2008 S60 2.5T 177k
So I've been thinking for a while now that the creaks and groans I hear when driving over bumps at slow speeds have been due to my factory-fused stabilizer bar bushings. I took it to a Volvo specialist who pointed out that my front strut mounts are in need of replacement. You can twist the top nut and they don't spring/rotate back. There is clearly some separation and excessive movement at the strut mounts. I'm thinking these strut mounts are more of the issue than the stabilizer bar.
He quoted me $950+tax to replace both front struts (and mounts). Seem high? Could I just have the strut mounts replaced and not the full struts? From what I can tell, this is not an easy DIY job...
strut mount replacement
- Rattnalle
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It's quite easy but time consuming to DIY. You have to compress the springs which takes some time and effort without the right equipment.
You can easily do just the mounts. But before you start doing the work check for leaks in the struts and so on so you don't replace one part at a time and end up having to do everything anyway but one piece at a time.
You should do a wheel alignment after taking the struts off the car.
You can easily do just the mounts. But before you start doing the work check for leaks in the struts and so on so you don't replace one part at a time and end up having to do everything anyway but one piece at a time.
You should do a wheel alignment after taking the struts off the car.
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hu5ker555
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The shop is quoting me $450 for the strut mounts only. I don't have spring compressors and honestly...tearing apart the suspension components + alignment is beyond me.
I think I'll shop around for lower pricing, but will probably just have the strut mounts done.
I think I'll shop around for lower pricing, but will probably just have the strut mounts done.
- oragex
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$1000 it is very expensive unless he uses parts directly from Volvo. What's really important is to make sure a garage doesn't use low quality parts. Simply put, everything must be either Sachs or Lemforder.
You can have all parts and then more, from Internet:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... fsk5-sachs
In the kit above, CRP is the same as REIN, which is actually furnishing the part for Volvo (in the past it was Sachs who was furnishing it).
It's a 1h job/side at most, add 30 minutes if you also replace the ball joints.
DON'T buy these, they have FEBI parts which are bad
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/11692/1 ... 60-s80-v70
I don't recommend these either
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/12196/1 ... bly-p2-s60
You can have all parts and then more, from Internet:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... fsk5-sachs
In the kit above, CRP is the same as REIN, which is actually furnishing the part for Volvo (in the past it was Sachs who was furnishing it).
It's a 1h job/side at most, add 30 minutes if you also replace the ball joints.
DON'T buy these, they have FEBI parts which are bad
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/11692/1 ... 60-s80-v70
I don't recommend these either
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/12196/1 ... bly-p2-s60
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
- Rattnalle
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You'd be very quick to do it in one hour if you take the struts apart. Replacing them as a unit, sure.
I think I've spent about 1,5-2 h per side when replacing shocks and springs.
I think I've spent about 1,5-2 h per side when replacing shocks and springs.
- erikv11
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My two cents ( 5 cents?)
(1) Way back in the original post, the spinning top nut indicates a bad spring seat, *not* a bad strut mount. This is a big difference, a quality spring seat is a $25 part (oragex comments about Sachs and CRP brands does apply to spring seats), strut mounts is at least twice as much. People on the forum calling them strut mounts by mistake is not a big deal, but a shop getting it wrong is a red flag IMHO, including for installation reasons cited below. Obviously getting it wrong when ordering parts is the real screw-up, can't have that.
(2) In fact the strut mount can be replaced without disassembling the strut tower, it is a super easy job truly 40 minutes per side by someone with a little experience. But the strut mount is not the diagnosed problem here, it's the spring seat. So OP when you shop around ask about rates for spring seats, not strut mounts. It's true the strut mount could also be bad when you get in there, but they are not anywhere near as problematic as the spring seats.
(3) The book rate for jobs that require strut tower disassembly (strut mounts, new struts, etc) will be at least 2 hours per side, and for a newcomer like OP it will probably take 3 hours/side. Or 3.5 the first side, 2.5 the second.
(4) $450 for spring seats would be high but I could see the quote coming in at that rate, if charging 2.5 hours per side for labor plus overcharging for the part. It's expensive to run a shop ... Quality parts are so important here, as oragex said.
(5) You don't need a wheel alignment after replacing struts, but it is not a bad idea to check it and get the front end all squared away. Ask your shops if the quote includes alignment, it probably doesn't.
(1) Way back in the original post, the spinning top nut indicates a bad spring seat, *not* a bad strut mount. This is a big difference, a quality spring seat is a $25 part (oragex comments about Sachs and CRP brands does apply to spring seats), strut mounts is at least twice as much. People on the forum calling them strut mounts by mistake is not a big deal, but a shop getting it wrong is a red flag IMHO, including for installation reasons cited below. Obviously getting it wrong when ordering parts is the real screw-up, can't have that.
(2) In fact the strut mount can be replaced without disassembling the strut tower, it is a super easy job truly 40 minutes per side by someone with a little experience. But the strut mount is not the diagnosed problem here, it's the spring seat. So OP when you shop around ask about rates for spring seats, not strut mounts. It's true the strut mount could also be bad when you get in there, but they are not anywhere near as problematic as the spring seats.
(3) The book rate for jobs that require strut tower disassembly (strut mounts, new struts, etc) will be at least 2 hours per side, and for a newcomer like OP it will probably take 3 hours/side. Or 3.5 the first side, 2.5 the second.
(4) $450 for spring seats would be high but I could see the quote coming in at that rate, if charging 2.5 hours per side for labor plus overcharging for the part. It's expensive to run a shop ... Quality parts are so important here, as oragex said.
(5) You don't need a wheel alignment after replacing struts, but it is not a bad idea to check it and get the front end all squared away. Ask your shops if the quote includes alignment, it probably doesn't.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
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hu5ker555
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Thanks. I'll be sure that the shop checks/replaces the strut mounts and/or spring seats as needed. This shop specializes in Volvos so I feel like they'll do the right thing but never hurts to make sure. So $450+tax seems like a decent price to me. I checked with my local Firestone repair shop and they quoted me $650+tax for the same thing. I'll stick with the Volvo specialist.
- Rattnalle
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Erik: I said you should get an alignment but sure you can get away without it.
You will need to mark the lower bolts of the strut since the upper hole where they connect above the hub isn't round and allows adjustment of camber.
You will need to mark the lower bolts of the strut since the upper hole where they connect above the hub isn't round and allows adjustment of camber.
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