can bad battery jam shifter?

[bmdubya1198]

I think the battery is probably shot. A trickle charge probably won't do much... your best bet is going to Autozone to get the battery load tested. If it's bad, which is likely is, get a new one.

[wizechatmgr]

Yeah, get it done now. It absolutely sucks being stranded in winter, double so if you DIY... I've been there, I've done that, and no - they don't give out Tee Shirts.

[enotslim]

Dealer says the correct battery could be either CCA 600 or 540 and the difference matters. The replacement should match the current battery for some reasons related to the electrical components throughout the car. Does this sound right? Most are 600 but I won't be able to examine mine for awhile to tell which it is. I naively thought more CCA was better.

[bmdubya1198]

The more CCA the better. I think I used a 540 before and it wouldn't hold a charge. Had to jump the car every single time I started it... even if it was within a couple hours. Switched to a 600cca and no problems since.
You need an H5 or H6 battery. I wouldn't use less than 600cca.

[enotslim]

Is AGM technology clearly better? I've read that AGM is more forgiving of deep discharges but Autozone told me the opposite over the phone. Autozone is selling H6 730 CCA lead acid 5 yr warranty and H6 760 CCA AGM 3 yr batteries for almost the same price. 600 CCA replacement from Volvo dealer is $10 less so seems like poor deal (don't know the warranty but unlikely it is more than 5 yr). Lead acid should work well but might as well get AGM if it truly is better?

[bmdubya1198]

That's when you'll have to do some research. I'm not too familiar with AGM batteries, but I know it's newer technology and it's supposed to be better. A quick Google search should pull up some helpful results.

So it seems that the main advantage of AGM batteries is that they store a lot better, and won't die as quickly as a wet cell lead acid.

[scot850]

Check with the Volvo dealer on the warranty. They normally now give a lifetime warranty on OE parts they fit. If they charge to fit the battery they are being cheeky.

Neil.

[bmdubya1198]

Check with the Volvo dealer on the warranty. They normally now give a lifetime warranty on OE parts they fit. If they charge to fit the battery they are being cheeky.

Neil.

I wonder if that lifetime warranty applies to batteries?

It's nice they do that lifetime warranty though. Unfortunately I wouldn't let them install any parts and wouldn't pay for it anyway, so I have to deal with the measly 1 year warranty. Which is why I stick to FCP Euro.

[abscate]

If the car is in normal use, just get a standard lead acid battery from Advance or a discount place.

CCA aren't critical and battery matching is not a " thing" with P80s or even P2s.

I don't think there is a difference in 1,2,3 year warranties on a given line, just a actuarial cost difference.

I've got a 6 year old NAPA in my 99 that still starts on well on our coldest -10F days

[enotslim]

Question about battery testing. AAA tested something with the engine running immediately after jump start and said the battery was bad. Auto Zone says the battery must be fully charged to be tested (when out of the car because I can't drive to them) and this can take an hour or longer. Battery would not have been fully charged when AA did test. Does this matter? Can one test a battery with engine running without the battery being fully charged? I got over 14.0-14.5 V across the battery terminals with car running after jump starting, meaning the alternator is OK, correct?

I don't doubt the battery should be replaced and I wil do this. Just want to better understand battery and alternator testing (while I commute by bike (bicycle), which is much better all around anyway).