1999 V70 Codes, Dash Lights, and Oil Smell

AaronsVolvo · Post by **AaronsVolvo** » 01 Mar 2018, 18:31

Haha the only free part of this is taking the car from the previous owner.

I am picking the car up tomorrow, the ABS module from Matt should be here Saturday. Saturday morning I am taking the car to a mechanic friend of mine to get the underside and internals of the car checked out.

I suspect if the ABS module does not clear most of the dash lights(not counting the coolant, washer fluid, and trunk light) then it may need an ignition switch. That does not look like a big deal.

Post by **abscate** » 01 Mar 2018, 23:23

Ignition switch , 15 minute job for the electrical part.

Both LEE and I did a tear down and root failure analysis on these , too

1999s are special because we know how to party...

Post by **FLXC90** » 02 Mar 2018, 11:16

+1 for the above, Heater core, exhaust for leaks, ABS module. The hatch light is most likely broken wires at the LH tailgate hinge, documented on the forum and in RSPis videos. Oil smell is leaks underhood, and check for the existence and condition of your Cabin Air filter element.

If you are lucky, the P0600 may be poor contact at the ECU connector, but RHP knows his stuff, so it's just a maybe.

Sounds like a good start for a "project car" as long as that is how you initially view it. Should make a good DD pretty quickly too!

AaronsVolvo · Post by **AaronsVolvo** » 02 Mar 2018, 18:37

Okay so I picked the car up this morning, I have probably put about 50 miles on it today driving around town. Good news-no oil smell, bad news-lots of antifreeze smell.
So I suspected that I was mistaken the first time about the oil. I did put a rubber glove on the oil filler, it mildly inflated. Not significantly but it certainly wasn't being sucked down.

I tampered around with the windshield wiper bottle, something must have been loose. The light for that is no longer on and the wiper fluid sprays onto the windshield now. No leaks here.

While driving around the speedo and odo went dead a few times, the ABS and Brake light came on.
This evening I replaced the ABS module with the rebuilt from Matt. I cleared the codes, restarted the car, then read the codes again-no change.
I drove around a bit, probably 10 miles before coming back home, parked it, shut it off, turned it back on, read the codes again-no change.
I haven't driven it enough for the odo/speedo to possibly go dead, but the ABS/Brake lights haven't come on.

Current codes-
P0113-Intake air Temperature circuit
P0103-Mass or Volume air flow sensor circuit high
P0420-Catalyst system below threshold
P0600-Seriel communication link
P1057-fault code not in database
P0722-Output shaft speed sensor no signal

The Trunk light, service, coolant and CEL stay on currently.
The coolant level is fine. I checked it a few times throughout the day and it didn't increase or decrease.

I checked around the carpets all over up front, nothing was wet.

Another question, should the gear shift have a light to indicate which gear it is in? Or just the orange tab that is only visible in daylight?
I am a little concerned that the ABS module did not change the speed sensor code, would it be appropriate to guess that the speed sensor is actually bad?
The only times the speedo/odo quit the ABS/Brake lights came on also.

AaronsVolvo · Post by **AaronsVolvo** » 02 Mar 2018, 18:41

Oh also, when i first started the car after picking it up I jiggled the key in the ignition-no change in lights. I have done this several times today, I jiggled it rough and I have tried gentle, none of the lights changed. So I am guessing it is not the ignition switch after all

Post by **scot850** » 02 Mar 2018, 23:16

Trunk light is either a broken wire in the LH tailgate hinge area, or bad micro-switch in the latch mechanism.

Coolant could be a bad or disconnected coolant level sensor. The float can stick and the connector for the sensor is just below it and the wires can easily be damaged if someone is rough or careless removing the coolant tank.

Lift the drivers side carpet. The carpet is rubber backed and can prevent the coolant from a leak in the heater core to sit under there. Also check if the bottom of the inside of the windshield is greasy. If it is the heater core or the 'O' rings at the connection to is are leaking.

Check the carpet in the rear drivers side carpet for damp. You can peel back the drivers carpet carefully and see if there are any coolant telltale runs to the right of the gas pedal.

Neil.

Post by **wizechatmgr** » 03 Mar 2018, 03:10

Did Matt say there were any stored codes in the old ABS module? Or was that particular module determined to be a lost cause?

Post by **wizechatmgr** » 03 Mar 2018, 04:05

When the car loses the speedo and you get the christmas tree effect in the instrument cluster - does the car lose power as well?

If so, there is a wire that comes off the positive terminal... If the battery tray doesn't have the black thingy majig that retains the battery and keeps it from moving, this wire can end up loose. It will drive you nuts.

Georgeandkira · Post by **Georgeandkira** » 03 Mar 2018, 06:55

It's been a week since you've first posted. Did you take the car?

Many of the issues you listed have been touched upon. You either took the car (have room for it?) or were scared off.
There's a wee switch in the liftgate latch which can break and leaves the warning light on.

FYI: The '99 has a 4 speed tannie and uses common Dex/Merc which is the cheapest fluid on the shelf.
Better still is the fact that the upper cooling line pumps out so extending it with a length of hose to reach a catch jug is easy.
My '99 was the first pump out I ever did.

AaronsVolvo · Post by **AaronsVolvo** » 03 Mar 2018, 08:03

Yes I bought the car for $0 yesterday and its sitting in my driveway now.

The old module has not been sent back to Matt yet, the new one only came yesterday evening.

I have not seen the car go from having power to loosing power. When the speedo and everything would die nothing would change with the speed or tach, I couldn't tell any driving difference and if I hadn't watched the gauges go dead I wouldn't have known anything was wrong.

On power though...last night I was driving the car down a main road(55mph zone) and I was going up a hill, accelerator to the floor I got the car to 50MPH-is this normal?
It was not straining, the tach was reading 2,000, the car felt like it was still just cruising. Is this normal for this car? Or could this be a sign that the speed sensor is actually bad.

What should I be working on to fix the P0113, P0600, and P0420 codes?

1999 V70 Codes, Dash Lights, and Oil Smell

Re: 1999 V70 Codes, Dash Lights, and Oil Smell