98 S70 non turbo loss of power

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 30 Mar 2018, 01:08

Hum ... never knew the junkyard was a place to pickup Middle Aged Females.

Post by **wizechatmgr** » 30 Mar 2018, 17:46

RickHaleParker wrote: 30 Mar 2018, 01:08 Hum ... never knew the junkyard was a place to pickup Middle Aged Females.

At reasonable prices none the less =p

Post by **sleddriver** » 30 Mar 2018, 18:25

45DegreesPDX wrote: 25 Feb 2018, 17:34 Hello, I have a 1998 S70 non-turbo that is having some issues. Car was running fine until one day the engine completely lost power. This wasn't electrical as all of my electronics still worked, it was just directly the engine. I was able to start it back up and limp home, with it dying on me a couple more times. It now has a rough idle, and gas smell. After idling for a while it'll lose power too. Codes thrown are a misfire in all 5 cylinders and a issue with the catalytic converter. Would a clogged cat be the issue?

1. Those plugs looked really bad. Surprised they were Volvo with that design. Bosch coppers are cheap and work very well.
2. Check for vacuum leaks right at the intake: split hoses, gummy rubber, rock-hard rubber no longer sealing. Check the vacuum tree for leaks on the tree, poor seal with the manifold.
3. Buy two bottles of Redline Si-1 or Gumout Regane High Mileage formula. Dump in near empty tank and fill up. Repeat.
4. If the plugs looked that bad, I wonder what the butterfly valve (throttle body) looks like? Use throttle-body cleaner + a brass brush to scrub the throat, edges of the 'disk' and the face itself. Also check on the tiny holes around the TB.
5. Clean & flush out the idle speed vave. Make sure it moves freely. Check the hoses for cracks, splits, etc.
6. N.A.'s have a 'flame trap' I've been told. Pull it out and have a look. Many just toss it.
7. With the engine running, block the exhaust pipe with the palm of your hand and listen. If it's hot, use a towel.
8. How does the engine air filter look? When replacing, write the install date on it with a sharpie so you'll know next time how long it's been in there.

AaronsVolvo · Post by **AaronsVolvo** » 30 Mar 2018, 23:31

The puttering sound sounds just like my V70 right after I changed the fuel filter and there was still air in the line. Not sure if that is of any worth, just a familiar sound to me. Could the injectors be in question?

If it is the MAF, then it could be a fairly easy quick fix!

zeke1256 · Post by **zeke1256** » 31 Mar 2018, 18:23

this seems like the upper O 2 sensor, or both of them

Post by **rguzz** » 01 Apr 2018, 08:00

"Would also be a good idea to check for vacuum leaks and unmetered air infiltration."
Seems to be the lesson of the week, based on recent posts. As always, compression testing early in the diagnostic algorithm excludes the catastrophic, though nothing specifically suggests that's your culprit. All kinds of hints on spark plug inspection as well.

45DegreesPDX · Post by **45DegreesPDX** » 21 Apr 2018, 15:55

Hey guys, I'm gonna run a compression test but all the examples I've seen on youtube are with a warm engine? It's almost impossible to get my engine warm because it'll stall and die after not long. (See previous videos in the thread.) Can I still do one with a cold engine?

WhatAmIDoing · Post by **WhatAmIDoing** » 26 Apr 2018, 09:15

45DegreesPDX wrote: 21 Apr 2018, 15:55 Hey guys, I'm gonna run a compression test but all the examples I've seen on youtube are with a warm engine? It's almost impossible to get my engine warm because it'll stall and die after not long. (See previous videos in the thread.) Can I still do one with a cold engine?

You should do one cold and hot. You are looking for obvious low/no compression, so doing it cold instead of warm won't change this much, but your numbers overall will be lower than if the engine was warm.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 26 Apr 2018, 09:25

A cold compression test can still tell a lot. Go ahead and do a cold compression test, dry and wet, then post the numbers.

villagepc · Post by **villagepc** » 26 Apr 2018, 10:31

Also - check your timing. Really check it. Make sure its not a tooth off on either cam...
My car acted this same way when the belt slipped a tooth on the intake cam. I'm assuming the computer tries to compensate for the wonky timing by adjusting fuel / etc - so you'll get brief moments of sanity, followed by sputtering and stink.
I monkied with everything - just as you are - plugs / wires / cap / rotor / fuel filter / fuel pump... then I checked the timing. Crazy.
I had a inkling that was the case due to the engine not pulling the same vacuum at idle - but the previous owner claimed "oh, that's a gates kevlar whoopty doo super belt, it would never slip"... yeah.