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Front end clunk... Anyone tried these ?

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

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precopster
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Re: Front end clunk... Anyone tried these ?

Post by precopster »

I used the Pro-Parts bushing kit from FCP and that same noise quietened down to zero for about 10 days. It still does it occasionally on low speed driveway entry or the like so I'm going to go back in and retorque the bolts on the subframe and I'll report in.

BTW I didn't trim the Pro Parts bushes as I didn't want to lose any valuable material from them. I used massive amounts of grease on them and used an impact gun to put the bolts back in. I couldn't imagine fitting them with a breaker bar as the impact motion really helped them "jerk" into place.

BIG IMPROVEMENT IN STEERING RESPONSE
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theWIFES_S70
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Post by theWIFES_S70 »

clifford06 wrote: 29 Nov 2017, 20:04 My bushings are original Volvo. I really am tired of spending money on this car and hoped these inserts would help.
I feel your pain, man.

Good luck and let us know if they work out for you.
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1998 Volvo S70, N/A, 5-speed, 187K
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theWIFES_S70
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Post by theWIFES_S70 »

clifford06 wrote: 29 Nov 2017, 20:04 My bushings are original Volvo. I really am tired of spending money on this car and hoped these inserts would help.
I feel your pain, man.

Good luck and let us know if they work out for you.
Retired:
1998 Volvo S70, N/A, 5-speed, 187K
2007 Volvo S40, 2.4i, 5-speed, 121K
2015 Volvo S60, T5, 85K

clifford06
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Post by clifford06 »

I think I'll give the inserts a try. Just went to move it so my son could park my truck , and guess what ? Oil leak spots on ground. Time to patch it and drive it . In the words of Ivan Drago ( Rocky #3, I think ) , "If he dies, He dies " .

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Post by bmdubya1198 »

I've had an ATF leak because of my junk rebuilt axle for at least 7 months now. The level doesn't go down, so it's on the "I'll get to it" list. Also waiting on the PaP to get a good axle for me...
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clifford06
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Post by clifford06 »

After further review. Tire rod ends are shot. Driver side wheel moves when tested by 3 and 6 o'clock test method. Passenger side tie rod boot is cracked and split. This car is always seeking attention.

scot850
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Post by scot850 »

Welcome to the old Volvo club. Unfortunately the age of these cars, people who buy them don't maintain them until us crazies buy them and try to resurrect them!

Check the inner and outer tie rods while working in there as they both wear. If you are just replacing the outer, mark a point on the inner one clearly, and count the number of turns off of the old one and the same for going back on with the new. The re-measure fro you mark to the center of the ball joint end on the outer. It will give you a good starting point if you don't have an alignment done. I strongly recommend having a 4 wheel alignment done after changing any of the steering components to save your tires.

Good luck.

Neil.
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precopster
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Post by precopster »

Worn tie rods aren't noisy in my experience but while you're in there...... :D

These jobs are pretty essential to safe driving especially at high speed.
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clifford06
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Post by clifford06 »

Well the ends are shot from what I see. I'll just replace inner and outer to be safe. If this doesn't solve the clunk I'll try the inserts.

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Post by Daveliz99 »

oragex wrote: 28 Nov 2017, 17:08
erikv11 wrote: 27 Nov 2017, 21:41 Make sure the sway bar end links are tight. Very tight. Very very tight. And check the engine3 mount, sway bar bushings as suggested.

Problems with the subframe bushings are possible, but they are very rare while the other things mentioned are very common.

Then you will have a problem undoing them. A faint repeated knocking while drving in city on irregular pavement is also caused by worn anti roll bar to subframe busings. The bar will then move and knock on the control arm, usually leaving a small dent to the arm. These bushings fail after 120k miles and are not fun to replace.
I'm assuming you mean the subframe bushings fail after 120k and are hard to replace? Is that correct?

Also I read another thread today from a guy who replaced his xc70 sway bar with one from an xc90. He said he had a noise he couldn't find and could also see where something was hitting the control arm. After rebuilding his suspension, he still had the noise. So, are you saying that the noise in his case is likely caused by subframe bushings?

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