Fast ticking sound: Do I need to do valve adjustment?

Post by **lext** » 04 Apr 2018, 17:31

My car is makingn a metallic, fast-paced ticking noise similar to the one in this video:

From asking generic (non-Volvo) advice elsewhere, I was told normally you'll need to do a valve adjustment. However when I google valve adjustment, they say that you don't need to do it if you already have newer engine with "self-adjusting, oil-pressure-driven hydraulic lifters". I search a bit more and it looks like mine (1994 850) is the kind with hydraulic lifters. (Right? I'm not sure myself, just guessing from what's in this video: So is there still something to adjust, or nothing at all to eliminate that noise?

If there's something I can do, then what will it be? Do you have some instructions? What parts should I look for? I saw some rough mention here, (for example: viewtopic.php?f=11&t=47769), but nothing specific about the steps or parts. Do I need a gasket? Is there a valve cover gasket? What precaution should I take when taking off the valve cover? (I assume I need to keep the two camshaft position unchanged, but can I just leave the timing belt on? Leaving it on will help if I need to move the camshaft to measure some clearance, I assume.) Lack of picture also makes it hard to visualize.

If I don't need to do anything, then will it have any long term effect on the lift of the engine? Mine is around 220K miles right now.

Post by **Clemens** » 04 Apr 2018, 20:12

They use hydraulic lifters in 850ies. No need to adjust them. If your oil is dirty, you might get away with an oil change. Also, try to rev the engine beyond 4000 Rpm in gear, this usually helps to free stuck lifters in my 94

Post by **FLXC90** » 04 Apr 2018, 22:01

First ensure your oil level is adequate. Try listening through a mechanics stethoscope or some tubing to determine if it is localized to certain lifters, or all of them. If it is all of them, you may need to replace the O-rings for the passages from the oil pan. If they fail, oil doesn't feed properly to the top end of the motor. Eventually, this will kill the motor.

+1 to the oil change, also try seafoam or other cleaners in the oil one time.

Post by **erikv11** » 04 Apr 2018, 22:32

No valve adjustments, no lifter adjustments. As mentioned, it is extremely common for the o-rings inside the oil pan to be compromised by this stage (200k and 20 years) in these cars, and that's likely the problem here.

You can wait until the low oil light starts to flicker at startup, or if you intend to keep the car a long time and can handle a masochistic weekend then go ahead and drop the oil pan to do the job. Or just let it go and drive it into the ground. The suggestions about oil and Seafoam may help.

callahanoffroad · Post by **callahanoffroad** » 07 Apr 2018, 21:24

I'll ask the follow up question, if it's localized to a few valves only, then what is the solution?

Post by **erikv11** » 07 Apr 2018, 22:02

You could try a Seafoam treatment followed by changing the oil. If truly localized to a vale or two then maybe a lifter or two has a plugged oil port and is not pumping up properly. Do you see sludge under the oil cap?

Similarly, does this car get out on the highway very often, or is it a townie car?

Post by **lext** » 08 Apr 2018, 00:00

Clemens wrote: ↑04 Apr 2018, 20:12 They use hydraulic lifters in 850ies. No need to adjust them. If your oil is dirty, you might get away with an oil change. Also, try to rev the engine beyond 4000 Rpm in gear, this usually helps to free stuck lifters in my 94

Thanks guys. I'm glad there's no adjustment to do, although it sounds like an oil pan drop is in order. I looked up the instructions and it sounds doable, although long period lying under the car may not be much fun

Clemens: I'm curious about your suggestion. How can you rev to 4000 rpm while in gear? Wouldn't that push your speed to way, way above the speed limit, or even the sane roadway limit? it's not like we have a desert nearby to drive freely at any speed we want to

Unless you're talking about one of those setup like at the smog check where the wheels just turn the roller but the car stand still.

Post by **abscate** » 08 Apr 2018, 05:53

You can push it to 60in third gear in a standard or select a lower gear and lower speed in a slush box.

Post by **June** » 08 Apr 2018, 06:34

lext wrote: ↑08 Apr 2018, 00:00
Clemens wrote: ↑04 Apr 2018, 20:12 They use hydraulic lifters in 850ies. No need to adjust them. If your oil is dirty, you might get away with an oil change. Also, try to rev the engine beyond 4000 Rpm in gear, this usually helps to free stuck lifters in my 94
Thanks guys. I'm glad there's no adjustment to do, although it sounds like an oil pan drop is in order. I looked up the instructions and it sounds doable, although long period lying under the car may not be much fun

Clemens: I'm curious about your suggestion. How can you rev to 4000 rpm while in gear? Wouldn't that push your speed to way, way above the speed limit, or even the sane roadway limit? it's not like we have a desert nearby to drive freely at any speed we want to Unless you're talking about one of those setup like at the smog check where the wheels just turn the roller but the car stand still.

I think Clemens is referring to sticking valves. My 98 V70 had the problem and the dealer told me to run the car in 2nd gear on the interstate holding 5000 rpm for 5 minutes with the ac off. The problem always went away for a half a year or so. Symptoms were always hard to start in the morning and rough idle. Of course the car was only a couple years old back then and under factory warranty still. I don't think I would do it to a neglected engine. June

Post by **oragex** » 08 Apr 2018, 07:14

That sounds to me like the perfect example of a lifter ticking. If that's true, then by the loudness of the noise I'd say it's perhaps too late to do anything. It may still run like this but perhaps the valve is already damaged. I had a lifter like this, it got a little more loud then it finally burnt the valve while driving uphill. A new engine head was needed. Not sure if Seafoam will help as it needs to get into the lifter. Perhaps pour like 2 cans into the oil and run the engine for a few seconds every day for 1-2 weeks see if it helps then change the oil - the car should not be driven with such amount of Seafoam. But you may get other issues from this much Seafoam that may dislodge too much gunk from inside the engine.

A compression test may give an idea about the actual damage to the valve