Preparing to Replace Clutch & RMS

[WhatAmIDoing]

I've been doing my best to research as much as I can before taking on such a daunting task: pulling the transmission to replace the rear main seal, clutch, and throw out bearing. The oil loss through the RMS is becoming too much, and the clutch is starting to show signs of excessive wear. I've decided to go with the method of support the engine from above and then dropping the transmission (unless someone can convince me that pulling the engine and trans out the top is actually easier).

I've read the write up on here by taxi, and watched what videos Robert has on the subject. Also turned up this guide. Unfortunately, I have not found one guide that was comprehensive on the subject, but quite a few people who claimed to have done a clutch job. Would this be a good time to buy the Haynes manual?

Was wondering if anyone who has done this has any tips or tricks, or know of other guides that would be very helpful? Perhaps we could make this thread a comprehensive consolidation of tips to benefit others. I plan on thoroughly documenting the process to write a very detailed guide later.

Now for some questions: my vehicle is '98 S70 T5 w/ single mass flywheel (according to chassis #)
1) While the transmission and axles are out, is there anything else I should check or replace at this time?
2) Is there any rehab I should perform on the transmission? Should I change the gear oil or leave it alone?
3) Since I have seen conflicting information, is the slave cylinder internal or external? Can it only be replaced with the transmission pulled? If the slave showed no signs of leaking, I was not planning on replacing it.
4) Should I go with the R clutch (it doesn't cost much more on FCP)?
More questions will likely follow.

[JimBee]

While it would expand your scope of work, with the additional clearance you'll have under the oil pan it wouldn't be too hard to replace the o-rings in your oil uptake system. Seems like you're going to run this car for a while and since it's a hot rod version, you'll want things to hold up inside the engine when the inevitable urge to approach red line consumes you. Keeping the oiling system in top shape will help with that.

The other thing I recommend is flush your gear box with Amsoil. Drain what's in there and fill with Amsoil ATF, run for a few hundred miles, drain and refill with Amsoil ATF. Barring any leaks that should give you the best protection against gear and bearing wear for the duration.

The slave cylinders on the 850's (I have 2 5 speed manuals) seem very robust. But if you have the internal one, better change it while you're in there.

Long live the 98!

[tryingbe]

Now for some questions: my vehicle is '98 S70 T5 w/ single mass flywheel (according to chassis #)
1) While the transmission and axles are out, is there anything else I should check or replace at this time?

Unless you have a LSD to put in, no.

2) Is there any rehab I should perform on the transmission? Should I change the gear oil or leave it alone?

When you pull the axle out, you'll loose some gear oil.

3) Since I have seen conflicting information, is the slave cylinder internal or external? Can it only be replaced with the transmission

If you have a single mass flywheel, you'll most likely have an external slave cylinder. If you have a dual mass flywheel, you'll most likely have an internal slave cylinder.

4) Should I go with the R clutch (it doesn't cost much more on FCP)?

Yes to R clutch.

[WhatAmIDoing]

While it would expand your scope of work, with the additional clearance you'll have under the oil pan it wouldn't be too hard to replace the o-rings in your oil uptake system. Seems like you're going to run this car for a while and since it's a hot rod version, you'll want things to hold up inside the engine when the inevitable urge to approach red line consumes you. Keeping the oiling system in top shape will help with that.

I was thinking of dropping the oil pan as well to replace the o-rings. Does sound like a good time to do it.

Now for some questions: my vehicle is '98 S70 T5 w/ single mass flywheel (according to chassis #)
1) While the transmission and axles are out, is there anything else I should check or replace at this time?

Unless you have a LSD to put in, no.

Already have one installed.

I'm going to be doing another test soon to make sure everything still good. If not, than that will substantially change the plan of action.

[skloon]

I wouldn't worry about the Haynes manual mine just seems to absorb fluids while I am working on the beasts- you may want to replace the axle seals when you have the gearbox out they are cheap and will be really easy to access

[rspi]

I recommend pulling both out of the top unless you have a lift. When we did my manual swap, there was 3-1/2 of us trying to fit the transmission to the engine under the car with the subframe loose. Took about 1-1/2 hours just to get a few bolts started. I will never make that mistake again.

R clutch is not that much more.

[skloon]

Interesting about pulling both- I did that on mine and was able to install the whole thing by myself- a bit finicky crawling underneath then running out to the hoist but my helper didn't arrive till I was done for the day and starting the post repair beers

[Ozark Lee]

I've replaced the clutch by dropping the transmission out of the bottom and I've also swapped an engine by pulling the engine along with the transaxle out of the top. If you have an engine hoist and a stand it is six of one and half a dozen of the other in terms of time and grief. I did both by myself.

You can drop the transmission out of the bottom with no fancy tools. I built my own engine support out of a 4x4 and some chunks of Unistrut. Coming out of the top you obviously need a hydraulic hoist.

I pulled the flywheel and replaced the RMS and also had the flywheel surfaced while it was out. I also changed the axle seals since it would never get any easier. I have the external slave cylinder so I didn't change anything on it.

...Lee

[abscate]

I dropped a P2 for a clutch job last fall. I used an engine bar and dropped it to remove the transmission

Trick to line up...buy two long M10 bolts, offer up transmission to engine, walk it in, the threadthe two bolts into the engine.

Presto...you now have an alignment jig which you can slide the trans in. It’s close enough to get the trans drive pinion all the way into the motor, a little movement in the flywheel and the splines will mate.

Picture in this thread I think....

[abscate]

Where are located? Can I get the engine bar to you on East coast travel?