2004 s60r misfire dead cylinder

Post by **abscate** » 13 Mar 2018, 05:13

150 250 what's 100 points between friends

Man, sometimes I wonder where my brain is...

Post by **jonesg** » 13 Mar 2018, 10:00

swedehast wrote: ↑12 Mar 2018, 16:18 Thanks Erik and Abscate

Update and some questions.
I spent the weekend pulling everything but the head, so all the ancillaries are bagged and tagged.
Along the way it seemed that what I was running into indicates this things probably been apart before.
Ex only 2 exhaust manifold nuts ,,,,,, hmmmm

But the crux of the things are ( wait for the cam lock tool coming from IPD ), yes multiple things

I've gotten most everything out of the way, exhaust manifold bolts off,

1) Does the turbo just need a gentle pry to move it away from the head when I lift ?

I pulled off the " front " ? plastic shroud around the timing gears in order to recheck/ confirm gear wheel marks line up AND reference the crankshaft marks and ????? On my 95 Twgn and 96 850 R the timing gears had a plastic plate ( on the cam cover side ) " behind " the cam timing gears with notches cut where the timing gear marks pointed at, nice and simple. This engine doesn't have that, only the cover / shroud ( "outside " ) the timing gears/ belt / idler / etc. There aren't any " conspicuous " marks that I can see. At some point someone kind of smeared some " sharpie " black on the cam cover ( behind )but even they weren't very tidy or consistent, so

2 ) Am I supposed to be seeing some timing marks on the shroud from " behind " ( looking from the cam position sensor ) ?

In THAT regard in just setting things up " the old fashion way " I rotated the crank clockwise until the #1 cyl TDC firing ( easy to confirm ( also ) because at that point you can see and feel the valves working. So here the piston tdc, each reference mark on the timing gear wheels were pretty vertical. Actually the IN gearwheel mark was vertical reference the " block ", the EX gearwheel was not quite. At the rear of the cams the cut slots in the IN cam found the two continuous slots EXACTLY horizontal and in perfect alignment with the split in the cases, the third slot at or near 45 degrees above the horizontal, just like the tutorials Ive scanned. The EX slots found the horizontal cuts not aligned ( quite ) with the split of the cases but in fact slightly 5 - 10 degrees below the horizontal and the third slot near 90 degrees down from horizontal.

I'm not sure the " cam locking tool " would fit into the horizontal slots if exactly 180 degrees is required across both cams ?

Lastly in viewing down the to the crankshaft ref marks, it seemed I could see on the crank hub gear only one of the teeth with a tiny cut mark at the back of the tooth, but not sure what it was supposed to be pointing at. In tutorials it shows TWO teeth with little cut marks in the rear and they straddle a mark

So it appears the only way to actually " align " the EX marks and cam slots is removing the belt and turning the cam, then locking things up ???? but will this mess up the cam timing later ( upon reassembly of the CVVT hubs ?? ) It seems to me, after watching a few tutorials etc one of the main reasons to lock the cams up is simply so you can get the darn hub bolts off. Other than that, aren't the slots in the cams and #1 TDC firing still the main way to keep things in time ? In other words, I don't see how the " spring loaded " CVVT hubs change the method of basic timing..

Anyway I'm ordering parts and tools and can't go any further till I get pretty sure I can yard the head off and send it to Clearwater, or ?????

Thanks again guys, I really appreciate it

If you mark the rear of cam sprockets to the
Cam sensor side of the head you'll have a much much easier time on assembly.
If you use marker pen or paint you lose the marks when the head is cleaned. I'd use a small punch.
Here's a video that makes it easier to grasp the idea.
The written directions by f250 are very detailed and especially useful if you lose the timing marks if you do not punch them.
In the video notice he uses a spanner to secure the cam lock bolts, not a big 3/8 ratchet. He also holds the spanner close to the bolt, his hand position indicates he's hardly applying great force, less chance of breaking those long bolts inside the cam.

swedehast · Post by **swedehast** » 27 Mar 2018, 23:57

Finally ,,,,,,,,,,
Weather has been atrocious here in northern california, Car is outside I have no shop unfortunately.
Was finally able to get the head off last sunday, final glitch was exhaust manifold stud, had a bit of politicing to get exhaust manifold/turbo to move back far enough to lift the head up.
Nice chunk out of one of exhaust valves cyl 3. Haven't had a REAL good look at pistons but first look doesn't see any piston damage. Actually closer look at seat where chunk missing doesn't show any damage either.
Now that tiny little rattle I was hearing I'm thinking could be the piece of valve rattling around in the exhaust pipe or CC, guess I need to also check the turbo ?

Cylinders still show cross hatch ( factory ? ) 180,000 mi, no real ridge at top of piston travel, impressive

Clearwater in Florida did NOT have an " in house " swap for THIS head, but one of the techs did confirm they have done those, difference is the ENTIRE head ( incl cams ) has to go in.

Most of the hoses to PCV pretty boogered, but so easy to get at now.

Post by **abscate** » 28 Mar 2018, 03:45

Since the nasty part of the turboremoval I still done it probably does make sense to remove and vacuum out valve pieces. They are also cool to look at, but almost never need rework

Think about replacing your CBV diaphragm while it’s out, that’s job is Hades while on the car

Post by **erikv11** » 28 Mar 2018, 17:45

People seem to have good experiences with Clearwater but I don't know where they source the valve stem seals. If there is a trustworthy shop near you in NorCal, I would take it there and provide them with valve stem seals you bought from Volvo. The aftermarket ones don't last. Almost any machine shop can rework the head, it's not difficult or special. Or ask Clearwater where they get the stem seals.

If the valve burned (likely) then there wouldn't be any metal pieces but by all means look around.

swedehast · Post by **swedehast** » 30 Mar 2018, 00:01

Thanks Erik and Abscate

I don't have any loyalties to Clearwater, but it has been so long since I did a head ( or complete rebuild for that matter ) I no longer know any of my local machinists. The last time I did have a machinist do a head rebuild, he botched it,,,,, I mean how can anyone screw up a small block chevy head ?????'78 350

Prior to that I did all my own so I could be a little crazy and get all the angles I wanted and flow the head etc. But that was at a friends shop and he has since moved ( he builds formula atlantic cars now )
The other thing is the reality is this the " third car " and won't be seeing the kind of mileage a lot of my past cars have seen, so since it will be pretty fresh, I should get some good years out of it.
Anyway the most " good reviews " I've seen have been Clearwater and since the cost is a push and I don't need the car every day the round trip isn't a big deal.
As soon as I can figure out how to get the photos off my phone into my computer I will start to post a progress report

Thanks again guys for the advice and assistance

swedehast · Post by **swedehast** » 02 May 2018, 13:05

Hi Erik and Abscate !
Between work and weather, it's been a haul. Also just keep pulling things out. Dropped out strut because it was bad and also in the way getting at the harmonic damper MUCH easier with strut out of the way. To that end I also drilled out the rivets holding the inner fender liner. Everything coming out is clean and sano and / or replaced, last but not least I am looking at a new diaphragm for the CBT ? CVT ? whatever. Is that the lower side of the compressor side of the turbo housing ? Those Allen nuts are a pain, as is trying to do it in place without taking the turbo out, but the exhaust pipe / turbo nuts are not being " easily " persuaded off. I've completely cleaned everything I can get at so generally looking pretty new inside engine bay. Piston tops were cleaned with green scotch brite pieces and lots of rubbing with diesel. Engine has been turned over countless times to get any / all carbon debris out of cylinder walls.

I found a local machinist who did a great job setting up the head, all new ex valves and all new seats. Also new ( expensive ) head bolts. The machinist ordered a head gasket kit ( FelPro ) which I used to get for my " small blocks ", ,,,,,,, but other than the o rings and such, the head gasket is composite with metal rings for the sleeves. The OEM gasket was three piece sandwich of metal plates and composite. I believe I should go with OEM.

So some reassembly questions. 1 ) I was always taught heads go on original dry gaskets, but I've seen a video where the head ( volvo ) going on with anaerobic sealer...... Suggestions ?
2 ) I've always lightly oiled or anti-seized the threads on head bolts, preferences ?

I really appreciate the advice

Post by **erikv11** » 03 May 2018, 20:27

Yes, the CBV (Compressor Bypass Valve) diaphragm is under the three hex screws on the turbo. Abscate was saying that if you pull the turbo, definitely do the CBV diaphragm. However if you don't pull it, and accessing the CBV is still a pain for the current job, and your turbo is under 200k, then I would leave it alone. I wouldn't pull it for the CBV if there are no symptoms (boost flutter, or difficult time holding boost).

I have read positive reviews of the Fel-pro head gasket for these cars, but I'd buy the head gasket from Volvo. Tasca or Lisle are usually the cheapest online. NO anaerobic sealer, that is for the cam covers that have no other gasket. Head gasket is dry.

New head bolts is a good move. I have only done lightly oiled. Chase (if you want) and thoroughly clean out (no matter what) the bolt holes.

swedehast · Post by **swedehast** » 03 May 2018, 22:35

Thanks Eric

I don't know what turbo flutter feels like, although when we bought it used it did have a really pronounced odd stumble on mild accel around 2000 rpm, if hard acceleration just REALLY strong. I had volvo dealer perform a courtesy " software update " and never had the issue after that, but before the problem the thing certainly didn't have any boost problems, wow.

I'm just thinking the OEM head gasket complete metal sandwich the same dimensions as the head have better " expansion / contraction " properties ?

swedehast · Post by **swedehast** » 03 Jun 2018, 15:05

Good Day Abscate and Erik

I've been delayed with my rebuild because I had a rebuild on my daughters lexus transmission, darn that was an experience !

Anyway back to the S60. I've spent a little time looking around but haven't been able to find the sequence / torque specs on the head bolts,,,, for that matter the cam cover bolts too.

Anyway I'm cleaning threads today and would like to get the head back on so I feel like I've accomplished something.

This IS the B5254T4R5 engine

I have all new bolts ( for everything ) and the orig volvo head gasket. Also for the cam cover I did purchase the anaerobic sealant ( too )

Anyway thanks so much for pointing me in the right direction

2004 s60r misfire dead cylinder

Re: 2004 s60r misfire dead cylinder