98 V70: Jammed Fuel Level Cover

[sleddriver]

I fired up the smoker today to check both the engine compartment and gas tank for any possible leaks. Both B&W check valves do restrict airflow in only a single direction. None in the first however, not sure of the later.

I can pressurize the tank enough to hear it expand by blocking the shut-off valve's vent, located on the tank fill hose. When I let go, it expells smoke with a WHOOOOSHHH. I removed all rear deck plates and access covers, with plans to pull the fuel level sender and encountered this:

Volvo_Fuel sender & pump access ports 002.JPG (379.15 KiB) Viewed 1140 times

Looks like my tank should be PUSHED towards the front. I can't remove the metal can to access the sender. Anyone else have this problem? How do I rectify this? Both FP and sender are original and now 20yrs old...and so are their tank seal gaskets. I thought replacing both gaskets might slay P0455 GROSS MONSTER.

The fuel pump access looks OK:

Volvo_Fuel sender & pump access ports 003.JPG (377.5 KiB) Viewed 1140 times

Update: I carefully backed out both rear tank strap bolts (12mm?) as I wasn't sure just how long they were. About 1/2", maybe 5/8". This did give me a bit more room. I'm now able to rotate the metal cover and tilt it. However, no joy in removing it.

I'm thinking about replacing both bolts (one at a time) with longer ones (1", maybe 1-1/2") so I can drop the tank further allowing me to remove the metal cover.

I also noticed it appears my tank should be moved down, then forward. With a flashlight, I can see the cut-outs in both tank & unibody where they can snug up close. I see a gap of maybe 1 to 2" instead.

[sleddriver]

Nobody has dealt with the before, eh? Really??

First mistake I've made is not backing up the rear onto some ramps. Second was following an 850 sedan guide to lowering the tank. Removing the two Torx screws behind the fuel filler door doesn't release the filler tube allowing the tank to drop. He said don't remove the front bolt where both tank straps are attached, however one photo clearly shows it backed nearly all the way out. That would have been good to know.....

I was able to drop the tank far enough to FINALLY pull the metal 'hat' off the level sender. There's a small victory. I then realized that the factory had arranged this cable to cause it to be pinched hard under the cap against the blonde screw-down collar. So I rearranged the harness to avoid this. Another small victory.

My nose is nudging me that the P0455 MONSTER lives up on top of the tank in that mess of tubes & wires and large dia. hole gaskets.

Volvo_Fuel sender & pump access ports 001.JPG (242.83 KiB) Viewed 1102 times

[scot850]

Wish I could help but never had the fuel tank out of a FWD. Like me you are finding out sometimes you are on your own to figure stuff out. I have read in the past of someone having a leak on the top of the tank. Maybe it was abscate, but can't recall as it was some time ago.

On the AWD there are several vent hoses attached to parts of the emission systems and they can become crumbly over time. If you have everything still attached pipe wise, maybe you want to try to smoke the system again with the tank lowered and see now with more visibility that maybe there is a leak up there that was not visible before? Keep at it and I wish you luck!

Neil.

[sleddriver]

Thanks Neil for sharing my burden! I'm down in the thick of thin things.

Previous research indicated that the 98+ replaced the squishy-pipes of 850 with hard plastic to eliminate EVAP leaks. I did check a few tanks several years ago and compare them. Problem is, something is still amiss re: P0455 GROSS. After all of these years, and work. It still eludes me. depressing.....

Another issue is not finding something to tightly block the shut-off valve normally-open vent. I spent nearly an hr just trying to find some hose that matches either OD or ID. No joy.

I'm still surprised M4.3 categorizes this as a GROSS leak.....if so, why isn't it obvious?

[sleddriver]

Turns out to remove the gas tank filler housing at the rear pass side quarter panel requires removal of the large dia. metal ring/hoop/circlip. May or may not also need to remove the two Torx screws as well. The 850 article didn't mention this. That would have been helpful!

[scot850]

Was the instructions written by Haynes manual by any chance? Like to remove the engine, undo a few bolts and it is then removed type of really helpful info, or this job requires a brain cell so take to your overpriced repair shop...!

Wish I could do more, but look at the one bright side. It is NOT and AWD, where to access most of the stuff requires prop-shaft disconnect and dropping the usually rusted in rear sub-frame and rear suspension which has the fuel tank attached to it. So be grateful for small mercies!

It would be nice to just easily be able to remove it all and test when visible. I know you have been at this for some time, but being a 98 is the charcoal filter still in the front left fender just forward of the LHF wheel? Did you replace all the pipes in there attached to the charcoal canister (I think you did) and the vent valve is that also in the LH front fender or is it above the fuel tank like on the AWD?

One last thing on Haynes manual, when I buy an old vehicle I usually invest in a Haynes manual and a Chiltons if they both do on for that model. After a lot of trauma with Amazon losing/trashing the books, I have now got them both for my latest project a 2003 Gen 4 Toyota 4Runner V8 Ltd. When I compared the instructions for one job, I realised they were almost identical! I am talking to using the same pictures, words, sections and everything! Turns out they are now both owned by the same publisher and the lazy beggers have basically take 2 formally ok products and are selling them with different covers!! Be warned! Naturally one is being returned!! Now just have to find the $400+ for a used set of factory manuals!

Neil.

[sleddriver]

Hi Neil. No...I found my old W98 LT with VADIS installed on it. Fired it up and read up on fuel tank removal. That big ring needs to be removed. It didn't mention anything about needing to remove the two Torx screws behind the fuel door. I need to hook the LT up to the printer and get that info in paper form.

I thank everyday I don't own AWD! Trust me......

My char-can is in the rear, next to the fuel filter, on the pass. side. I cut off the end of the small rigid line with the difficult-to-release fitting and made an elbow from silicone tubing. The o-rings in that connector squeeked badly when ever moved. I still have the original J-hose. I pulled it out + char can about 5yrs ago and thoroughly inspected them & pressure tested both. No leaks. The L-hose? I think goes to the tank or does it go to the shut-off valve? Can't remember. So the answer is No. I thought I'd have to at least lower the tank to get to the other end of that hose. Having partially done it a few days ago, I now realize it's no big deal...especially with only 2-3 gallons of gas in it.

Both PURGE (vent) & SHUT-OFF valves are new as of 2012 I think. Maybe 2015 for one. The former is in the rear next to the char-can, above the fuel filter.

Local library has Haynes avail for no charge on-line. I used it once. May now have access to ALLDATA. They pay for several subscription data services and sometimes add one at request.

Thanks for the support! Ride the luge for me! That was so much fun up there!

[scot850]

Glad you are making progress and it is always good to have a sounding board even if they can't help! Glad you found Vadis and it is generally helpful, but like Haynes and the likes, it sometimes misses out the odd part as it can be generic although it misses parts for some variants.

I find the 2 pipes from the charcoal canister are normally the biggest culprits of issues with large emissions issues. or the pipe from the valve to the fuel tank breather.

You'll get it soon!

Good Luck.

Neil.

[sleddriver]

800AF. Yes, I am. I have removed and thoroughly inspected the j-hose previously as noted above. No leaks. I wish it had been!