handy in the future. The oil pan also uses it if you drop that at some point.