Help with powering S60 seat -- Not in a Car Topic is solved

[seany001]

Hang tight my a$$!! I'm gonna figure this out! I'm 20 years old and feel like I'm 80. NOT GOOD. And I'm already 90% done

Haha sorry got a little carried away.

Update: so I have decided to go without the seat bolster airbag. My moms Dodge Cravan doesn't have one, my Grandmothers Impala doesn't have one, it would be pompous to think I should have one while they don't.

This is the last step to getting the Volvo seats in the car. I have done EVERYTHING Else.

I'm trying to trick the computer to think there's one installed. The resistance of the bag (didn't explode... releif) is almost a short. 0.7 of an ohm which with my multimeter is a basic short. I have tried a 20ohm resistor, a fuse (because after research that's all that's basically inside the airbag to start the chemical reaction) and just a flat short, and nothing has worked.

My next test is to see if there's continuity between the cars frame and the airbag. I HIGHLY doubt this as it doesnt seem possible, butt ya never know. The airbag is bolted to the seat frame, and that seat is bolted to the car.

Any other ideas for fooling a side airbag? Another idea I will try is a potentiometer to troubleshoot resistance.

This is just to take off that pesky airbag light, as the car still works fine.

[seany001]

Also, the airbag I've been testing still works fine, and the warning light disappears after reconnecting it.

There are only two wires going to the airbag for detonation. I wish so bad I could take on apart safely.

[abscate]

I seem to remember it is a fairly complex AC signal that interrogates the SRS so I think you will need to match RC or even LC to get it fooled. Its a tough search but someone talked about it on MVS in the past years.

[jbeebo]

OK, I don't think this is a good idea for all the aforementioned reasons. I wouldn't do it and don't think you should either but some education might be useful.

As I understand automotive airbag igniters are basically a piece of nichrome wire embedded in a pyro chemical. Apply current, the wire heats up, starts ignition, etc.
http://www.mccannscience.com/AirBagIgn.htm

A quick search turns up a device called an "airbag simulator"
If you know the resistance value you can do like this dude:
Here's how someone did it on their Audi TT when they installed aftermarket seats: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.p ... enger-Seat
But first you need to measure it the correct way:

Believe it or not there are companies that make actual devices to do this. Please note the disclaimer on their website. http://www.airbagsystems.com/simulator.html
https://www.otctools.com/products/air-bag-simulator

And of course some folks have made these in China and will sell them on fleabay for $5 https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R ... s&_sacat=0

[mrbrian200]

Passengers will still get cranky and uncomfortable on a long drive. Even though your driver seat is nice and comfy it may only solve half the problem.

[seany001]

Update, a 5 ohm resistor did the trick! All is set and now i have beautiful volvo seats in my Prius. WOOO! Thanks all

[2mc]

My passenger seat is identical to the first seat in this post. However my drivers seat has an addition 3 memory positions and the circuit board is a different configuration. I'm also trying to fit these Volvo seats into another vehicle. Jeebo can you help me sort out the wiring. I have posted some pictures of the actual seat switch. 3 of the 4 switches are wired the same as the first seat one in this thread however the first switch is different. any help would be appreciated. thx

[2mc]

pictures

[mrbrian200]

Seany001 do basic memory store/recall functions work with the Volvo seat in your Prius?

[abscate]

I'm going to guess that later seat is controlled by CANBUS, whereas wades seat was analog

That's going to take some coding and hardware to tune up that tuba