98 V70 non turbo Oil Pump Replacement - need some help

[abscate]

Found this video on oil pump RR

[youtube][/youtube]

[98v70dad]

I'm from the mythical flat lands of Kansas, it reality Kansas is not flat. If my interpretation of "Beater" if correct. of is correct, A Beater is a sacrificial vehicle used to preserve a more presence vehicle.

Come on, I invite intercultural exchange.

That's a very good definition. I'm originally from around Erie, PA. You get your beater out for the winter when the snow flies to keep your good car from rusting up. In this sense the volvo is not a beater because I've taken great care of it - until the meltdown it ran and drove just like a new car. I does look like a beater up close though. The southern heat and sun does a real number on the paint and interior.

[98v70dad]

I was shocked by this because I was sure that was the problem.....
.... Me too!

Based on what you reported, I had assumed you did a complete visual inspection, figured it was a safe bet. Amazing what one piece of missing information can do but, we are only human, Errare humanum est, sed in errare perseverare diabolicum. I worked in Avionics for 20 years ... I know.

If it gets to the point you decide to to a engine swap. There is a 1998 V70 at LKQ in Fayetteville, GA. The air bags are deployed but I cannot see any major body damage in the pictures. Might be a good donor car.

LKQ has flat prices regardless of year, make and model, makes it a hell of a deal for Premium Cars cars like Volvo, BMW, Porsche ... ect.

LKQ Fayetteville, GA: Engine Package Fuel Injected, Price $275.82, Core $75.00, Warranty $0.00, Extended Warranty $82.75
https://www.lkqpickyourpart.com/locatio ... ville-229/

There is a block only option for $150, Knowing LKQ, block only may very well include the lower end and pistons. You would need to ask about their engine packages for clarification. There is some variation in local LKQ policies.

Yeah ... I know about attention to detail as well. I wrote the inspection instructions for a major air line and was also their only failure investigator for many years. I did a cursory look at the area that failed but did not do a detailed inspection. When I found nothing wrong with the oil pump I took a closer look at the only other place that could have supplied the chunks. This time I had the car well off the ground, cleaned the area thoroughly with carb cleaner and used a bright flashlight. The damage isn't obvious until you focus on it - then its hard to miss. I wish that I had spent more time looking before I ordered the parts because now I have a new oil pump I dont need and I wasted about 6 hours getting the old oil pump out.

Thanks for the junkyard find. Fayetteville is about an hour away but its close enough. If the engine is a non-turbo with low miles I might consider it. All of the engines I've found have too many miles on them to make it worth my while. I've always wondered how you pull an engine at a pick a part place. Do they pull it for you after you disconnect everything?

[abscate]

Return oil pump? Just out shipping.

Or hold it for new engine and sell old one here.

I think most PnP pull engine for you but you do need either 3 16 year old boys or 2 16 year old boys and one teen girl for muscle

[98v70dad]

Return oil pump? Just out shipping.

Or hold it for new engine and sell old one here.

I think most PnP pull engine for you but you do need either 3 16 year old boys or 2 16 year old boys and one teen girl for muscle

Bought it on eBay and it had been on sale forever. The guy was happy to get rid of it and he has a no return policy. Saving some money means taking some risk and this time I lose.

I've decided to sell the car - either to a junkyard or someone who may be interested in doing the engine swap. I've already had someone here ask about it. Although he's hundreds of miles away and I don't know if he was very serious. I am thoroughly sick of working on it and even though a new engine would probably get another 5 years out of it easily I'm done.

The car literally has new OE stuff all over it. It lacked nothing except that one part that failed internally and ruined all my previous efforts. I most regret the 4 nearly new continental Eco tires I put on it. They are the nicest tires (except Michelins) that I've ever bought. Unfortunately I'll never get my money for those since a car has to have wheels and tires. My neighborhood covenants don't allow non running cars in the driveway. A car without wheels/tires is a dead giveaway.

I may have some parts for sale in the for sale area as soon as I take an inventory of my parts bin. I saved everything that was still serviceable when I replaced it.

[cn90]

I hear you. My 1998 S70 GLT with 190K miles has mostly OEM parts or good stuff in it (FAG bearings, Nissens rad, OEM window actuator etc. etc.). As you know, I wrote quite a few DIYs in forum, a testament to the fact that this car, although superbly designed back in the 1990s, consumed a lot of my time. This is why I kept telling people to buy a "$5000 car" instead of a "$2000" car, unless people enjoy spending time UNDER the car fixing it rather than ABOVE the car in the cockpit driving around LOL.

I have a good set of tires and a separate set of winter tires.

- I am "somewhat luckier" than you are. I have a burned valve in #3 exhaust, I have decided that it is not worth my time/effort (I am busy with work, kids etc.) to rebuild the head, although I may change my mind later; simply b/c the car is 190K and does not have much value in it. It'd be a different ballgame if this is a 1950 Mercedes classic that needs to be stored to its former glory, or a Rolls Royce, or if the S70 has only 50K on the clock.

- My car is basically a grocery getter now, on the highway I cannot feel the vibration. The vibration is only noticeable at idle and red light. So it is what it is....I am driving this thing until the wheels fall off. Cannot complain b/c it has lived its life of 190K. Many cars don't even make it to 100K (hint: VW engine tensioner fiasco...).

- After all these years in forum, I have never seen a failed oil pump. An oil pump typically lasts some 400K-500K, basically the life of the car, unless abused. This is why you don't see too many of these sold on ebay etc. On the other hand, I think you can sell the new oil pump on ebay, someone rebuilding an engine may want it later.

- Still curious what your problem is, I suspect a broken #1 con rod assembly.

[cn90]

Below is a GENERIC PHOTO of a broken rod from a random car, my theory is that. When the rod is broken, sometimes it punches a hole in the engine block, sometimes, it is like this: not long enough to punch a hole in the block, but being short and next to the oil filter housing, it punched a hole in the oil filter housing.

Just a theory...

Rod.jpg (43.27 KiB) Viewed 3419 times

[erikv11]

I'm pretty sure the only person to suggest a broken connecting rod during the whole saga was wizechatmgr, way back on Dec 15 (viewtopic.php?f=1&t=83738&start=10; Viking horns to you it seems!!) He also suggested a very easy way to investigate that, by just cranking the engine by hand, to see if the piston travel is normal in #1, where the misfire was. Basically in lieu of a compression test. But we all got swept up in oil pump speculation. Good lesson to do all of the easy tests first, even when we are "sure" we know what is wrong.

[98v70dad]

I'm pretty sure the only person to suggest a broken connecting rod during the whole saga was wizechatmgr, way back on Dec 15 (viewtopic.php?f=1&t=83738&start=10; Viking horns to you it seems!!) He also suggested a very easy way to investigate that, by just cranking the engine by hand, to see if the piston travel is normal in #1, where the misfire was. Basically in lieu of a compression test. But we all got swept up in oil pump speculation. Good lesson to do all of the easy tests first, even when we are "sure" we know what is wrong.

True but you have to remember that people have a life other than working on their old volvo. I needed to get to chicago for a week at the in-laws and had a lot of other more important stuff to do. The car lives in the driveway and its dark by the time I get home from work these days. Commuting in Atlanta sucks. It took me three hours to get home on the Thursday before Christmas - 3 HOURS to go 37 miles.

I made my best call on what was wrong withe the car and it was wrong. I did not have any weekend time to do the suggested test and I sure as hell wasn't going to do it in the dark. My plan was to have the part on hand when I got back from Chicago. Unfortunately, my diagnosis was completely wrong and it didn't work out. I'm sure everyone here has ended up buying a part they didn't need because they called it wrong.

[FLXC90]

I'm pretty sure the only person to suggest a broken connecting rod during the whole saga was wizechatmgr, way back on Dec 15 (viewtopic.php?f=1&t=83738&start=10; Viking horns to you it seems!!) He also suggested a very easy way to investigate that, by just cranking the engine by hand, to see if the piston travel is normal in #1, where the misfire was. Basically in lieu of a compression test. But we all got swept up in oil pump speculation. Good lesson to do all of the easy tests first, even when we are "sure" we know what is wrong.

True but you have to remember that people have a life other than working on their old Volvo. I needed to get to chicago for a week at the in-laws and had a lot of other more important stuff to do. The car lives in the driveway and its dark by the time I get home from work these days. Commuting in Atlanta sucks. It took me three hours to get home on the Thursday before Christmas - 3 HOURS to go 37 miles.

I made my best call on what was wrong withe the car and it was wrong. I did not have any weekend time to do the suggested test and I sure as hell wasn't going to do it in the dark. My plan was to have the part on hand when I got back from Chicago. Unfortunately, my diagnosis was completely wrong and it didn't work out. I'm sure everyone here has ended up buying a part they didn't need because they called it wrong.

That could be another great thread-what is the most expensive part/simplest repair you guessed wrong about?!