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Code P0026 & P0027 after water pump change.

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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WM300
Posts: 1
Joined: 15 August 2015
Year and Model: '06 XC70, '64 544
Location: nj, usa

Code P0026 & P0027 after water pump change.

Post by WM300 »

Hi All,
Need help.
Changed water pump on '06 XC70 without removing the timing or serpentine belts. (Belts new 10k ago.) Marked all three timing pulleys with whiteout, loosened eccentric Tension-er, slipped belt off WP and tied the slack side up towards the front with cord to keep the teeth engaged in original position relative to one another. Installed WP. Untied timing belt and pushed down, over tension-er, with a large box wrench just to be able to line up the teeth on the belt to engage the WP pulley. There wasn't a lot of slack which was a good thing. Adjusted Tension-er. Torqued it. Then hand cranked engine at least two turns to the right (as suggested). Everything looked good. Put everything else back in place and started engine. Sounded fine. Backed out of garage and shut off.
This morning the 'check engine' light came on. Check faults: two Engine codes : Code P0026 & P0027.
Engine's running smooth. No issues like I've read about.
:?:
1st Question: if I clear the codes. Will codes (hopefully) come back on IF there really is a timing or solenoid or something wrong

2nd Question: After checking Timing again, what's next ?
Thanks

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oragex
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Post by oragex »

That is a risky approach. Saying this after replacing the tensioner myself without removing the timing belt. The belt 'felt' down on the crank pulley and it was almost impossible to place the teeth back in place.

I'm assuming all three marks are aligned ?

Another thing is, these tensioners don't like to be reused. Was the tension set turning in the correct direction ? Does the temp needle stay in the middle with the engine cold, without shaking? Does the belt run true in the middle of the cam gears ?

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Post by abscate »

Because you have at least one variable hub cam on your 2006 the timing relationship between crank and cam can change even if the belt does not move on the teeth. That’s what happened.

Good news is no damage, the cam range is too small To allow piston valve contact

You need to retime the belt and cams using the correct procedure for you car and timing setup.

Which cam has the big soup bowl CVVT hub...exhaust, intake or both?
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