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Front Wheel Bearing Issue on a '94 940 Turbo Wagon

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on all Volvo's "mid era" rear wheel drive Volvos.

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e36racer
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Front Wheel Bearing Issue on a '94 940 Turbo Wagon

Post by e36racer »

I was trying to replace the wheel studs in the 940, but when I removed the hub and started pounding out the studs, the outer race fell out of the bearing. Is this normal? I tried for about an hour to get it back in, but with no luck. What should I do?
I'm thinking, that I will just have to replace the wheel bearing itself, or do I have to buy the bearing and hub together?

Any help on the subject would be great.

Bryce

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billofdurham
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Post by billofdurham »

Welcome to Matthew's Volvo Site and apologies for the late reply but my computer doesn't want to play all the time.

You should not need a new hub unless you have damaged it in some way. Replace the bearing because it sounds to me as if it has come apart. A new bearing should be pre-packed with grease so there is very little to do.

Adjustment is easy. Use a new hub nut. Whilst rotating the hub tighten the nut until there is no axial play. Torque the nut to 74 ft/lbs (100nm) then turn the nut a further 45 degrees.

Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.

1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
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brick78
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Post by brick78 »

I was just installing a new bearing/hub on a '94 940 and when I was putting the new unit on the spindle, the outer race caught on the spindle's step and popped out just like it did for Bryce. I also cannot figure out how to get the race back in. Inside, I can see a ring of ball bearings in a carrier. However the o.d. of the race is a little too big to fit into the ring of balls. With all the grease in there, I cannot see what to do, but putting moderate force on the race using a socket does not get it to go in.

Ray
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lummert
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Post by lummert »

IPD may have instructions on their site for putting the bearing back in place. Those hub and bearing assemblies have been known to come apart in shipment.
1988 Volvo 760 Turbo Wagon

brick78
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Post by brick78 »

Thanks for the suggestion. I checked the IPD site but unfortunately didn't find anything.

Ray
'78 244 (R.I.P.)
'87 740 wagon (R.I.P.)
'92 940 sedan
'94 940 sedan
'94 940 wagon

jimmy57
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Post by jimmy57 »

The balls must be pushed a short distance outward from the center of hub. The race that fell out controls the balls with the ridge you will see on it. When you insert race the balls go into the inner race and the ridge on outer race stops you from inserting it. Push the balls outward and insert the outer race with the outer race on bottom, i.e., insert race from bottom up. Gravity will work with you to keep balls from being pushed into inner race by the ridge and having the ridge on outer race trapping race too far out. When you get one of these new there is a plastic sleeve keeping races in since they fall out easily.
When you install over spindle YOU MUST push it onto spindle with something that pushes on that outer facing race or this will happen as you install. The back race (as installed) isn't so aggravating as it has the seal keeping it in place. You can put a small amount of wheel bearing grease into the balls.

brick78
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Post by brick78 »

Thanks, I follow. It is hard to see what it going on in there with the grease. I will give it a try.

After the race popped out, I put that unit aside, and installed another (originally intended for the other side). I put it only partially on the spindle just to the point where the outer race caught on the spindle shoulder and it started moving outwards. Then I put the spindle nut on and tightened, which pushed inwards on the race as you describe. Next time, though, I think I will try to use the spindle nut socket and tap it with a rubber mallet - so that I can visually confirm the hub is fully seated before applying the nut.

I don't think it's a good idea to potentially mix different types of grease (the type applied by the factory is unknown and may not be compatible with what you add).
jimmy57 wrote: 14 May 2018, 06:47 The balls must be pushed a short distance outward from the center of hub. The race that fell out controls the balls with the ridge you will see on it. When you insert race the balls go into the inner race and the ridge on outer race stops you from inserting it. Push the balls outward and insert the outer race with the outer race on bottom, i.e., insert race from bottom up. Gravity will work with you to keep balls from being pushed into inner race by the ridge and having the ridge on outer race trapping race too far out. When you get one of these new there is a plastic sleeve keeping races in since they fall out easily.
When you install over spindle YOU MUST push it onto spindle with something that pushes on that outer facing race or this will happen as you install. The back race (as installed) isn't so aggravating as it has the seal keeping it in place. You can put a small amount of wheel bearing grease into the balls.
'78 244 (R.I.P.)
'87 740 wagon (R.I.P.)
'92 940 sedan
'94 940 sedan
'94 940 wagon

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Post by jimmy57 »

I have greased sealed bearings for decades and I have only seen no grease failures, never a failure from 10 -20 cc of high quality hgh temp wheel bearing grease. The only incompatibility I know of personally is to use low temp grease or petroleum jelly. That can make some wheel bearing greases go to an almost liquid viscosity and run away. Sealed bearings have an issue with the oil wicking away and leaving the more viscous part of the grease as a pasty substance that will not flow even when hot. Those hub bearings so little grease in them to begin with from manufacture.

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